2017 will be the year that I give shaving with a straight razors a go. I have yet to start a search for my 1st razor & when I do, I will have some additional questions, but for today: How often will I need to strop the razor? How long would it take a newbie to strop a razor? How often would I need to send it off to be honed? How long is the typical turnaround & cost of honing? If you feel so inclined, please recommend an appropriate newbie stropping kit. Any additional information that you feel is appropriate would be greatly appreciated. As always, thank you for taking the time to reply.
Hello buddy I am a relative newbie too and I think the best place to start is Larry Andresson of Whipped Dog Razors if you are in the US or even out of it (his postal rates are the cheapest international I have ever had from the US). He is a real gent and very helpful. He buys old razors, hones them and sells them on as a sideline to his regular job.I have just received one of his sight unseen vintage razors and it is a lovely smooth shaver. His whole business is geared around newbie straight shavers and getting them started: a really nice bloke who comes with my (and others) highest recommendation. I would avoid ebay straight purchases (unless a well regarded seller ask here for good US ebayers)or cheap Chinese/ Pakistani blades.Larry will also sell you a stropping kit if you need one though I bought a paddle strop from a guy here in the UK. 1) Strop razor after every shave (or before next shave)between 20-40 back and forth passes using a light touch (countless technique vids on Youtube)I don't know if the guy I bought my paddle strop will ship to the US but he includes full instructions (will include a link). Paddle strops are far easier to use than a hanging strop for a newbie and if you cut the leather by ballsing up your passes and digging the blade in (easily done) you can just cut and glue another patch on. 2) No longer than anyone else if you take your time. I'd practice on a butter knife first though. I take my time so about 3-5 mins as a newbie for me. 3)Normally about every 6 months but incorrect technique from a newbie will dull blade faster so I reckon I will send mine off after 3 months possibly sooner. 4)Larry at Whipped Dog charges $22 and that is about the going rate here in the UK too in Sterling. Most will turn around razors in a few weeks. Some kind souls on here might offer to do it gratis though. There are few such guys on the UK forum I am on. www.whippeddog.com http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/top-quality-hand-carved-oak-horween-hide-and-canvas-paddle-strop-uk-made-paste/132022761855?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=38661&meid=548444936bf442d3a785330c13d9511f&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=131999221292 UK seller but lovely easy to use paddle strop: one side horween leather and the other canvas to bring up a slightly dull blade.
Since you are in the USA, I would suggest going with someone that hones locally(USA). Two resident "Honemeisters" @gssixgun @HolyRollah If you want a razor already to shave then http://www.whippeddog.com/products/find/straight-razors-1/page:2. Go for one of the sight unseen razors. I've heard good things about them and Whippeddog.
Thank you for all of this information. How long have you been straight razor shaving & how has your experience been?
Hi again I have only been using a straight (weekends only at mo) for about 6 weeks. I can get a smooth shave but still get razor burn occasionally but not as many nicks as I thought. Hardest thing is learning to manipulate the razor and fighting muscle memory to achieve a light touch (professional barbers used to be tested by trying to shave lather from a balloon without bursting it). Read this from Larry. I won't pretend it is not a steepish learning curve but it is nothing to be scared of. Keep a safety razor to hand for tidying up and start off just shaving your cheeks with the grain to get a feel for it and until you get confidence. http://www.whippeddog.com/app/webroot/userfiles/StraightRazorShaving_Manual(1).pdf Only bit of advice in that which does not sit well with me in that is his talking about a sything motion. For gawd's sake don't do that just gently move blade gently down face and don't even think about fancy sideways movements. That is something only very experienced shavers should attempt. I have half a mind to email him about that tbh.
Whipped Dog is where you start can start on the cheap, with a guaranteed good blade. I used one while learning. I've used @gssixgun (Glen) for honing services, he can be found at www.gemstarcustoms.com and is an official Supporting Vendor of TSD. @Drygulch strops are great, just PM him. He's a Supporting Vendor also. @matteob gave you a nice set of the standard answers, so I will second his ideas. For reference, I am proficient with traditional straights, and use a shavette daily, and really love the shaves from both. Straight razor shaving is more tedious than hard, and spending a short few months mastering DE and Schick Injector with skin stretches will set you up for success.
Scything motion is a correct way to use a straight, and yields the most efficient passes. It's what a three piece slant razor is emulating.
Maybe when I get a bit more advanced but I have read that moving a blade side to side when new is a recipe for disaster
Scything is not a side-to-side motion, and you're most correct. It's a technique that you'll either ease into or not. There are definitely several grip and stroke options that will work out just fine.
You will have to help me out on this one then maybe by PM as don't want to confuse the OP. Just found this elsewhere. My vote is for second option so you are right there Use the "Gillette Slide" as described in vintage shaving literature that came with some Gillette razors. Think of shaving an idealized cheek -- a flat vertical plane. The most straightforward way to shave is to hold the blade edge parallel to the floor and move it in a vertical direction. This is NOT the Gillette slide. The Gillette slide says to hold the razor just as before but to move it slightly sideways as you pull downward. Too much of this or too much pressure against the cheek and as the movie says "There Will Be Blood". The second way to achieve this is to hold the blade edge slightly askew from horizontal and shave in the usual vertical direction. In DE shaving this can be assisted by a special razor type called a "slant".
