Hi all. I have recently purchased my first vintage. A '75 black beauty. Recent refurb, and near immaculate. For three months I have been solely using my Muhle r89. I have really got to grips with technique and how to use it. I don't shave atg, so although I don't go searching for the ultimate bbs, I am more than happy with the results I get. So I purchase two new razors in quick succession. A Timor/weishi, and a black beauty. The Timor will sit looking pretty while I master the bb. I've been using it for a week, daily. I started with a Gillette silver blue, dial setting 3. I wasn't overly struck on the comfort or the final result. I popped my favourite yellow sharp edge blade and went again the next day. It was comfortable but not overly close. For the last couple of days I've upped it to 5 on the dial. The shave never seems overly comfortable, and I've had some razor burn, only minor, and some all round not great shaves. A little irritation and a kind of patchy result. Like I'm missing areas even after 3 passes. I aim to keep going so I can master the new tool, for a couple of weeks/ months, before I try my other new razor. I know swapping back and fourth after only a few days won't teach me anything. Am I just getting used to a new razor, thus a new technique to suit. What and where should the dial be. ( I have no idea). Do I need a sharper blade less exposure. Or a less sharp blade more exposure. Or after a few weeks, could it just be not the razor for me. ?? Any advice??
I use and enjoy both a Fat Boy and a Slim Adjustable on 5 usually with a Gillette 7 o'clock yellow or black and get great shaves. Although I don't own a Black Beauty adjustable, how you approached finding your sweet spot is how I found mine with an adjustable. Also assuming your prep, lather and technique are good. Your results are puzzling..............
No one here can tell you what will work. Trial and error with different blades and settings is the only way to find out what combination works best for you.
Cool. I'll have a play. I'm down to my last pack of favourite blades so going to dip back into the testers and see if any feel better now I'm a bit more experienced.
I guess all I can recommend is to keep trying different combinations to hopefully find one that will work for you.
I use a shaving journal for my SOTD's. This way you can track what settings work best and blades. Soaps and etc. I use my cellphone. Simple and easy.
It may seem like nonsense, but your favorite blade in the Muhle most likely will not be a good blade with the new BB. There is quite a difference in the two razors. It's good that you are looking at this patiently, and are willing to spend some time to figure out what will work. As others have said, you'll just need to try different blades until you hit on the right one. Don't rule out a blade that is absolutely horrid in your Muhle. I have a Fatip Piccolo that eluded me for several weeks. I probably went through a dozen different blades in it, and nothing worked well. Then out of desperation I dug a pack of Derby's out of my "junk" box, and I've never looked back. They work like a champ, every time. In fact, that Fatip loaded with a new Derby is my go to machine when I've not shaved for 3 days or more. So hang in there. You already know that the Silver Blue and the 7 OC Sharp Edge aren't good, so now it's time to dig out some Sharks, PolSilvers, Big Bens, or maybe even a Dorco! Best of luck in your search Jasio, and Happy Shaving!
Your doing it correctly, just keep up the trial and error, until you get your technique down for this razor and hit the sweet spot. Always keep in mind however that your face simply may not like this razor, only time, practice and patience will tell.
Correct! Adjustables are designed to handle a wide range of blades, but the one tht hits the sweet spot is wating for you. You just have to test away until you find the right one. Here is an example of one process to get there ... http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/de-blade-challenge-ii.28223/ Good fortune on your search.
Just an update after your guidance. Two things happened last night. I was going to rest the BB as I was getting nowhere fast. However, the good lady was about to bath, as I was getting in the shower, and she came in to ask if I had any more carts for the king of shaves plastic rubbish I used to use. I promptly informed her you will find no such thing in my shave den. So I handed her my Muhle with a new Derby in, gave her a quick lesson. And away she went. ( sorry to digress, but I wanted to say that without starting a new thread!!) So. My hand was forced into the BB again. I went back to a silver blue, set on 5. Totally new routine. I bowl lathered for the first time properly. Two passes with a touch up. Really good comfortable result. Totally new technique. Really happy. I promised I wasn't going to give up on the BB. but I was about to rest her for a while and go back to the Muhle to remind myself why I fell in love with shaving, as the recent shaves were so frustrating. But it's all good. Still a long way to go. But a really good result. Maybe doesn't sound much, to some, but for three weeks I've gone again and again every day and still not been happy. So big breakthrough. And the wife's legs are smooooth.
That Black Beauty is a fine razor good luck with it. Mine lasted 30 years before the adjustment broke, readjusting for Dollar Store blades. Walmart stopped selling Wilkinson Sword. Extra note : Don't over tighten when closing BB and once in a while a drop or two of gun oil or WD40 in moving parts after a cleaning keeps it working perfect.
Thank you. I did wonder if I should lubricate the moving parts some time. It's definitely a lovely looking piece. Once I get to grips fully with it, I'll be happy. It's just different I suppose from what I trained with.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned, but the head design of those razors is completely different. So the angle of the blade to your face is going to be slightly different. The angle that worked for your R89 will not work as well for your black beauty. If I could give you one piece of advice it would be to approach this new razor like you approached beginning DE shaving in the first place. That is, lay the head of the razor flat on your face, then slowly drop your hand until you feel the blade contacting your face. That is your angle. You may have to refine that, a bit shallower or a bit steeper, but it will be a small window. Go slow, shave in short strokes, just like when you first started, until you get that angle into muscle memory. No shaving on "autopilot". Pay attention to what you are doing at all times, particularly to the angle, and how the razor/blade feels on your face. All the rest of the advice given is good as well, i just thought I'd mention that. I shave with a huge variety of different razors, and the one thing I've learned doing that is that every razor is different, and you need to find the proper technique for every one of them, starting with the angle. All of them are not the same, and some of them will give you much more leeway re angle than others. MHO.
Again. Thank you for your advice. I'm slowly getting to grips with the whole angle thing. When I first set out with the black beauty I was on setting 3. Now I'm using 5. And I think just the setting alone changes the angle of attack. Maybe I'm wrong. But only by a degree or so.
I think that's possible, since you are altering blade gap. But it's not going to be much, I don't think. Most of it is going to be determined by the shape of the head, and the curvature the head and base plate puts on the blade. Changing the blade gap may have some effect on that curvature. But once you get used to the angle of the razor, you will develop a feel for how that razor shaves when the angle is right, and if you pay attention to the feel of the blade on your face, you'll keep that angle intuitively. This is why when I get a new razor I will shave with it for at least a week, maybe longer, until I get the "feel" down. Then, when I switch to something else and come back, it is easy to use that razor again because I know how it is supposed to feel when I have it right. This is the only way that I can shave with so many different razors and still get great shaves from them.
I'm sure you'll have no probs. I've only been using a de for 5 months or so, and the black beauty was my first step away from my trusted muhle r89. I'm sure much of my trouble was still learning the art, as much as razor itself. Loads better now. For me it's a lovely looking tool. Mine is a ' 75. Is yours an all metal construction. I think I'm right saying it should be.
