My visit to Mastro Livi in Perugia, Umbria, Italy April 2008

On our recent trip to Italy we had decided on staying on an “Agriturismo”, living on a farm. It was a wonderful place in Umbria. Located just outside Gubbio, less than an hour away from Perugia.

We had spent a few days visiting places near and far; Assisi (The church of St Francesco), Florence and Pisa with its leaning tower and just driving in the mountains to enjoy the views. We had eaten pizza, panini, mozzarella, gelato (wonderful Italian icecream), procciutto and had just so many espressos and cappucinos one could just take. Not to forget the wonderful Italian wines, we found some nice Umbrian wines, and I love Valpolicella so I had a glass or two of those too.

Before we left I had told my wife about “a place where they make straight razors” nearby and thought little about it, I did print out directions from Google maps and brought with me, but I was still a bit hesitant.

My wife asked me early in the week about the “razor place” and I replied that we maybe could go by it later. Before the trip to Florece and Pisa we decided we could go and see about the razors the day after that trip. I did emphasize that the razors weren’t exactly cheap and told her that they start @ €300. Well, she still thought we could go and have a look, even more so after I had told her that I had “been assigned” to take some photos of the workshop on an internet forum; “Well, then you can’t come home and tell them you never went there, how would that look?”.

So it was finally decided, we went up early, had a nice breakfast (Italian bread, proccuitto, cheese and an espresso!) The road to Perugia offers the most amazing views of the Umbrian landscape. Large parts of the road runs along the ridge of the mountains and you can cerainly understad why there is a village with the name “Belvedere” (=Nice view) there. There is also the extremely quaint notion of “working girls” sitting beside the road, and quite obviously offering their services, sometimes.

Anyhow, as we got closer to Perugia there was a traffic jam, Italian style! Cars everywhere, and the stripes on the road indicating lanes mean little to these people. Half an heartattack later we reached our exit and navigated the industrial area behind an old man that indicated he intended to turn at every crossing, which he eventually did, 5 streets after he had started blinking and just before the one we were going to.

It hadn’t been easy to enter the address into the GPS, as Google maps and the internet site address said Via Scienza, while the GPS called the street Via della Scienza, probably the same thing to someone that knows the language, but it had made it hard for us to find it in the GPS navigator. But at last we stood outside Mastro Livi’s workshop!

It was a small shop, and behind it a workshop the same size. We went in and were met by an old lady and an old gentleman. I started to ask for “razors” and was very soon aware that this would be very interesting as they didn’t speak any english. We quite soon established that it was razors I was looking fo and she pointed to the large display behind me, I don’t really know how I had failed to see it as it took up most of the shop and it was filled with razors of different sizes and materials. Damascus steel, carbon steel, olive, mother of pearl, ebony, ivory... easy to say, I had come to straight razor heaven!

After a few minutes the lady went to the phone and made a call, and proclaimed “Arriva”, so I guessed that someone that could speak english would soon arrive. While we were waiting she was showing me different razors and we had a very nice conversation that none of us understood.

After a while someone did arrive, Mastro Livi himself! Unfortunately he doesn’t speak a lot of english either, but we communicated through some words, pointing and nodding, this was really an awesome experience! He asked me where I came from and I explained “Svezia” (Sweden)!

I tried to explain that I had heard about him through internet forums and mentioned that I’m a member at “The Shave Den” and “Straight Razor Place” and then I recalled Lynn and mentioned his name and his face shone up! He showed me the contents of the display with great enthusiasm!

He explained to me which ones that would be the greatest shavers. All through this I had a smile on my face, my wife told me later. After I had decided on the razor I wanted to aquire, not so much from how it looked but from how I percieved Mastro Livi's explanation on how good a shaver it would be, he kept on explaining and showing me his work, it is safe to say that this gentleman loves his work!

At some point I asked if it was ok to take some photos and was told it was ok so I started shooting. I also engaged my wife to take some photos.

After the transaction was completed and Mastro Livi had inscribed my name in my new razor and it had been polished and stropped, I was invited into the workshop. Here Mastro Livi started showing the different phases of making a razor. He showed me a huge chunk of damascus he was currently working on in the forge.

