Wade & Butcher 7/8 (In Progress)

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by HolyRollah, Apr 14, 2015.

  1. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    I just started a new restoration this past weekend so I thought I'd share some images of the progress I make.

    I picked this blade up off ebay some time ago and I'm finally getting around to doing some work on it.
    Here is how the blade appeared in the auction photos...
    SafariScreenSnapz014.jpg
    Obviously the razor is in need of some new scales. The large washers were corroded through and crumbling.
    Some black rust (= pitting) which is worst around the pivot point. The blade itself is relatively free of the nasty stuff.
    SafariScreenSnapz015.jpg

    Here is the blade after removing the scales. The pivot hole needs to be reduced (worn oblong with age). Some black rust near the nose notch (common as this is where the closed blade meets the top of the scales—a potential moisture point)
    [​IMG]

    Here is the reverse side after one pass on the buffers....
    [​IMG]

    I'll be using black horn for the new scales. Other decisions on the wedge and types of washer TBD.
    [​IMG]

    For the scale design, I decided to try something 'non-standard'— more modern look versus the traditional shape seen in the first pics. I know...some claim 'heresy!'—but sometimes ya gotta try other designs to keep things interesting.
    I'll be making the scales following the 'A' angular pattern shown below. Beveled-edge. A hefty design that I think pairs well with the large bladed size...
    [​IMG]

    More to come.....:)
     
    Seabs, PatrickA51, Mustache and 2 others like this.
  2. Jayaruh

    Jayaruh The Cackalacky House Pet

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  3. Kilgore Trout

    Kilgore Trout The Smart Bunny

  4. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    More blade work…
    Worked both sides of the blade on the buffer, working my way through the compound grit scale (85, 180, 240, 400, 600, emery), to get to this point. There is still some more work to be done, particularly on the pitted tang area around the company name. A balancing act between minimizing the pitting and not compromising the legibility of the text…
    [​IMG]

    The blade itself cleaned up decently, and the next step will be more hand-sanding and polishing up to 8k.
    [​IMG]
    Off the buffers, starting to get some 'mirror-like' reflection. This will continue to increase after more polishing….
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    THE SCALES: I cut out the scale template and glued it to the horn blank. Rough cut them out on the bandsaw, adhered the two sides together with double-stick tape, and then refined the shape on the 4 x 24" bench sander. I carefully beveled the edges on both sides using my 1 x 30" belt sander. The face(s) have been sanded to 800grit at this point.
    [​IMG]

    Next step is to separate these two halves and thin down the thickness of each piece….
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Still plenty more work to do on both the blade and scales, but the razor is coming along!
    [​IMG]
     
    feeltheburn, 45auto, Drygulch and 2 others like this.
  5. ARGH

    ARGH Well-Known Member

    Looks really nice. I left my wade and butcher bow pitted for fear of ruining it with too much sanding and buffing. Now I am going to re-think that.
     
  6. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    I've had a number of blades that not only had severe pitting, but also extensive blade engraving. I try to find some type of 'balance' where the pitting is 'softened'—or excessive rust is removed—and the legibility of the engraving remains intact.
    It's a delicate dance, sometimes. Remove too much pitting (such as the tang above) and the maker's name goes away.

    Unfinished scales resting upon an unfinished blade....
    [​IMG]
     
    45auto likes this.
  7. ARGH

    ARGH Well-Known Member

    That looks very good. I like the squared ends of the scales.
     
    HolyRollah likes this.
  8. david of central florida

    david of central florida Rhubarb Rubber

    very very nice.
    is this one pre-mckinley, prior to 1890?
     
    HolyRollah likes this.
  9. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    Thanks. I may soften (round over) the outer edges slightly in the finishing stages but maintain the crispness on the bevel. We'll see how that goes....
    Yes. Tang states 'Sheffield' not 'Sheffield England'
     
  10. david of central florida

    david of central florida Rhubarb Rubber

    I learned that from you.
    see us new straight users are listening.
     
    45auto and HolyRollah like this.
  11. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    Just be wary...I can easily become a fount of misinformation as my sources can sometimes be unreliable. :);)
     
  12. david of central florida

    david of central florida Rhubarb Rubber

    so warned
    but I trust you, and there's a wealth of knowledgeable guys here to set us straight.
     
