Bengall restore underway

Discussion in 'Razor Restoration' started by TheFiveO, Jul 24, 2017.

  1. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    Well as some of you friends know, I have been on an auction tear as of late. I won 10 blades last week and all of them are vintage. One I found was a gem I'd been wanting a lonnnnnng time, a vintage Bengall.

    I started its restoration today. I started at 220 level and went all the way up to 2000 grit. At that point I decided there was a level of old tarnish and pitting I am willing to live with.
    [​IMG]

    4 hours later...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I was able to save the horn scales to use as a template, but they are to far gone to put back on. I have never made scales before so I hope I don't foul that up. I think I am going to go with horn so this looks like it rolled off the 1800's to 1900's assembly line.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2017
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  2. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Nice job on the blade!
     
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  3. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    Thank you my friend
     
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  4. Billyfergie

    Billyfergie The Scottish Ninja

  5. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

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  6. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Personally, I would try to save the scales. I would sand them down a little more, especially towards the pivot pin area. When you've felt you have done enough, and there are still some cracks, you could coat the scales with several coats of Cyano Acetate. Then, after drying a day or two between coats, and letting the last coat dry for several days, sand and polish the scales. They should really surprise you. I've fixed several ugly Horn scales this way.
     
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  7. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    I was thinking the same thing, until I saw the end of the scales in the top picture. They appear to be pretty badly cracked.
     
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  8. TheFiveO

    TheFiveO Well-Known Member

    Since I have never used it before. Where do I find cyanoacrylate .... Err super glue, for restoring the scales? Seems like I would need quite a bit
     
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  9. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers


    I use the Gorilla Glue version, and it works well. It doesn't take as much as you think. Just let the stuff seep into the cracks, a little at a time.
    You can find the stuff in about any Supermarket, or hardware store.

    Just shape the ends with 180 grit sandpaper, dry, and clean the sandpaper often, until you get the shape you want. I use an old shirt to pat the sandpaper on, to clear the dust out of. I do this dry, because the horn will absorb water, slightly, and want to feather(at least that's what I call it), and need to be sanded again dry. I would rather dirty up an old shirt, that wait for it to dry. I do this all the way up to 1200-1500 grit. Finally, I wipe the scales with a wet cloth, and get the dust off it. Let it dry for a few hours, then apply the Cyano Acetate, one thin layer at a time, making sure it dries a day or two between layers. When all cracks and ridges are filled, thou can keep applying to areas that need them more, after the rest is filled in. Then start the wet sanding. I start at around 400, to smooth out the ridges of CA, and work my way up. It sands fast, so don't just zone out and sand away with the lower grits.

    I hope this helps.
     
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  10. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Super glue does make an excellent finish on wood (below). I didn't realize it worked on horn too. Thanks for the poop, Scott:)

    IMG_0568.JPG
     
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