Nothing wrong with that. Remoil (Remington brand oil) is a light oil, and very close to what I'm using. Of course, I grew up in a rural area outside of Houston, so....
Not sure he'll get it. One of my customers is Italian, and even after living here a while, he's easily confused by localisms. (like Redneck.. and guns) I'm sure if we went there, we'd be even MORE lost. That's the downside of English being an international language - most native English speakers have limited incentive to learn other languages. Even with my background, most of my French is a lost cause. (Canadian) I think what I'd say about oil for the razors is this. Don't worry about 'will it affect my skin?'. If the oil is light enough to easily travel down the shaft, it's refined enough that it's not going to be an issue to your skin. Don't attempt to use any sort of motor oils, transmission fluids, gear oil, etc. Just a plain 'light' machine oil. Gun oil is a machine oil. Any hardware store, and even grocery stores, will have a small bottle or can of oil available with a nozzle spout (Pointy thing). You should have one around your home, anyway. They work on hinges, latches (don't put it in your keyholes), bicycle chains, gears, and you can always try to reduce the squeak of the mouse. They also don't go bad, as long as they're capped. You _could_ use something like sesame oil, but the main problem with the natural oils is that they oxidize relatively rapidly - they rot. If you're constantly renewing them, then it's not as much of an issue (like for leather), but for something that sits in the dark... Popular brand names are '3 in 1 Oil', or 'Singer Sewing Machine oil' CLP and BreakFree are NOT the same thing. Common additional names are 'turbine oil' and even 'cutting board' oil. You can also pick up some at your local sporting goods store in the fishing section. Used for lubricating the reels. Mineral oil is found at drugstores, but the mineral oil I have is actually thicker than my machine oil. I cut it 50% with kerosene to use for sharpening. I know it sounds weird, but 50% kerosene/mineral oil mix works better than any of the other oils I've tried for floating swarf while lubricating.
Stolen from 'thehulltruth.com' - Light machine oils can be broken down into several grades (copied from the Lubriplate website): Machine Tool Oils: No. 0 is a light 5W type of oil for extremely high speed applications (up to 25,000 rpm) such as spindle lubrication and grinder arbor bearings. It also makes an excellent lamination oil for progressive stamping operations. No. 1 is a light 10W type of oil for textile spindles, grinder arbors and other types of bearings operating at high speeds. An excellent cold test makes this an ideal extreme low temperature hydraulic fluid. No. 2 is a 20 weight type oil for light general oil applications. Excellent for ring oiled bearings, wick feeds, bottle and airline oilers, oil cups, light circulating systems, enclosed chains, etc. No. 3 is a 30 weight oil for similar applications as No. 3-V, shown below, where a grade heavier oil is required. Also excellent wherever a combination way lubricant and an 80 gear oil are recommended. Contains tackiness additive. No. 3-V is a 20 weight oil specially designed for combination machine tool way lubrication and bearing lubrication. Excellent for ring oiled bearings, oil cups, circulating systems and Servo Controlled Machine Tools. Meets the majority of machine tool manufacturers' recommendations for general machine oil type lubrication. Contains a tackiness additive. Hope this helps. **I have seen several folks recommend Marvel Mystery oil or 3 in 1 oil. Marvel Mystery is approx. a 5 weight oil and 3 in 1 is approx. a 20 weight oil.
No weirder than one of the most common laxatives is basically antifreeze. Prestone - Ethylene Glycol. Miralax - Polyethylene Glycol
(It's continuing a joke from another thread, he defined redneck as "province boy", he probably gets it!)
No, no, no! Ethylene Glycol(CH2-OH)2 is toxic when ingested whereas Polyethylene Glycol (C2H4O)n+1H2O is not.
I like MgSO4 in relatively high concentration in water. Safe option. Antifreeze...so much more than just a breakfast drink. (joke)
I said _basically_. I didn't say they were identical. Let's see if I can get this right. Chemistry was a long time ago, but it was fun - well, until people complained about the fumes and booms. Ethylene Glycol is ethylene - C2H4, bonded to a glycol - C2H6O2, or the addition to H2O2. Polyethylene, in the most common state, simply takes the original C2H4 monomer and rebonds it multiple times. - (C2)n(H4)n+2On+1 It's still a CHO combination; it's simply how many repeats you get of the C2H4 molecule. (Interesting how nitrogen doesn't jump in there) Heck - dihydrogen monoxide kills thousands every year. "Remember, boys and girls. Natural and herbal doesn't mean good. Arsenic is natural, and Belladonna is an herb."
If it works great no need to fiddle with it, remember our parents and grandparents viewed these razors as a daily shaver, not a show piece. Like I wrote, if it needs attention give it attention, if it's smooth and works great you don't need to oil it up. We've become obsessed with vintage razors to the point it's over done IMO. Use it as it was meant to be used.
It's funny - people keep talking about 'our parents and grandparents'. My father and grandfather used electrics, as far as I know. I used the SuperSpeed since I got it - brand new - in the 80's. So I'm the one that viewed it as a daily shaver, and I still occasionally oiled it to protect the guts
This will work too: https://jet.com/product/detail/eec4...406127_pla-293385865423:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15