Kokak's Straight Razor journey...

Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by Kokak, Jul 23, 2017.

  1. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170723 Sun@1430
    note*

    Since I am going between Safety Razors and Straights, I decided to start a separate journal for my Straight Razor shaves. So here we are...
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
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  2. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170723 Sun@1700
    Straight Razor shave: 11

    Prep: Stirling Bergamot Lavender Pre-Shave Oil
    Shaving Soap: Razorock One X
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (7)
    Cleanup: Rockwell 6S (#4)
    Direction: WTG -WTG
    Splash: Stirling Orange Chill, Bergamot Lavender (+Menthol) and Sandalwood (+Menthol)
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    Decided to have another simple practice session tonight. Cheeks and neck only tonight. Working on using my left hand for the entire left side of my face. No nicks, cuts, irritation or weepers. The 2 passes are becoming easier. I think I will start to work on navigating my upper lip in the coming weeks. But for now, I am satisfied with my cheeks and neck.
    Cleanup with the Rockwell (plate #4 with Feather blade) went without issue. I need to take it slow and allow for my technique to develop.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2017
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  3. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170724 Mon@0700
    Straight Razor shave: 12

    Prep: Stirling Bergamot Lavender Pre-Shave Oil
    Shaving Soap: Captain's Choice Lime (Cream)
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Razor: Hibbard, Spencer & Bartlett Co. 'RATTLER' 9/16" (4)
    Cleanup: Rockwell 6S (#4)
    Direction: WTG -WTG
    Splash: Stirling Orange Chill, Bergamot Lavender (+Menthol) and Sandalwood (+Menthol)
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    Decided to try a new sample I have, Captain's Choice Lime and also work on using my left. I had been watching and reading a couple of posts about how to tackle shaving the upper lip/under the nose. So armed with this knowledge... I experimented.
    Funny how when you're holding a piece of razor sharp steel under your nose, thinking kind of goes out the window and fight or flight kicks in. This time I really concentrated and took my sweet time. I attacked the right side of my upper lip holding the razor in my left hand, reaching across my face, working only the upper inch of the blade (near the toe) and coming in horizontally across the lip. It worked! No irritation and no nicks. I then switched hands and did the same for the other side (right hand was much easier). My upper lip has never been this smooth. After this I then managed a "swooping" motion, with my right hand, under my nose to clear out the middle of my upper lip. I might just be getting the hang of this.
    BTW... Captain's Choice Lime worked out really nice. While I was not in love with the scent, its performance was not disappointing.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2017
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  4. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170724 Mon@2145
    Straight Razor shave: 13

    Prep: Stirling Unscented Pre-Shave Oil
    Shaving Soap: Captain's 45th Parallel
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (8)
    Cleanup: none
    Direction: WTG
    Splash: Fine Italian Citrus
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    No major growth. Just wanted to practice and the house was quiet, so I took advantage of the time and worked on shaving with my left hand for a full, single pass shave.
    I am definitely getting better at maneuvering the blade around my face using my left hand. Upper lip went well. The only issue I had was when I initially touched the blade to my right chick (holding it in my left hand) to begin the XTG attack on my upper lip and ouch. Nothing deep, I don't even think it broke the skin but I did see a light red line appear near the corner of my mouth. I think I came in at too great an angle and rested the edge on my face.
    Otherwise; I was irritation free.
    Funny, every time I have a small irritation during my straight razor shave, I tell myself I will give straight razor shaving a break for a few days. But then when I am standing next to my washbasin, I reach for my straight without thinking about it.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2017
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  5. Keithmax

    Keithmax Breeds Pet Rocks

    You are making very fast progress. Like you even when I tell myself I will use a DE I tend to reach for the straight razor anyway, it is very addictive.
     
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  6. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170725 Tue@2130
    Straight Razor shave: 14
    Rockwell shave: 41

    Prep: Chiseled Face Natural Pre-Shave Gel
    Shaving Soap: Pre de Provence No. 63
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Razor: Hayashi Diamond #77 13/16" (2)
    Cleanup: Rockwell #4 WTG - XTG - WTG
    Direction: WTG -WTG (cheeks)
    Splash: Fine Italian Citrus
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    I wanted to have a relaxing BBS shave tonight, so I dialed it back just a bit. My intention was to only use the DE (Rockwell) tonight, when I reach for my DE razor, I found one of my straights in my hand. I still dialed it back and only did a double pass on my cheeks with the straight. Followed by my typical 3 pass shave with my DE (loaded with a Feather blade).
    I worked on using my left hand. It is getting easier and I had to make a mental note to stop at just my cheeks.
    I have to say... my face is smooth.
    PdP No. 63 review below.

