I do know a lot of the Japanese razors I own are marked as Swedish/Silver Steel. I don't read Japanese, but it sure feels hard, like the Swedish steel Japanese razors I've hone before. It just might be crazy hard "Japanese Steel", like you have said.
Aye..It Looks Japanese Steel to Me..I Don't find them Hard to Hone but they Do Require the Utmost Attention on the Hone..Japanese Steel like Some Vintage Stainless Steel Blades Can Slide Over the Hone without Cutting without Due Care.. Billy..
Translate "Slide over the Hone without Cutting, without due care", for me please. Sorry, I don't understand.
Well..Its Very Subtle..Henckels Friodur Stainless Solingen Blades & Some Very Hard Japanese Steel Blades Just Require More Attention is All..I Find that they Require Just a Wee Bit More Listening Skills Going through the Progression is All..They Can Literally Skate Over My Synthetics' Like Ice Unless I am On the Case.. Billy..
I have a nice looking Welsh slate (or that's what I assumed it was), purchased at a local flea market with some other stones a few years ago, but I have never used it for anything. I just lapped it, knocked down the edges, and threw it in a box. It kind of got scratched up since I last dug it out! It is very dark purple and makes a quick slurry. I need to read up on it, and see where I might try it in a progression. I didn't realize that there was a progression of Welsh slate(s). I just assumed mine was a generic finisher of some type.
This UK Seller Seems a Popular Vendor for a Welsh Slate Progression..Calling..Scott.. @DaltonGang .. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SET-2-NAT...hash=item2a7f17aa26:m:m3Cl71PTM4Z_gAQ0dQ2tEaA Billy..
I believe what you have is what they refer to as a Purple Llyn Melyynllyn Welsh slate. It is a mid level finisher. It's subjectively rated at 12000 grit. I lapped mine with 320 grit paper, and that seems to work very well. I don't slurry mine. I like the Welsh Slates.
Yes, I believe that is exactly what I have. I will lap it again to get rid of the scratches from bouncing about, and give it a try soon.
i have used it with oil.in the beginning i used water.don´t think there is a big difference in the end result
Norton brand honing oil here. It's a more highly refined grade of mineral oil. The mineral oil from the drug store is too thick for me. The Norton oil is about like unscented baby oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For honing my knives, and playing with a junk razor, I use a mix of 50/50 kerosene and mineral oil. If you don't like the odor of kerosene, get the ultra refined 'lamp oil' for about twice the price.
My wife's nose is too sensitive for anything that is petroleum based. I would have to do all my honing outside!
Norton honing oil is more or less scent free. It's food safe. If you can eat it I don't think the fumes would hurt anything. Just saying... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Let me elaborate. I use water/dish soap, on my hones, except the Arkie, which get oil. I slurry the 1k King stone, and the 3k? stone.
Just received my Dan’s SB Arkie last week.So I figured it time to see what a SB Edge feels like.So I honed a Double Duck Satin Edge on Sharpton Glass up to 12 K.Than I used the Arkie with Lanskey Natural Honing Oil .Did about 150 Laps .It added some keenness and smoothness to the edge . The shave was great BBS in two passes .I am gone to use it on my Japanese National Razor and see how it does with Japanese Steel .Very happy so far with the Dan’s SB .
I got a great shave off my black arkie yesterday. I have a couple low spots on the stone so I'll be lapping this weekend again. It's workable as is so it's just a matter of how anal I want to be.