I haven't looked at this thread in several days, and I'm happy to see the tang area isn't rusted badly. Excellent progress.
Are you going to epoxy the tang covers? Also eyelets can add strength when pinning wood scales. It may be possible to use the eyelets under your fancy washers you have picked out. I am guessing that they are hollow on the under side.
http://www.rings-things.com/Product...fted-Findings-Brass-Eyelet-3-32-1-8-Long.html For those that do not know what eyelets are. This is just a random site from a Google search. They are the correct diameter of eyelets for pinning.
Yes they are hollow. I was planning on hammering them flat. If that does not work, i will get the eyelets. Now a question on the eyelets. Do you just use them as a shouldered bushing and have them a bit shorter than the thickness of your scales? Thank you for the help. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just finished up 3 hours of sanding up my scales. I went to 10 micon paper. Next up is finishing the tang. I decided to go with only epoxy. I need to let it cure a few more hours. Then sand the tang up. Once that is done, I will give the blade some more 320 and call it good. I have decided to go with Boiled Linseed Oil for the finish. We will see how it goes over the next fee days. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Here they are all sanded. I just gave them a good rubbing with Turpentine. I will let that dry for a few hours. Then start applying the Linseed Oil. I will try 3 coats to start with. I need to make a Black plastic wedge tomorrow. With any motivation I may have it all assembled by Tuesday. Then the fun begins. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was motivated this morning. Out in the garage at a little after 6. It is 100 deg out now. I wanted to do something before it got too hot. All i need now is the wedge and assemble. Then on to honing. This has been a very fun project so far. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks good, no looks great! One thought about the linseed oil finish. I'd be a bit concerned with the tang covers eventually letting moisture get in the wood. I'd saturate the heck out of the tang covers and hit with a hair dryer to help get in there as much as possible. The linseed oil should plasticize and make a decent moisture barrier, but you should be prepared to refresh that finish often, and be very diligent to dry the razor thourghly after use. The epoxy should have impregnated the back of the tang covers during the bonding, and keep any moisture in the wood from corroding the tang underneath, hopefully.
Good call. I will Take care when shaving to dry very well. Yes I buttered both the tang and tang scales prior to bonding. Thank you for the tips. Tom Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Essentially you trim them to more or less the thickness of the scales. They push against your brass thrust washers directly as well as pull the scales in tight to tang. They will also help to prevent the pins from expanding and splitting your scale by creating a wedge.
Thanks. I looked at my scales this morning and was wondering. Can I still use CA to seal the scales being I used Linseed Oil. If not no big deal. I will know for next time. Thanks guys for all the help so far. Also I want to make a steel block to use for setting the pins. How deep do you make the holes for the pins. I hope I am using the correct lingo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wonderful Job Tom..I have Never Honed a Boker SR but some SRs are a Lot Softer Steel that those Hard Steel SE Hollow Ground Blades You are used to Honing..Worth Bearing that in Mind.. Billy..