Bakelite has a number of different fillers, including sawdust. With enough moisture, the ring might have -expanded-, and then contracted when drying. Enough of that, and it'd split - especially if the steel band was a firm fit (and/or glued in). Also, the steel would have a different expansion coefficient from the Bakelite (or a brass ring). I'm more surprised there aren't a LOT more broken Bakelite items around.
Well as for threaded ... even cracked it wouldn't budge. Wooden handle, from base to black bakelite = 1 7/8" or 48mm Bakelite = ~7/8" or 23mm Very comfortable in the hand.
You gave me what I asked for. I just added an approximate 51mm to get an approximate overall height. So, you never got the ferrule off? Harder to work the wood that way,... but ya done good!
I usually remove the ferrule, but being that it had already broke once and a chip popped; that both had to be repair, I said enough fooling around.
I decided to work on a sad little brush I received in a group ...... It was coated with a very thick coat of black tar like paint. I believe it's an early Diamond E brush and was produce between the 20's and 30's due to the "Sterilized" stamp looked like it was kind of an after thought, only impressed in to the paint and not in to the wood or painted on. I extracted the boar knot and the thick paint was fun to remove, but finally revealed a very rough knotted wood; why waste time sanding if your painting it. After much sanding, the knot receiver was re-enforced and blue India ink was applied prior to giving it an over night soak in teak oil. It was inked due to some of the black refused to come off so needed camouflage. More to come ...
I hit a little issue on previous brush restoration so gave it a rest and jumped on another instead. I receive an Ever Ready 300N in group of brushes I bought a few weeks back and decided to restore with a Maggard's Angel synthetic (that's what I call it). Bad before pic (sorry) I really like the shape of the 300N, but they are a real pain to prep. With a little work I bored it out to take a 24mm and weighted the handle. Even though the knot is only a 24mm it looks more like a 26mm, it looks and feels beautiful. And as always ... More to come.
Thank you; the picture is brighter than it should be (poor lighting), but the knot is actually more boar colored. I thought it matched the base better.
A while back I pick up a couple Pre 1920's brushes ... a Mayd-Well and a Heldtite Well after removing their old knot,stengthening them, and setting new 18 mm Finest badger knots; they're finished. They still have their original finish. And as always ... more to come!
An Erskine I picked off Ebay ... made a deal with seller, due to I wasn't sure if I could repair it. I taped the top and bottom to protect it while removing the knot and to prevent the crack from traveling further. I removed the bottom, knot and removed the plaster from inside. To stabilize the crack and add weight; BB's with epoxy were put inside. I removed the tape off the bottom and set an even line to sand (~ 1/8 of an inch). I replaced the tape (insurance) and sanded down to set line past the existing crack. I traced out a circle on to sheet copper and cut it out. After sanding the copper smooth (on the side to be epoxied), I epoxied and clamped it for ~12 hours. This time took a little time (~ an hour); I filed the excess copper from its edge and sanded it to its final shape, then polished it. I'm not sure if I'll bore it out larger, but have a few synthetic to choose from. And as always ... more to come.
