What Straight Razor Have You Honed Lately????

The last hone for the day. This was a full restore(for me) and a full hone. I also blued the tang, like the Dubl Duck, because that's the was it originally was. I used one strip of tape, and progressed through the synthetics then through the Welsh Slate stones. Then the Chromium Oxide Strop, Linen strop, and the leather strop. This one surprised me, because it didn't look like much, from the start. When finished, it popped all hair it contacted. This is one seriously sharp razor, with a semi spiked tip. These kinds of tips are what usually get me, whenever I cut myself.


Razor- G.M.Mayer Blue Steel. Bone Scales. Solingen Germany

Before-




After:

 

honed this bad boy today.very troublesome blade. bought it because i was bord.the shoulders was grind down but there was many issues with this one. the heel had little contact and also the toe.tourqing and pushing did not work so ended up grinding the spine down on my atoma,but could not fix the heel issue. i might try to modify it som day. shoulder less and spike or spanish point or something like that.had one like this before that was much easier to hone.did not had this issues.think i paid 8$ shipping inclusive.so not a big deal.

 

I have a couple of Gold Dollar blades, and from what I remember, I had to grind down the blade stabilizer at the heel, on both, just so I could sharpen the heel. Too much metal. After that, they took a very keen edge. They use very good steel, but usually the blades need modification.
I think I might get one, and grind it into a wicked looking Spike Tip, and eliminate the heel stabilizer.

 

Today I but two bökers and a gold dollar to the stones. I have been playing with a new LV cotti as well as an Artaunon and thuri slurry. The bevels were all previously set, but upon shave testing they were not good enough. I ran the edges on the side of my Shapton gs 4K and then honed them on the 4K until they were ready to move on. Next was the cotti under running water using half strokes and a few edge trailing strokes until the razor stuck. Then I moved to the Artaunon with a yellow green thuri slurry, again using half strokes for about 4 sets of 15 keeping the stone well hydrated. Then I finished on the Artaunon under running water using only x strokes until the razor stuck. Strop on leather and WOW!

 

Lucky for me that I have only one hone setup, and have had to learn with that only. If I had many differing setups, it might confuse me. I know my stones are capable of getting a blade as sharp as it can possibly get, so if it's not sharp enough, it's my fault. I then alter my technique, to fit the blade. I've only had a couple of blades with bad steel.

 

My French Arminius Bosmambrun Thiers 6/8th Arived Today..Its a Minter NOS Factory Fresh Job..Canny Be Bad at that..I Will Hone Her Up Later..

Billy..

 

Mister NOS do it again

 

Billy..

 

That is one gorgeous razor!

 

Yeah..Its a Lovey Example of a Froggie SR..Made in Theirs France..Ooh La La..:rah:

Billy..

 

I worked on this one, for a while. It was a partial restore but had a lot more corrosion than it looked like, at first. After sanding and buffing, I could see the minor corrosion on the heel end was more than I thought, under the 60x loupe. I had to grind the heel down, to get past the corrosion on the bevel area. It created a very tiny smile. Which I didn't mind. Overall, the honing went well, and it took a top notch edge, all the way down the blade. I do like the way these old Wade & Butchers hone up, sharp, sharp, sharp. I also like the way the Welsh Slate stones work with the older metal. All in all, I think I came out lucky, again. Two razors for $15.96 delivered.

Before:


After:

 

Second Hone for the day. This one cost more than I normally would pay, but at $12.62 delivered, it was hard to pass on.
This one had a lot of tarnish, all over it, but, overall was pretty sound. Except for a cracked scale, that came repaired. I just buffed the entire razor down, and found the edge was already pretty sharp. It only took about 20 minutes on the progression honing process to finish. I did my usual progression, from bevel to finishing on the Welsh Slate Stones. I just stropped it the usual way, and it took a very sharp, hair popping edge, down the entire blade. Somewhat boring hone, zero issues, and it went fast.

W.H.Morley & Sons. Clover Brand Razor. Barbers Notch.

 

The last hone for the day is a "John Pritzlaff Hdwr", which I've never heard of. I liked the scales. It has an owl on one side, and a pinecone on the other, along with some nice scroll work. It had deep rust on the blade, Tang, and Spine. Other than that, It was an easy hone, without issues. The blade was straight as an arrow, and took a very sharp edge. I did the usual progression through the Welsh Slate Stones, then through the strops. This should give a nice shave.

Razor- John Pritzlaff Hardware Co.

 

Just Honed My French Arminius Bosmambrun Thiers 6/8th that Arrived Today..It Took a Bit of Metal Removal on the 1 K Stone & this is Very Hard Steel Like Some of those Commie SRs..

It Took a Killer Bad Boy Edge..

Billy..

 

Russian Pakita 1963


I got this razor at the end of last year. I have been putting off honing it, as this blade has a smile. I was not too keen on recking it. Tonight was the night.

I started on my Naniwa 1k. With a single piece of tape. It was making way to large of a bevel. I went straight to 3 pieces. This gave me a more reasonable size. There were lots of tiny pits to remove. I spent a solid hour on the 1k.

It took a few minutes and several sharpie tests to get the stroke down. Once I figured it out it was smooth sailing thru my 8k.

As I am loving going natural, I finished it on my Thuri. It is popping my fine arm hairs. I will test it out Thursday.

Tom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

I've honed this one before but never got a comfortable shave from it. It had some very small chips in the blade towards the heel. When I looked at the blade under the microscope, it was apparent I didn't fully remove them the last time. Using a Norton 4K I should have realized it might take a little longer to set the bevel and remove the chips. Noob mistake. After killing the edge, I started with 40 circles each side, followed by a dozen x strokes. I had to repeat this process six times to get a straight edge. Finished with some very light x strokes on the 8k and five on the Swaty. A few dozen x strokes on the 1 micron lapping film and a stropping session. Test shave was silly smooth. The fools pass was the proof in the pudding. No pulling whatsoever; all over bbs. Nailed it

 

My NOS Keen Cutter 11/16th Simmons Hardware Co St Louis USA Arrived Today from the States..Its in Factory Fresh Condition..Its a Minter..I Will Hone Her Up Tonight or in the Morning for My Next Shave..This is a 1920s Model I Reckon..

Billy..

 

Aye Once You Dial In the 1 Micron Film as a Finisher for a Given Type of Steel in Terms of Strokes its as Smooth as Butter..I Don't Fall into the Camp of Harsh Edges on a High Grit Synthetic Finisher..I Kind of Equate it to a Hair Trigger on a Firearm..You Can have a Hair Trigger Sharp Edge that is Less Forgiving or an Edge that Allows for more Pressure & More Forgiving..Its All Down to Getting to Know the Hone & the Steel You are Using..To Me the Progression is More Important than the Finisher Any Roads..

Billy..

 

Did some touch ups

Zulu Grey: Dovo Bismarck and PRC Chimera

I am still trying to learn this stone and the first shave Chimera shows I got lucky or I am making progress

Naniwa 12k followed by Shapton Glass 16k: Dovo Master's and Dewe Dick

Shaved with the Master's and was smooth and very sharp. These are my usual finishing stones and I get consistent smooth and sharp edges. I know there is the theory that synthetics give you a sharp but harsh edge but my experience with the Shapton Glass 16k is smooth edges while still sharp.

Full disclosure I do use a CrOx strop after the finishing stones.

 

Rare find ...

Goedecke & Cie. Solingen 5/8 Spanish head half hollow SEALORD in Ivory tang & scales with original box 1908

even if the blade is not marked, materials and quality proof that straight razor and box belong together...





Greetings from Solingen

Rainer