Generally, most of our restoration projects go smoothly. This restoration thread is proof in the pudding. We all have our own routine for restoring an antique store SR find. There are times, however, when we encounter a "wonky" blade that can lead to a few oaths and prayers being recited. Chips, uneven blades, smiles, frowns, warps, twists, bad geometry, etc. are all in the problem blade category. What is your best advice for dealing with any or all of these problems? Personally I find the wonky blade the worst to deal with. Warps in the blade, no matter how small can create challenges when honing. What is your biggest restoration challenge and how do you deal with it?
Now A Days I Dont See these Blades as a Challenge So To Speak..Just a Pain in the Butt..The One thing I Have Learned about Blades that May Need Complex Gymnastics Like a Warped Blade on the Bevel Hone is that they Can & May Require the Same Gymnastics All through the Progression..In Other Words they Can Require Special Attention & the Utmost Focus to Keep the Bevel Pulled in Throughout the Progression..More or Less.. I Suppose the Most Challenging is a Blade that has Multiple Issues as You have Mentioned..Like it has Em All in One Go..It Happens..They Can be a Real Pain in the Butt.. Billy..
I view it, as with all restorations ... first the critical and finishing with the aesthetics. Hopefully not too over simplified. I also view restoration as therapy, so maybe I am crazy.
I do as well. A great form of relaxation. Still, some blades can cause me grief. I am dealing with a warped blade (ever so slight warp) on a Wostenholm razor. And I don't want to ruin it!!!!
I Guess the Tools You have Can make a Difference..I Use a Naniwa Chosera 1 K for Most of My Bevel Work..But..My Naniwa Super Stone 1 K which is Grit Rated 800 K is a Far Softer Stone than the Naniwa Chosera..The Naniwa 1 K Super Stone is a Fantastic Stone for Gymnastics with Problem Blades & Cutting a Deeper Bevel.. I Can Need the Dough as I Call it with the 1 K Naniwa Super Stone.. Billy..
I hate finding this,,,,,HATE IT !!!! This is a bent / mis-ground Tang..... ALWAYS check for it FIRST, that way you have choices as to how to make the scales or straighten the tang Yes I can see the blade also has a slight warp but honing problems like that are easier for me to work around Arghhhhhhh
1) Having to remove gunk, grit, rust and grime from delicate etching, or from gold or white wash. Not only is it VERY time consuming work but the odds of salvaging without residual damage is darn near impossible in many instances. 2) working with a poorly or over-honed wedge blade. Sometimes the geometry is so shot that the blade is better suited as a letter opener.
In the spirit of not being "Pedantic", I will say that the warped blades,, over-honed spines, hooked/frown blades, are talked about in the "What blade have you honed lately" thread. But, I always love seeing and talking about unusual examples like @gssixgun 's example, on independent threads. Then again, modifying a trashed blade would fall under the "Restoration" section. So, disregard my "Pedantic" ramblings. Good thread.
That's the worst I've seen. Did you try to fix it?? Have you ever thought about using a "Three pin fix" in a vise, for such a blade. "No guts, no glory".
The ones that get to me are the "never been used " razor that looks great. No spine wear, minor if any patina, I'm thinking wow this should be easy! Then you put it on the stone and yep it's bent. Hours later after working the spine to try and get things flat I just want to pitch it and move on. I mean the thing cost 10-15 bucks? I think back in the day razors were inspected at the factory and a certain amount were rejected. So Joe employee takes it home in his lunch box and a hundred years later it winds up for sale. The one I had in recent memory was a Robison Suredge that wore me out grinding the spine on a diamond plate to get some kind of thing working. Things finally worked out but for all the time......
There are a few "Fixes" The 3 Pin/Vise actually works pretty well on the older Sheffields they tend to have slightly softer Spines and Tangs I use Brass Pins myself I feel they are safer, than steel pins, but to each their own.. A bit of heat on the tang REALLY helps
I have seen this idea on YouTube and FB I'll be honest here take it for what it is worth ok, not saying right or wrong, good or bad it is your razor After honing more than 30,000 razors in the last 10 plus years I have NEVER ground down a spine on purpose or by accident, I haven't ever seen a razor that I haven't been able with some "Honing Gymnastics" to get it shave ready... I just have never seen a reason to Grind the spine out, there is always a way around it and it is usually easier
Well I'm a rookie and it's water under the bridge anyway. Just keep learning I figure. I appreciate your comments Glen!
No prob There are many different paths to sharp, if I can maybe help you get there along an easier one it makes me happy
That can be a restoration challenge for us guys up here in the Great White North. I generally have to buy mine from eBay...from the US of A.
