I recently bought a razor, and I think it is very aggressive. The blade sticks out around 1mm to each side and the blade gap is around 2mm. Is it an aggressive one? And what blade do I use with it? A sharp one, a dull one or a mild one?
I love sharp blades in any razor. Mild ones (for me that would be Personna Platinum Chrome for instance) work well in aggressive razors for me too. I would not shave with a dull blade. It's hard to judge aggressiveness from the blade gap alone ... the cap and safety bar geometry have a lot to do with it. -- Pitralon forever - Real pens have a nib - If it doesn't tick, it's not a watch.
Razor factors: Blade gap Head shape - fat or thin Head geometry - How the blade is held and at what angle (ie. Slant) Overall weight - swap handles and you'll see what I mean Handle length - changes center of gravity Open comb or closed bar makes no difference whatsoever People factors: How you hold the razor in your hand How you hold the razor against your face - riding the cap has tamed a lot of "aggressive" razors for a lot of people Angle used for the swipe - do you plow through or use the Gillette Slide? Amount of pressure used Skin sensitivity Blade factors: None - they're all sharp, that's why we buy them. Gotta ask your face what works for you, not us Lather factors: A poor lather can prevent the blade from a smooth glide, making the shave feel harsh, or what people will describe (blame) as an aggressive razor
I don't know Steve.... I've had an aggressive blade yelling mean things at me before. It hurt my feelings.
All razors are aggressive and will cause irritation and cuts until you dial in your technique with them. It will take a little while until you get decent shaves, then in 6 months to a year, you will really start to figure things out and get good long lasting shaves. After that it is just nuances and preferences and you can get good shaves from just about anything you pick up. Just take your time and pay attention to what works. Not that you asked, but don't overlook a good lather either.
Measuring a razor will tell you absolutely nothing, you have to shave with it to know how it shaves. Don't ever use a dull blade. Show us the razor.
FTFY All razors are the same... The interaction at skin level is identical, don't ever confuse that. Otherwise SR would be impossible, because it's "too aggressive." If a razor gives poor results, it is almost always because of an attack angle that is too high, or an excessive amount of pressure. Measuring a razor does have a point. We quantify aggressiveness precisely through measurements of gap, exposure, and curve. This data reveals the exposed blade and the range of shave angles possible. Aggressive razors have a wider angle window, and require precise control to stay on an ideal angle. Coupled with their usual large gap and exposure, this will cause irritation if pressure is moved toward the bar. This is why we say ride the cap, as it aligns the blade to slice rather than scrape. Mild razors are recommended for newbies because the smaller gap and exposure make them harder to seriously cut oneself upon. However, the lack of cutting efficiency in a mild razor can cause a new convert to apply pressure, this will also cause irritation. Once the "ride the cap" concept is mastered, all razors are fairly tame.
Shaving gives you the same information in less time, and in a more meaningful way. Excessive analysis offers no benefit, except in gathering fodder for a shaving forum.
@ GoldenHandTheJust Pour yourself a drink. Get comfortable Click the link in my signature below " Ride he Cap".
Using a tool without understanding the tool, or the fundamentals, renders the user's judgement irrelevant with regard to the efficacy of said tool. This is why you see guys with 300 razors that write about mediocre shaves with premium gear.