For "testing the water" a Whipped Dog Sight Unseen will be a well honed straight. I have two and while neither would win a beauty contest they are acceptable for a less expensive starter. Larry is great at communicating with his customers. Through email we discussed my newbie needs, he quickly shipped a balsa slab with red and green compound, a "Poor Man's strop" and a fully functional 100 year old straight. It's about the least expensive way to see if you want to put in the three months or so to really develop the skills to get a competent straight razor shave. His "Sight Unseen" idea means you won't see the razor on his webpage. He moves lots of them and he doesn't spend time restoring or photographing them. They are unbroken, may have hone wear, or scratches on the scales. They will be shave ready. For a nicer razor he does list (with photos) more expensive pieces. Another option if you have the spare coin - buy one from a member on our BST section. Peer review and recommendations above speak well for those that restore and hone vintage razors. Should you purchase off the bay or from an antique shop expect to have it professionally honed. Too many sellers out there claim shave ready without knowing what it means.
Just one more thing Larry will choose you something to request if you ask. I wanted a 5/8, round tip and I said I did not want a really scruffy and pitted blade. He duly obliged so it is not a total lottery. He offers full exchange, refund or price adjustment if you are not satisfied. I too think he is your best bet
^ This. Larry at whipped dog and Jonah shaw sell nice, already-honed razors. You could also buy a gold dollar straight razor set off eBay (they come with a razor, strop, and strop paste for around $10-$20, but they will need to be honed). You should strop every time before using your straight razor. It is advised to do around 25 laps on the linen side and 50 laps on the leather side. Depending on how often you shave and strop, you should only have to hone every 6 months. The turnaround time is a few weeks (2-3 usually). People often own at least 2 straight razors to get through the wait time.
That's my take, too. It has a pivoting motion. Picture a farmer in the fields working a scythe. There is some arc to the stroke - it doesn't have to be exaggerated. What I've read is it allows more efficient cutting of the hair and produces less wear on the blade as well. I'd second the idea of saving this until you get comfortable with angle and pressure and a confident stroke - it's easy to have too many variables to master at the beginning.
You have gotten some good advice here already. I strop before 30-50 laps, and after 10 laps, on each shave. My stropping would be about 3 minutes on each shave. I would suggest putting up a Want to Buy ad in the classifies, you might find a good kit from a member here for a good price. A scything cut is not a J-hook. J-hooks can be rather messy with a straight. A scything cut is holding the razor at about a 45 degree angle from vertical, and going straight up or down, with the spine about 2 spine widths from your face. This allows the blade to slice whiskers, rather than cut straight through. Its not as scary as it sounds, but does demand focus and a light touch. I was probably using a straight for 2 or 3 months before I tried it. That said, there are lots of ways to do it. I am at about 250 SR shaves, and prefer this method of shaving to any others.
A lot of good advice already given. Watch you tube videos on how to shave with a straight, by Lynn Abrams and Razor emporium. There are a number of good stripping videos as well. Since you're looking at the first of the year before starting; you have plenty of time to research and secure the razor and strop. Hang out here and ask questions. Do NOT buy a square (spike) tip for your first razor. This advice is coming from a guy that learns everything the hard way Oh, and welcome to the dark side
SRP provides a nice visual of the scything stroke. In their library they make a distinction between a scything stroke (more of a pivot with an arc in the stroke), and a guillotine stroke (which fits the description given by @Drygulch.) I guess when you are ready you can try them both. Here's the reference: http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Shaving_passes#The_scything_motion
Lots of good advice already so I will add my 2 KRW(Korean Won) You need to strop the razor before you shave and after you shave as directed above. Stropping after the shave is just to make sure the edge is dry and clean, it should take at most 1 minute. How long to strop? Not sure but start slow, it is not a race. I shave in the morning and I strop my razor in the evening when I am not in a hurry. One way to make stropping easier in the beginning is a paddle strop, Adam aka @Drygulch can hook you up. Get one that is 3" wide and preferable a two sided paddles strop. You can use one side for CrOx to help maintain the edge. It should not need honing very often but in the beginning you may 'roll' the edge while learning to strop and need to send it out. Stropping is not that hard, much easier than the shave. Some advice: The first time you shave with a SR you will be nervous, this means your handle will tremble no matter how you try. This trembling means you will likely cut yourself. For the first shave just shave your cheeks, the easiest part and finish with a DE. If you are in a hurry, put down the SR and step back. Pick up DE and shave with it. If the edge does not feel right or it is tugging, put down the SR step away and pick a DE and shave and finish the shave with the DE. If you may be interrupted mid shave by a spouse, girlfriend, child or pet.... put down the SR step away and pick a DE and shave and finish the shave with the DE. If it just doesn't feel right, you can't find the correct angle, anything... put down the SR step away and pick a DE and shave and finish the shave with the DE. Each shave just go as far as you can and finish with a DE. You find the each shave you go a little farther with SR. Use an empty shavette to build muscle memory and practice with your 'off' hand to try new angles. Welcome to the Dark Side
