Smiley or straight?

Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by Jordan Smith, Jan 19, 2018.

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Smiley edge or straight edge?

  1. Smiley

    25.0%
  2. Straight

    8.3%
  3. You like and use both

    50.0%
  4. You’ve only used straight

    16.7%
  1. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member

    Hello my fellow shavers, I’m getting a custom razor made by the shaveSmith. I need to decide between a smiley and a straight. Can someone help me out with some pros and cons of both? It’s custom so it can maybe be a combination of both, straight towards the heel and then smiles a bit towards the toe. I feel, in theory, like a smiley is more versatile, but a straight covers more ground. What do you guys think? Or maybe link a past forum? Thanks guys!
     
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  2. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    Smiling blades take more skill to hone. I've honed many, and its all about feel. Watch some videos, by @gssixgun , and other Honemeisters. They can better articulate what is needed. I vary my pressure, in a rocking motion, for the Smiling blades. Once you've done a few, its a no-brainer.
     
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  3. TestDepth

    TestDepth Well-Known Member

    Love the Smiley!!!
    Love the Straight!!!
    No wrong choice. I would say if you have facial hair and want straight lines it is easier without a smile. If no facial hair (which I assume is the case) I really like how the smile fits in the hollow of my neck on the south to north pass. Just seems to work.
    Can’t go wrong either way.
    And of course we will need pictures!!!!
    Tom.
     
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  4. Keithmax

    Keithmax Breeds Pet Rocks

    I use both and I prefer large smiling razors. I find they make it easier to shave my neck, but I am good with straights edges too like @TestDepth . On the other hand I am with @DaltonGang , they are tricker to hone and maintain.

    Pictures are in order.

    What size and grind are you looking for?
     
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  5. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member


    So size and grind still unsure about. Since it is custom made I don’t want it to be a “beginners” razor. What ever is the best grinch and thickness that delivers the best shave is what I’ll go with. I want to work up to the custom razors excellence, not have the blade stoop in features to accommodate my poor shaving skills. So maybe something like a wedge or near wedge with 6/8 thickness or more.
     
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  6. Jim99

    Jim99 Gold Water Shaver

    A wedge blade is a much different feel than a hollow grind. Not better or worse, just different. There is no audible feedback from a wedge grind and it cuts silently.
     
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  7. Keithmax

    Keithmax Breeds Pet Rocks

    Here is a frustrating answer, it depends upon the person. I prefer thicker grinds, 1/4 or 1/2 on a bigger blade but also enjoy full hollows on 6/8 and smaller razors.

    Since you are new to straights razor shaving my recommendation is go with a 1/2 grind on a 6/8 or 7/8 razor, that puts you in the middle. Rounded our muted points and toes are also important in the early days, heck that is still important to me now. I will reduce the numbers of nicks versus spike and square points. Go with a flat blade or with a slight smile.
     
  8. PickledNorthern

    PickledNorthern Fabulous, the unicorn

    Unless you are talking about staying away from spikes, I am not any razor is a beginners razor.

    There really is no “best shave” until you know what type of blade you prefer, and some of that comes from experience with your face.

    -Do you wear a moustache, or do you need to shave your upper lip?

    -Does the growth of your beard allow you to just make up and down passes, or do you need to go sideways on your neck?

    -Do you enjoy audible feedback?

    -How heavy and or coarse is your beard?

    I have to shave every which way on my neck, so what has turned out to a favorite in terms of performance is a 6/8, 1/4 hollow that I had built only 50mm long, with a Spanish point. It makes all the little hard spots really easy to get to.

    I have a coarse beard, so most of my preferred razors are heavier grinds, but I have a SS full hollow that isn’t super flexy, and sings like a bird when it cuts whiskers. I love that razor too. It is a blast to use.


    I’ve only been at this a little over a year, but I still couldn’t tell you what blade style gives the best shave. Not sure there’s an answer. It’s like badger or boar, chocolate or vanilla.
     
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  9. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member


    Hey that’s good feedback, Jim! If it has more weight, wouldn’t it be a more effortless shave? I do like the sound of the hollow though. From what I’ve read wedges last longer, are a bit more difficult to chave with, and are more challenging to hone, but they also last longer since there is more metal!
     
  10. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member

    Hey thanks guys really great info! That a consideration I forgot to consider is the actual length of the blade. I think my favorite point is Spanish. I like to know and see exactly where the end of the cutting edge is. The razor I’m practicing with is a square. The only nics I’ve had is not being careful when setting up for a stroke and grazing my earlobes haha! That’s everyone’s first times right! Also this maker only uses carbon steel I think but I’ll see if he can use stainless for me though!
     