    PdP No. 63
    Ease to Lather: 8
    Lather: 9
    Slickness: 9
    Scent: 9
    Scent Strength: 8
    Post Shave Feel: 9

    This soap is just awesome. Ease to lather was awesome. Lather was thick and protective. Slickness was perfect. Scent was something I really enjoyed as well as its scent strength. Post shave feel was outstanding. This is definitely one of my favorite soaps, right up there with Tabac.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
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  7. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    Thanks...
    Yah, it seems like muscle memory is kicking in. LOL
     
  8. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170726 Wed@1530
    note*

    I have decided that starting today (Wed 7/26) through the end of August (Thu 7/31), I will use the same Shave Soap (PdP No. 63) and Pre-Shave Gel (Chiseled Face Natural). I will also use a Straight Razor (Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8") for my Cheeks and Neck and my Rockwell DE for my Upper Lip and Chin (Goatee) area. I will only use my right hand for the right side of my face (both Straight and DE razors) and my left hand for the left side.
    This should be an interesting little exercise. Especially since I will be receiving some new soaps tomorrow (Soap Commander) and have 2 new Straights arriving sometime in the next couple of weeks.
     
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  9. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170726 Wed@2030
    Straight Razor shave: 15
    Rockwell shave: 42

    Prep: Chiseled Face Natural Pre-Shave Gel
    Shaving Soap: Pre de Provence No. 63
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Straight Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (9) (cheeks)
    DE Razor: Rockwell #4 WTG - XTG - WTG (goatee)
    Direction: WTG -WTG (cheeks)
    Splash: Fine Italian Citrus
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    Another great shave on the books. Stropping as part of my setup routine is working out just fine. I was having issues when stropping right after applying my Pre-Shave. Hands were a little slippery and the blade would move around a little in my hand while traveling down the strop. But now I am stropping before I ever touching any water or Pre-Shave and my results are good. So far no nicks on my strop as well.
    My straight razor shave of my cheeks and neck went perfect. I switched between hands while working on either side of my face. No irritation, nicks or cuts. The Rockwell shave left my whole face felling BBS.
    This is my 9th shave with the Tanifuji and the blade is feeling great. This will also be a test to see how long I can keep the edge with just stropping.
     
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  10. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    I happened to trip over an ebay listing for what looks to be some Swedish steel that is in okay condition. So as my 1st restore project; I got it. I plan on learn how to refurbish a straight completely with this one...

    [​IMG]

    My plan is:
    • Take it apart
    • Either replacing the scales or just sanding them down and refinishing them
    • Polishing the blade
    • Putting it all back together
    • Then learn to hone it
    Any thoughts?
     
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  11. HolyRollah

    HolyRollah BaconLord

    It looks as though the scales are missing a hefty hunk of material on the wedge end (visible wedge) = time for new scales!
    Before doing any restoration, check the integrity of the edge to ensure the evident black spots of rust aren't hiding any flaws that would compromise the ability to get an edge from solid steel.
    No sense going to a lot of trouble and effort to find the thing wont hone properly...
     
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  12. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    Thanks Kevin.
    Makes total sense. I plan on picking up some scales from Superior Shave, along with the pinning hardware. Once I have the razor in hand and can verify the integrity of the blade.
    These pics are from the seller. Here is one with a closeup of the blade.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Nice find.

    The blade looks salvageable. The black rust might warrant a little work on the coarser stones, and an entirely new bevel. I've done many that looked like that, and it only takes a bit of patience. Just sand and polish the blade, then hone until you hit good steel.
     
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  14. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Check out johnloc 1 on eBay. He sells replacement scales as well.
    I cannot vouch for the scales, but I have had good luck with his razors.
     
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  15. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170727 Thu@1400
    note*

    I know I said I wouldn't change anything and it has only been 1 day. But these new Soap Commander shave soaps smell sooooo good. I have to try 1, 2 or 11 (I ordered 2 soaps and the 9 soap sampler). Maybe this will just have to start on the 1st of the month. Yah that's it; I will start this test on the 1st of the month.
    I have no self control... I couldn't even last a day.
    :angry032:
     
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  16. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170727 Thu@1945
    Straight Razor shave: 16
    Rockwell shave: 43

    Prep: Chiseled Face Natural Pre-Shave Gel
    Shaving Soap: Soap Commander Commitment (Sandalwood)
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Straight Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (10) (cheeks & neck)
    DE Razor: Rockwell #4 WTG - XTG - WTG (goatee)
    Direction: WTG -XTG - WTG (cheeks), WTG - ATG - WTG (neck)
    Splash: Fine Italian Citrus
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    So I went against everything I said I was going to do. I tried a new soap. I went from 2 passes with the straight to 3. I shaved my neck with my straight. But the results were GREAT! First, let me rate the soap.

