Cold process vs. hot process shave soaps

Discussion in 'Shave Soaps' started by Cowtown, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Cowtown

    Cowtown New Member

    Evening. I wanted to ask this question on this forum since it is run by soapers! I am a wannabe soaper who has read a ton of stuff on soap forums and asked a lot of redundant questions. Here's my questions about shave soaps and I'd like your honest opinion about the feasibility making a truly great shave soap that is not melt and pour based. Nothing against them, I use them myself. I'd just like to try my hand it and wanted some of the soapers takes. These all reference shave soaps.

    1. While it is commonly recognised as a safe and reliable practice to superfat at 5%, it's been my experience that any soft emollient oils or superfatted soaps tended toward lather that simply would not resist breakdown. Would it be better to superfat at 1-2% IF you payed CLOSE attention to weights of products and measured to .10oz. with a GOOD scale?

    2. Hot process or not to hot process? I like the idea that the soap will not have to age as long. I've also seen many soapers say the lather is usually a bit better. They also ad EO's at the end and don't have to use so much to survive the lye monster.

    3. Animal fats vs. veggie fats. Okay, for the most part put me down as someone who really likes the animal fat soaps. I like the dense, creamy lather that beef tallow and lard add to the soap. I know that a primary contributor to lather density and stability is stearic and that beef tallow is loaded with it. I sense that lard also adds some stability but is really good for it's lineolic(I think)properties. Yes?

    4. As for the lather, I like coconut oil. Any real difference between the 76 and 92 degree melting point oils? I have also seen a bit of controversy about the actual sap value of coconut oil and that many times this is what is leading to people having trouble with it drying their skin. The sap is wrong and it leaves the soap a bit lye heavy. Any ideas?

    5. An overall ratio of lather vs. base oils. Okay, fine. Lets say I wanted to make a tallow based shave soap with a close dense lather yet still wasn't too hard to lather up. I really don't have a strong idea of what a base should be % wise. I mean, would something that was say 65% tallow, 25% coconut, 5% cocoa butter(stability/conditioning yes?), 5% lard, do the trick? I know that this stuff is not really as simple as a magic formula and this would also lead to my original question of superfatting percentages. As is clear, I've chosen nothing but hard fats. I sense that soft oils of any kind don't have a place in a shave lather. We're not after true skin conditioning here but a stable, dense lather.

    Okay, is that enough questions for you?LOL I hope you can help me out. Especially with the hp stuff. That is pretty intimidating for a new soaper. Thanks.

  2. Queen of Blades

    Queen of Blades Mistress of Mischief Staff Member

    Moderator Supporting Vendor
    Hi Todd. Welcome to The Shave Den!

    I'm sorry but you seem to be a bit mis-informed. This forum is not run by soapers. We do have a few soapers on board at this time though, and I'm sure either Cyndi or Sue will be more than happy to answer your questions.

    Again, welcome! :happy088
  3. Cowtown

    Cowtown New Member

    Sorry for the mistake. I thought Mama Sue put up this forum.

  4. German3313

    German3313 New Member

    Todd I super fat my shave soap at 5%. I don't cater to vegans. If you want great lather you need beef tallow. I've made hot and cold process the main difference is cold process has less air pockets but takes 6 weeks to cure. I have been unable to tell the difference between 76 and 92 coconut oil so I buy based on cost. You may want to include some bentonite clay to make it slippery.

  5. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    Very old post. Haven't seen Todd since May of 2010.

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