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  11. PickledNorthern

    PickledNorthern Fabulous, the unicorn

    Food for thought: Look at J.A.Henckels straight razors if you want SS. There are a million of them out there, and they are very affordable. I would try that before I would shell out extra for it on a custom.
     
  12. Keithmax

    Keithmax Breeds Pet Rocks

    I definitely have drawn some blood from ears too.

    Hollow grind or wedge, the razor will likely outlast all of us. If you like the sound a full hollow makes then go for it. Making a full hollow grind is much harder than a wedge or 1/4 grind. Check and see how many full hollows the artisan has made. I have both carbon steel and stainless steel blades, really can't tell the difference between them. Unless the artisan has allot of experience with stainless stick with what he is familiar with, carbon. Supposedly carbon blades are easier to hone but then I can't feel a difference between my carbon and stainless blades.

    If you are set on stainless the check out the Dovo Master's, I have one it is a fantastic razor. Just make sure you buy it from a vendor who hones it, the factory edge is marginal.
     
  13. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    Basically you’re hearing from seasoned str8 users that have tried a number of grinds and sizes My individual hairs aren’t that thick, but it’s full and grows quite fast. I’m also fully clean shaven.So I’ve found that. I personally like either a 5/8 -6/8 full or extra hollow, which tends to give me the closest shave. If I have a choice, I’ll go for the round tip, but with that said, the tip is the least of the things that I look for. I learned on a spike tip and for awhile, I found it grabbing my ears:)
     
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  14. Arnout

    Arnout Well-Known Member

    A full beard, certainly a grey one, profits from a heavy grind, a light beard will shave just as easy but with less nicks with a comfortably full hollow singing razor.
    But, a good preparation and some scything allow Sasquatch to shave with a softly grinded singing razor an you can trim downhairs with a full wedge.

    A point is for trimmimg, if you don't trim it serves to scratch, but it looks intriguing,..

    A smile makes it easier to shave without cutting but it takes a bit more practice to hone.

    Size, bigger is more impressive and more expensive. Kids love an 8/8 near wedge more than a 4/8 Singing,....

    Strapping up and down a BIG razor makes a good workout,....
     
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  15. Billyfergie

    Billyfergie The Scottish Ninja

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Most Vintage SRs have a Curvature or a Slight Smile..Even the Straightest Looking Square Points..These 2 Solingens of Mine are a Good Example..The Spine in Both these Razors has a Gentle Curve or Smile to Give a Subtle Curve on the Edge of the Blade..Some Spines are Straight but the Edge or Bevel Area Usually has a Natural Curve.. :)

    Its there to Make the Razor More Forgiving on the Face..A Current Dovo 4/8th for Example Pictured Above Has Not Got this Feature..The Edge is Straight as a Dye..These Dovo 4/8th SRs Can be Lethal to Shave with Due to this Straight Edge Design..Also..A Lot of Custom Razors Made Today have a Straight Edge Design with Zero Natural Curve..Some of Em are Lethal & its a Sign of a Poor Razor Design & Production in My Books...:D

    Billy..:chores016:
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
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  16. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member


    Great considerations! What do you think about a hollow but a greater width, that way it has the perks of a hollow but also some added weight. Or what if he just adds some metal on top of the spine but in a manner that it wouldn’t interfere with honing. Is are these ideas pretty abstract
     
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  17. gssixgun

    gssixgun At this point in time...

    Supporting Vendor
    simply put

    You are over thinking it, once you start using SR's you will gravitate toward the style that fits your face best
    That is the best part about them

    A SR is the most versatile shaving system there is, everything about it can be adjusted to fit your face, that is actually it's best attribute :p

    It can also make the learning curve a bit steeper for beginners because there are so many variables to adjust, you have to take the good with the bad :D
     
  18. Arnout

    Arnout Well-Known Member

    I don't think it has a lot to do with weight, rather with flexibility
    A wedge has no flex, it cuts hair, skin and zips,..
    A big singing razor can flex, from a coticule or jnat,... it will cut hair but bend somehow around the zip and follow the skin,... but if there is too much hair or if the the hair is too stubborn it will try to bend around the hairs as well, start cutting to high and pull instead of cutting.

    A big (wide) full hollow has more flex than a small full hollow, therefor the small one will go easier through a heavy beard.
     
  19. Billyfergie

    Billyfergie The Scottish Ninja

    [​IMG]
    As Glen Said..You Will Find What Suits You Via Shaving Experience with Em..A Lot of this Stuff is Purely Subjective or a Personal Judgement of Taste..Like Preferring a Blonde or a Brunette Bird..:happy088:

    Billy..:chores016:
     
  20. Jordan Smith

    Jordan Smith Member

    Then I will need to try different blades before I get one custom made then. It’s not as simple as I thought. Thanks for the massive input gentlemen.
     
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