Tom @twhite in his infinite generosity put another ferrule in my den. Twenty seven millimeters inside diameter should give grand clearance for a big new Omega #49 knot. Those give the closest to NOS look. Dose anyone have a original knot and a reknotted brush to compare side by side?
Is there a gap between the rubber inside the ferrule and the top of the aluminium handle? When I drill, will the drill bit pass through the rubber into a space or does the rubber fill the entire cavity? Am I drilling into my aluminium handle? The heck with this - rubber strap wrench has now been ordered.
That is what I've done. When drilling the rubber/bristles came away in small flakes (bits) with medium pressure on the drill. There then came a point where there were no more bits coming out, even if I increased the pressure on the drill. I wasn't sure if the rubber play sits directly on top of the handle or if there is a gap between the bottom of the plug and the handle. I don't suppose it matters, because no-one would see, but I hope I haven't damaged the handle. I ordered two strap wrenches for £5. They should be here by Tuesday, so I think I will wait to try and remove the ferrule with the wrenches.
Thank you very much for reassuring me. I have just checked back, #691, and seen the picture, of the hollow handle. I completely didn't see it before - duh. I was sure the handle was solid. I'm so pleased. I'm going to the shed; I might be some time!
I have a polishing question I'd like to ask please. I bought some micro mesh sanding cloths: grades 400, 600, 800, 1200 and some micro mesh pads 1500 - 12000. I started to sand my 400 handle with the 400 grit micro mesh; all it seemed to be doing was very, very slowly removing the dirt, so I dropped to a piece of 180 grit sand paper that I had knocking about. That cleaned it quickly, obviously there were scratches so I went over it with the 400 micro mesh to remove them. There are casting pits in the Aluminium, they look like patches of big pin pricks. Should I drop back to the 180 grit to try and get these out or stick with the much slower 400 grit? Does it matter if they're left? Do they show at the end, when the handle is all shiny? During the process of moving up through the grades: how long should it take with each grade of micro mesh before moving to the next? I've never done this before. Thanks for your help.
As they are cast. You will have those pits to some degree. You will not be able to remove them. They will be throughout the handle. As for moving to the next grit. That depends on your polishing pressure and speed. Do not try to rush it. You should be able to see when you remove the marks from your last grit. When you get to the super fine grits past scratches will really show. You can go back a grit to clean them up if you wish. It is your brush. Make it as polished as you want. Have fun Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tried penetrating oil, boiling the whole unit, freezing the whole thing then dipping the ferrule in hot water... Strap Wrenches For The Win! Since this a vintage handle I don't think I'll try for mirror polish. It's OK if it looks less shiny than a B-400!
The Tuxedo knot arrived for my B-400 by Tom brush. It looks great. Can't wait to try it out tomorrow.
That is one sharp looking knot. They could make any handle look like a million. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh flipping heck, that is stunning. I hope it's a great brush because I want one. Thanks for posting.
I have found out over the years, with working on cars, the only penetrating oil that works well, is Kroil. I use this with a little needle squeeze bottle. http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/13...rW2TP24GtkYYgxypzN175RhvKyUR7gRJjcaAsG98P8HAQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZSY5XQ/?tag=thshde-20 Greg W.