I was guided though the different parts of the workshop and all over there were razors in different stages of completion, this was truly awesome! He explained to me that the worksop was small, and he got dust everywhere, but as I understood it he is moving to a bigger workshop next year, something he seemed to look forward to.

We finished the visit with my wife taking a photo of me and the Mastro. We had been at the workshop for over an hour and had enjoyed the hospitality of the Mastro and his companions in the workshop and the time seemed to stand still.

I guess you can tell from my story that I had a very good time, and I felt like a small child in a toystore! And I now own a Mastro Livi Razor!


Some of the magnificent display, filled with razors!


Mastro Livi showing off a huge razor!


The Mastro is fully engaged in showing and explaining his razors!


Inscribing my name.


Stropping it, making it shave ready! (I hadn't shaved for 2 days before my visit.. so I knew for certain I would HAVE to use it the moment we got home to the cottage.)


Testing the edge!


The grand wooden sign in the shop!


The Mastro was a cheerfull gentleman!


On the wall in the shop he had some pictures of when, as he explained, had more hair!


Picture proof that my wife had to buy me out of the shop! (My card couldn't be read by the machine, so we had to use hers )


The sign outside the shop/workshop.


Heating a piece in the forge.


This is a massive chunk of Damasc!


The coal bed in the forge.


The pounding and beating of the piece is repeatedly interrupted for more heating.


The noises from the oven and beating are almost deafening and you feel the work in every fall of the hammer!


It's hot, noisy and a lot of dust, but still Mastro Livi's passion for his work is shown in every step of what he is doing.


The hardening oven.


One of the many machines; One of the sanding belts, there were several in the workshop!


Band saw and buffing!


Me (on a bad hair day ) and Mastro Livi.


Home at last, the razor on display and I'm getting ready for a shower and a shave!


The very first strokes!


My technique is far from perfected yet, but I guess you can fathom the concentration put into this shave

 

How wonderful! I have read & reread your post 3X's and marvel at the pictures....congratulations. How did he explain how/why certain razors would be better than others?

 

Now THAT is nothing short of awesome.

Thanks for the tour!!!!! :1respect

 

Congrats on that razor. Thanks for sharing. I have to get over there sometime!

Jordan

 

Very cool, Johan - very well written and some great pictures!
Oh, and a very nice razor, too! ::

 

This is by far the post I have ever read anywhere!!!!! Excellent writing

The pictures, the man himself and the shop all fantastic. Now we know why they are worth the price. Thanks to Johan and his lovely wife for this inside view into Mastro's world.


Raf

 

Way cool Johan !! Thanks for most of the pics !

 

:sihns011
What else can I say, I'm jealous...:signs154
Good choice in razors as well, although I'd be very tempted to ask about the price for the big one.

 

Nice cross over move. I do it that way for my neck!

Man what a trip!!!!

 

Thanks for the virtual tour -- your razor looks outstanding! :happy096 Can you provide some more specs on it?

Maybe my next overseas tour can be Italy? :signs002

 

Wow Johan!

This is great, thanks for sharing your vacations and visit to the Mastro's shop...The writing and photos are excellent, sounds like your trip was wonderful...

and one of the highlights bringing home some Livi goodies....I love your new brush and the Damascus razor looks superb :drool :drool.... I have one similar to yours and they are fantastic shavers indeed

Glad you had a great and safe trip Thanks again to you and your wife for sharing your vacation with us :happy088

 

VERY nicely done, Johan! An interesting read and great pics. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with us.

 

Strålande!
Väl skrivet och underhållande.. Mycket bra bilder...

*****
Splendid!
Well written and entertaining.. Many good pics..

 

What a great story and super pictures! Thanks for sharing. May it serve you with a lifetime of great shaves

 

Thank you so much for writing this Johan.
I followed every curve in the road to Mastro Livi's place. Tho I did hang around the working girls, I admit .
GREAT
pics and writing
Tom

 

:1respect Brilliant! I'm also very jealous. Thanks for all the marvelous pictures and great descriptions.

James.

 

Great description of a great experience! I imagine Italians honking their horns and waving their arms about in the traffic jam. :rofl The pics are a nice touch. It shows an artisan at work in his environment, doing what he enjoys. People know the Mastro Livi name but your post shows the humanity of a person most of us will never meet.