  13. Mustache

    Mustache Well-Known Member

    Awesome! You would happen to want another W&B to polish and do scales for would ya? ;)
     
    HolyRollah likes this.
  14. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    Busy hand-polishing the blade using polishing cloth with these grits: 1200, 2000, 4000, 5000, 8000…
    Meanwhile I've also been doing some thinning down of the scales. Currently the thickness is around .140" and ideally I'd like to get them to the .120" range. I rough-sanded them down on the belt sander, but now its a bit more delicate fine-tuning and hand-sanding them flat on the work top.
    scales_thinning.jpg
     
  15. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    Update:
    Due to a recent bout of stomach flu, my work schedule has suffered a bit of a set back….but back at it today!

    For the wedge, I'm using white cow bone.
    I began by cutting a square section and dry-fitting it on one half of the scales. With the blade held in place at the pivot point with a temp. bolt, I can sketch out the needed clearance required from the blade edge. This determines the extent of the wedge edge on the razor side. The bone needed to be thinned as well so this was done on the bench belt sander.
    For the front thickness of the wedge, I wanted somewhere in the .06 -.07" range for the outside edge to a .09-.1" inside edge—thus creating a proper wedge shape.
    I decided to line the bone wedge with brass (.010 x 2) so i had to figure the additional thickness of the brass into my final calculations.

    The bone wedge, rough cut to size and sanded to desired thickness. I used waterproof epoxy to glue the oversized brass to both sides of the bone.
    Clamped and allowed to dry. Next day, I trimmed the excess brass (shown below) to 'rough-out' and began to hand-file down the brass down to near the bone surface.
    Because I had pre-drilled the pivot pin location, I can temporarily micro-fasten the wedge to the scales and further trim down the wedge to near flush.

    wedge_brass_prep.jpg

    'Refined' wedge; shown the toe end. Final sanding, buffing and polishing will take place once the assembly is put together...
    wedge_brass.jpg

    SCALES:
    Further finish sanding (1200, 1500, 2500, 3k) and polish. I noticed a few small scuffs/scratches (see on the lower left section of front scale) that i'll need to backtrack down the grit scale and remove, but so far, the scales are coming along nicely.
    polish scales.jpg
     
    jamespasini69, Drygulch and Mustache like this.
  16. 45auto

    45auto Well-Known Member

    Seems to be coming along nicely
     
  17. Mustache

    Mustache Well-Known Member

    Very nice! I've been watching videos and think I'm about ready to get a set of stones and precut scales, then sand/shape them as needed.
     
  18. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    Finishing Up:
    Entering the home stretch with this razor so now to put it all together. Time to pin the scales and blade.
    I'm using domed brass washers on this one. The washers are a bit tarnished so usually I put a washer on a temporary brass pin and clamp both in the vice. I'll apply a dab of metal polish and buff them up with the Dremel. Sometimes this is easier than when they are in place of the razor scales.
    buff_washer.jpg

    Wedge End: The brass & bone wedge has been put in place. I'll temporarily secure the wedge between the two scale pieces with a micro faster nut & bolt and finish sanding & polishing the wedge so that it is completely flush (smooth transition) with the scale end. Once completed and the wedge fits well, I'll add a dab of epoxy to both sides of the wedge and pin the end (sorry for the blurry shot—I'm still learning the limitations of the iPhone camera)...
    pivot_end_done.jpg

    Pinning the pivot end: This can be challenging for a number of reasons. One, which I always dread, is the pivot end assembly.
    On this razor, the assembly sequence goes as follows:
    the peened end (capped end)> brass domed washer>stainless support washer> 1st scale half >inner brass thrust washer>blade>inner brass thrust washer>2nd scale half>stainless support washer>brass domed washer>rod end to be peened.
    When successful—after you've managed to drop a number of the assembly pieces countless times, it should look like this photo when peened and completed.
    pivot_aligment.jpg

    Although I checked for proper clearance earlier in the 'dry' assembly as well as when I initially measured to trim the wedge size, it is always a good feeling to see that not only is there adequate clearance (approximately 1/8" or so is what I try to shoot for) for the blade to swing and not hit the wedge, but that the blade is properly centered in the scales
    blade_clearnce.jpg

    I'll be taking some 'glamor' shots of this razor next, once I give it a final polish and clean up. More to come….
     
    Seabs, 45auto, Mustache and 2 others like this.
  19. Mustache

    Mustache Well-Known Member

    Beautiful! I know mine won't be this nice since I don't have proper tools(bench and vice and experience) but I hope to have mine scaled in the next week or so... I'm a structural mechanic by trade and am familiar with bucking rivets, just not this small. We usually used vice grips for rivets this small.
     
  20. 45auto

    45auto Well-Known Member

    Another beautiful shaver about to be christened,can wait until finished.
     

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