I got this razor for $5 this weekend. I was thinking of trying to do a restoration myself. I have never tried one before mind you. There is rust on the blade but the edge looks pretty good. So if I screw it up I will not be upset at all. I have only honed a few wedge blades for my old SE razors. They have turned out very good. One blade I have over 10 shaves and it is still extremely comfortable to shave with. So what say you? I only plan on full disassembly to clean all the rust and a light polish to make it look presentable. Then if that comes out ok get some new scales. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I Done this Old Cast Steel Southern & Richardson Sheffield Over the Weekend...It had No Rust Mind or Serious Heavy Pitting...That Tang has a Lot of Rust on You're SR with that Enclosed Design...I Used a Lot of Elbow Grease with a Green Brill Type Pad & Alloy Auto Sol & a Rag...It Took Me a While..I Decided Not to Use a Sand Paper Progression as it Can Take a Long Time to Get the Scratches Out..Maybe I Should have cause the Road I Took was Sore on the Old Fingers as I was at it for Hours.. Billy..
I just removed the scales. They were super brittle. One broke on the pivot end. That pivot pin was really bent. I will take the blade to work tomorrow and drill out the pins on the pearl inlays. I do not have a small enough drill at home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm curios to see how bad the rust is, under the pearl. I've seen them for sale, and broken from rust, under the pearl. It's very thin steel. Be very careful.
Thanks for the tip. I will take extreme care. I hope it is not too bad, but I will find out in the morning. It looks like somebody cleaned the rust on the spine at one point. I do not want to crack that mother of pearl. I will take my time drilling and removing that. How does the vinegar work on removing the rust? Any remedies for neutralizing the rust? I am by no means trying to get a show room finish, just no rust and a shave ready tool. I am not afraid of a bunch of work on it. That is how I learn. Tom
I've used Evaporust to take the rust off some blades. It is supposed to be safe on just about anything. I've even soaked the razors with the scales on, over night. No harm done. It will darken the metal, a little. Some light buffing takes it out though.
I am No Expert on the Subject...It Looks as if those Scales have Rotted & the Unstable Gasses have Eaten into that Blade & Tang.. That Whole Tang & that Pearl as You Call it will Probably be Contaminated with so Called Celluloid Rot from the Scales..There has Plenty Been Written about Celluloid Rot if You Google it.. Billy..
Well, then It won't be my first exercise in futility. I will need to check out Cell rot on line. Thanks for another tip. I figure it will be some practice for my next one. I can see this becoming another bad habit.
The Advice I Got from a Very Knowledgeable Person that Restores SRs was to Stay Clear of SRs that Showed Indicators of Celluloid Rot & he Kindly Explained to me what it Was & the Reasons to Avoid it.. Billy..
Use utmost care in removing the pearloid tang covers. Most attempts usually leave these covers in pieces as they are extremely fragile— and thats without the present rust.
Soak them overnight in Evaporust, first. Hopefully that should loosten the rust up, from underneath. Or you could soak overnight in penetrating oil.
On the photo showing the back, non etched side of the blade I see quite deep pitting across the spine. Won't keep you from getting an edge, but you'd have to go deep to remove the pits. Fortunate that the show side looks good. The etch seems clear and deep. If you are OK with it showing it's age then enjoy the process!
Yes I do not care about it showing pitting. I mainly want to learn how to restore them myself. As I am a cheap bastard. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you haven't yet, find Glen's @gssixgun 's Youtube videos. He has selfishly shared so much of the restoration process in full color with sound.
Will do. My main objective right now is to unpin the pearly things without breaking them. One step at a time for this project. I will be viewing plenty of vids for sure. I will post my progress for prosperity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is one stunning razor. Now I know what to do if I cannot save mine. Thanks so much for the link. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So i removed the MOP from the tang. They broke into many pieces, as to be expected. I was able to glue one back together. I will use the one good one as a template. The rust under them was not as bad as I expected. It came off with WD 40 and some scotchbrite. My dad had some Walnut he gave me. I will make the scales from that. Tonight I will be concentrating on removing pits and the likes. This is pretty fun stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here is the blade with 320. I don't want to over do it. I will leave as is. I removed the majority of the pits from the spine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I cut the blanks out today. I need to plane them down quite a bit. They are a bit over 3/16" i need to get the scales close to 1/8 and the tang down to 3/32 before I start sanding on them. I also went by Hobby Lobby to get some brass rod. I found these bead thingies that I will use as the washers. Just to spiffy it up some. Question on the tang inserts. If I bond them on, will I need to pin also? I may do both anyways just for looks. Input will be greatly appreciated. As this is my first Rodeo Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
