Hi Guys, So it's been a few weeks since I've looked around the forums, and I feel like it's time to enter the other sub-forums. I've been doing some reading on DE razors and the like, and the one thing that always trips me up is that DE razors should not be used with pressure. I've been shaving with cart razors since I could start shaving, so this fact bewilders me quite a bit. I was wondering if any of you could give me some advice, or anecdotes on this technique of shaving without applying pressure. I have a hard time fathoming how one would even get a close shave by simply gliding the blade along the skin.
It works. You simply let the weight of the razor provide all of the down pressure. By doing this, the blade cuts only the whisker and you get no razor burn to your skin.
If you are using a blade that isn't sharp or smooth enough, or your angle isn't right, or even if you aren't using the right type of razor for your face, then this can seem like it isn't possible. I've been DE shaving for about 2 months now, and I just realized what it really felt like on Saturday. I started out with a Feather Popular, and it just doesn't have enough weight. Then I tried a different razor and I had my first comfortable ATG shave ever. I was using a 37c with a Personna Red, and for the first time everything lined up and the razor was cutting through the hair almost effortlessly without scraping against the skin. I'm still not at the point where I can make this work every single shave, but man it felt great.
Best of luck: it really isn't as bad as it seems! Most importantly remember not to give up if it doesn't work out perfectly first time: IMHO this is something that is worth putting the time and effort into.
Handle length is a personal thing. Some like 'em long and some like 'em short. It has no real influence on your shave. Except when you hold the handle by its tip (as some do). Then it might be of some difference. As for pressure: when you hold the razor, just hold it tight enough so it doesn't fall out of your hand. Not any tighter. (it ain't a hammer, you know... ). That way you reduce the pressure. On the down strokes I let the end of the handle rest on my pinkie to support the razor. Thumb and index finger are only used to keep the razor upright. Hope that you see what I mean... [EDIT] Adding a pic: [/EDIT]
So I've noticed a lot of people suggest With-The-Grain or X-The-Grain, no one says Against-The-Grain for shaving. Why is that? I hear ATG can cause razor burn more easily, but I never get razor burn with my cart and I do all 3 passes so I can that BBS feel for...a day ;_;
When I was starting, I was really gripping the razor. Now, anytime I think I may be holding it too tight, I turn my hand over. If the razor falls out of my hand, then I know I was holding it properly. If I can tip my hand upside down and am still holding the razor, I know I am holding it too tight (for me).
Don't do that with a straight though! Unless you're wearing safety shoes (with the steel tips and all).
I am aliiiiiiiiive! But man, I got stuff to talk about now...The pressure question is still a little up there. I was experimenting with different kinds of pressure this weekend. I didn't exert too much at any time, but sometimes I felt as if I was not applying enough because nothing was cutting. Then, I tried different angles because I read all about "the slant." It's awkward, because my first shave with a lot of hair went really smooth. Last night I had some 2-day stubble and it took forever. 6 passes in total Smh. Any advice on close shaves with hair that hasn't been growing for a week?
I think it helps to understand the design differences between the cart type razor, and the DE to understand what the "no pressure" thing is about. In the multi-blade cart, the first blade is intentionally somewhat dull. It isn't intended to cut the whisker off at the skin level. Its purpose is to "snag" the whisker, pull it slightly, and then the second (or third) blade actually does the cutting. The design is such that the whisker is finally cut off very slightly below the skin surface. If you examine the cart closely, you will notice that the blades aren't protruding from the head assembly, but rather are slightly recessed into it. (this is the best pic I have at the moment) Also, the head end of the razor is very light. If you did not apply some pressure to the cart, it would likely just float along on top of the soap & whiskers and you wouldn't cut anything at all. So, the design requires you to apply pressure. The DE is the polar opposite of this. When held properly, almost all DE razors exhibit a moderate amount of weight at the head end. You are using only one blade which is incredibly sharp, and is intended to cut the whisker off, not snag and pull it . Also, the DE blade protrudes a given amount from the head. Note the attached photo of a Fatip Piccolo w/a Derby Extra blade. (Never mind those tufts of hair. I loaned this to BigMark, and he shaved a Wookie with it...) So, pressing down on the DE has the effect of not only cutting the whisker, but of scraping off a layer of skin as well! Hence the admonitions about pressing down on the DE razor. The weight of the razor head alone is usually sufficient. Each DE razor is different. Each DE razor holds its blade at a different angle. (what I call "loaded blade angle".) The blade also protrudes from the head in differing amounts on different razors. So when you change from an Edwin Jagger DE89 to a vintage Gillette Super Speed you have a completely different animal in your hand. You are no longer playing against the New York Yankees, but now the Minnesota Twins. In order to be successful, you are going to have to develop new tactics. The changes will likely be subtle, but there will be changes. It's also likely that the blade that worked swimmingly well in the EJ, now sucks rocks in the Super Speed. The only way to find out what is best for you is to experiment, and learn from that. So hang in there. You are learning a completely new a way of shaving, and if you are like most of us you'll be quite happy, and will likely never look back. Best wishes, and Happy shaving to you Mr. Chrome!
Thanks, Bristle. Yeah, after my first DE shave, I said to myself "cartridge razors, no more." Not literally, but that was the basic thought. I may keep mine around for those stray hairs I miss, but whenever I need a shave, I plan on busting out the DE again. It'll take some practice and experimental situations, sure, but I assume sooner or later I'll have a good time. It actually wasn't that tough the first time, so I was surprised the 2nd time was such a challenge.
Back to handles- many are about 3" long, which lots of guys find comfortable. Longer handles are 3.5-4". Many women like those, but some guys do too, especially head-shavers. But this is something you just have to try for yourself & find out.
Excellent post, Mike! I'll just tack onto Mike's comments about the variation amongst razor head design and how it impacts the final shave. You'll hear the term, 'Blade Gap' often used to determine how aggressive or mild a particular razor might be. Blade gap is the amount of exposed blade relative to the razor head's angle. In theory, the greater the gap ,the greater the blade exposure (i.e. more blade on the face). The FaTip razor, shown in Mike's post above, has tremendous blade exposure, but is tempered by the relatively shallow geometry line (shave angle) coming off the razor's head. It is still considered a moderately aggressive shaver which requires little pressure to mow down whiskers. Taking it to the extreme, a razor can have not only have large blade exposure, but have enough gap and head angle slope to make it hyper-aggressive. With this type of razor, one would be wise to use VERY LITTLE pressure. When you know you're on thin ice, best to tread lightly. Two versions of the Mühle R41...tamer version on the right