    Soap Commander Commitment (Sandalwood)
    Price Point: 9
    Ease to Lather: 7
    Lather: 9
    Slickness: 7
    Scent:7
    Scent Strength: 6
    Post Shave Feel: 8

    Since I have read a lot of great reviews about Soap Commander I had to order a couple of tubs (along with a sampler pack of 9). When I opened the tub I was expecting a woody sandalwood scent. While there was definitely a slight wood scent, it wasn't the 'top note'. Now I am not saying it wasn't a pleasant scent. It's kind of like; walking into the kitchen late at night, reaching into the fridge for the milk but taking a swig of the orange juice instead. Not bad, just not what you were expecting. The one thing I liked was that the scent was there, but not in your face, over powering. This soap did take a bit of water to get it going and was harder than some of the other 'soft soaps' I have used. Still it was not too difficult to get it to lather and the lather was thick and provided good cushion. Using a straight razor, I want my soap to be as slick as possible. This soap was the perfect slickness for a DE razor (I cleaned up my goatee area with a DE) but a little less so for a straight. Being this was my 1st time using the soap, I will definitely be using it again for my next shave and rate it once more. All in all; it was a very good soap and well worth the money. I am looking forward to trying all the other samples, in the coming week.

    The shave. So I was watching a few YouTube videos the night before and armed with this false sens of confidence, decided to try a few of the techniques I saw. 1st was an XTG (across the grain) second pass on my cheeks. This actually went very well, even when using my left hand and had great DFS results (on both cheeks). Then I also did a ATG (against the grain) second pass on my neck (I wimped out at trying a XTG on my neck) with really good results. I usually do not do an ATG pass because it has never been comfortable for me. While not comfortable, it was a little better than when using a DE. All in all my shave was great. No nicks, cuts or irritation. My face was near BBS.
     
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  17. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170728 Fri@2130
    Straight Razor shave: 17
    Safety Razor shave: 45

    Prep: Stirling Bergamot Lavender Pre-Shave Oil
    Shaving Soap: Soap Commander Charisma (Melon and Citrus)
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Monster Plissoft (26 mm x 63 mm)
    Straight Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (11) WTG -XTG - WTG (cheeks, chin), WTG - WTG - WTG (neck)
    DE Razor: Gillette 109 WTG - XTG - WTG (upper lip)
    Splash: Stirling Orange Chill and Sandalwood (+Menthol)
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    I decided to try one of the Soap Commander samples. So I took the Charisma sample and pressed it into the bottom of my lather bowl. Whipped up a quick lather and had a great shave.

    Soap Commander Charisma (Melon and Citrus)
    Price Point: 9
    Ease to Lather: 8
    Lather: 9
    Slickness: 8
    Scent:8
    Scent Strength: 7
    Post Shave Feel: 8

    Soap Commander is really nice. The Charisma scent was very soothing. The perfect Friday night shave. I used a bit more water and really worked up a fantastic lather. I think I will get at least another 7 to 8 shaves out of this sample. Since it is in the bottom of my lather brush, I have no option but to continue to use it until all the sample is used up. Not a hardship if you ask me.
    I am get more and more comfortable with using a straight every day. I have no doubt that I will use a straight every day, maybe with the exception of those days I am rushed and don't have the proper amount of time to commit to a straight shave.
    I had a great 3 pass shave using both hands. I only avoided the upper lip this time and instead of an ATG 2nd pass on my neck, I opted for an additional WTG pass. Using my left hand is getting easier and the entire shave was comfortable with DFS results.
     
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  18. Kokak

    Kokak Well-Known Member

    20170729 Sat@2030
    Straight Razor shave: 18
    Safety Razor shave: 46

    Prep: Stirling Bergamot Lavender Pre-Shave Oil
    Shaving Soap: Soap Commander Charisma (Melon and Citrus)
    Shaving Bowl: Fine Lather Bowl
    Brush: RazorRock Chubby #506 Handle Extra Silvertip Badger (27.5 mm x 51 mm)
    Straight Razor: Tanifuji 'FAVORIT' 750 6/8" (12) WTG -XTG - WTG (cheeks, chin), WTG - WTG - WTG (neck)
    DE Razor: Gillette Goodwill #160 WTG - XTG (upper lip)
    Splash: Stirling Orange Chill, Bergamot Lavender (+Menthol) and Sandalwood (+Menthol)
    Balm: Nivea Sensitive Post Shave Balm
    Strop: Tony Miller 3" Fast Bridle Leather "Plain Chocolate" (15x Linen and 25x Leather)

    Another great, relaxing shave. I'm only 18 shaves in, with a straight, but this is feeling more and more natural. It seems my only problem area now is my upper lip. At this point my plan is to keep doing what I am doing and in a couple of weeks start working on the upper lip. Now, I am fully aware that by tomorrow, I may just start to work on the upper lip. But my plan is to wait for a couple of weeks till what I am doing is routine.
    Kevin did a fantastic job on the edge of this razor. With nothing more than just stropping the blade has managed to maintain its edge and comfort.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2017
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  19. Keithmax

    Keithmax Breeds Pet Rocks

    :happy096:
     
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  20. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    The straight is the best tool (imho) for the upper lip. I'm able to do a atg aka fools pass , which will make my upper lip as smooth as glasss. Most days I do a atg and xtg pass and get it close enough.
     
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