Much as I love the look of pure wood grain, when there's nothing special about the wood to stand out (as in this case), then staining is a way to make it stand out a bit. As for the copper pipe, it'll be somewhat self-sterilizing now
No worries. I'm with you on natural wood, but I've found in sales, even though it get my craw; I have to proved what the hipsters desire. So sometimes I produce certain colors and styles that catches their eye and worst yet may only be bought as a decoration in their urbane loft or condo.
As for the copper ... it has very little of it exposed. The outside, inside and bottom are sealed with epoxy. So yes there is a fine line of it on top exposed; it's really not much worse than a copper cap on a Gillette.
Please be assured that I wasn't being negative in any way, nor was I trying to tell you what to do. Just sharing my thoughts, which is what we do on these forums. Generally speaking, the customer is a strange bird indeed, and they are always right, even when we don't agree!
@TobyC, I really took no negativity from your input; just your ideas, thoughts and opinions which I aways welcome. If people don't think consumers aren't strange; just look at the people wanting to buy plastic and sawdust furniture, then putting the real wood furniture out to the curb.
It's because people no longer learn how to fix anything. 'My table is scratched up', means 'take it to the dump and replace it'. They don't think it's worth paying someone 300-400 to resurface it commercially. That's true - but they also don't want to know how to fix it for $50 by themselves.
The oak chair in my living room I use the most; is a hand made craftsman or mission style rocker, made pre 20's. I bought it off craigslist for $35 and drove an hour and half to pick up. I worked on it about four months and it was probably going to the curb if I didn't grab it. I know it wasn't production due to small details not symmetrical. My boys would rather sleep on the floor or their clothes in boxes than to have junk furniture ... all real wood or nothing. Having good furniture doesn't cost a fortune when people will just about give away solid oak dressers.
I had one 21mm best badger knot left in stock and decided restore this one a Rubberset #153 ... (sorry for the bad picture) I removed the knot and bored it out (a very little bit) to accept the 21mm Best badger knot. A little polishing, epoxy and a lather to clean. Here it is ... All in its bakelite goodness ... the Rubberset #153 The fine line between the black and butterscotch is the original glue residue. It lathers up very nicely, like a nice big snowball. And as always ... More to come.
Another gorgeous result! I'm so impressed with your projects and thanks for sharing. Those brushes have to be some of my favorite looking diys ive seen.
My Maggard order came in and my son was asking how difficult would to be to restore an old Surrey or VDH brush. ..... I took it as a challenge. With the hollow shedding boar knot removed, cleaned and bored out; I weighted and installed a 24mm synthetic horse knot after the handled was polished back to a better than new luster with only very minor imperfections (just touch too much epoxy). High ho Greenie rides again! And as always ... More to come.
I saw this brush and thought, that would make a massively cool shaving brush. Yes, that's a big Rubberset stenciling brush 28-30mm. After removing the top pins and knot; I polished the metal and set in a Maggard's 28mm Timberwolf synthetic knot. The result is a HUGE Rubberset shaving brush! And as always ... More to come.
The continuing saga of the Hardright brush that turned in to three brushes ... Brush number two was the core of it. Sanded and gave it a receiver; I then soaked it in teak oil for a few days. Setting a 24mm synthetic horse hair knot it's ready for a new life. And as always ... More to come.
I started the restoration of a real vintage Rubberset, pre 1920's. before pic Prior to knot removal, I knew the ferule would move, but then it REALLY wanted to move. So I temporarily pinned it into place with ... pins. BTW the electrical tape is to protect the ferule while using the Dremel to remove the knot. The pins held it in place long enough for the epoxy to secure the ferule. I hand rolled the ferule on its lower edge (it was a little sharp). I finished sanding, inking, and then it took a nice long teak oil bath (48 hours). Here it is after drying 24 hours and the ferule polished. The ferule is in nice shape for being ~100 years old ... some patina and oxidation marks (character), but solid as a truck. set in two 2017 pennies as spacers and dropped in a Maggard's 20mm Tuxedo knot. Saved to lather for another 100 years of shaves. And as always ... More to come.
Enrico, you do very nice work. Thank you for showing us what you've done/are doing. I wish I was that talented.