What Straight Razor Have You Honed Lately????

I just finished my shave with this freshly honed Eagle Cutlery 1/4 hollow I would guess. It is pre 1891 and made by a guy named G.F. Creutzberg out of Philadelphia 1875-1943. This is my first American steel. I did some basic sanding on the blade to remove the rust. I then rubbed the scales down with some polish. Now the fun part

The blade had a smile across the entire edge. I also noticed that there is a curve along the spine. With the toe pulling up even more about 3/8 back. I new this was going to be a real challenge, using only lapping film.

I started off by taking my 15 micron and doing sets of the circular strokes. I wanted to try and get some of the smile out. I worked on this for over an hour. I then gave it probably 100 X strokes. While doing these strokes I could feel the blade on one side rest on the heal and toe. This was a stable stroke. When flipping over to the other side it was only riding on the center. This caused me great problems in keeping it even. I used one finger on ether end of the blade. Toe and heal. This helped stabilize my stroke. I am not sure if that is the proper thing to do in this situation.

Anyhow after lots of lapping on the 15 I had a bevel set the best I could. The edge is pretty straight. But looking on the face of the blade. The bevel follows the bend of the blade. It popped hair all along the edge.

I then moved on to refining the edge, using the 12,9,5,3&1. Giving 100 laps of each. Making sure not to apply any pressure. I did use my fingers to stabilize the blade. I finished with a pasted strop and my regular strop.

Not expecting to get a stellar shave from this blade considering my inexperience at honing. I was very pleased when the blade slid right thru my whiskers. There was no tugging or pulling. That is when I pulled my skin in the correct direction.

This was a very challenging hone job for me. I hope this blade holds an edge. Only time will tell.


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Gold Dollar 66. $4.15 free shipping.
It has the usual Gold Dollar issues, except for a burr at the front of the blade, that I filed down. It was not on the cutting edge.
The only issues I've seen with the ones I have is that the scales are plastic, and leave everything to be desired. I've seen uglier Vintage razor scales, these are just utilitarian. But, they serve their purpose, they protect the blade. The other issue I have seen on these is the Blade Stabilizers are too thick(reference near the heel). They get in the way of honing. Nothing that a couple minutes with a Dremel won't cure.
The heel end of the blades are thick, and need extra time and pressure to set a bevel.
Back to this razor.
I had to straighten out the scales, they were a little warped. Hot water and a Popsicle stick did the trick.
Next, I had to tighten up the blade, in the scales. There was no resistance at first. Free spinner.. Two minute fix with a Ball Peen Hammer. Nice and tight now.
I took a long time on the stones, due to the thickness of material near the heel edge.
I went with a 1k to set the bevel, which took a while. I need a more aggressive stone for stubborn blades like this.
3k-8k synthetic stone. Then 8k,12k,15k, Welsh Slate Stones.
A few laps with CroX on a strop, then approx 100 strokes on some leather, and it is more than ready for a shave. I ran it over my cheek ATG, without soap, and dry. No tugging or pain, somewhat smooth. took the hair clean off, and left the area smooth as silk. I wouldn't do it on the chin though.

Behold: Little Black Gold Dollar 66.

 

Second hone of the day.. This one doesn't belong to me, but was lent to me, to hone, so he can compare my skills to some honed razors he has.
This is a Japanese Frameback Frankenstein looking razor. It has minimal honing wear on the blade. Apparently the original owner either put a new blade in it, or soldered up the original, to secure it, or to try and make it look or feel like a hollow ground razor. You be the judge.
It has been named "Cape Fear" the Japanese Rat Rod of straights.
I attempted to hone it, as I have done with most other blades. But, there was a problem. Now I know why there was little hone wear on the blade. The blade is bowed in the middle, which necessitated an awkward honing technique. while honing one side, I had to apply pressure in the middle of the blade, the other side needed pressure on the toe and heel, at differing times, so as to not overhone the center. Very different. Very awkward. Very slow. I went through the usual progression {1k, 3k-8k synthetic}, 8k 12k 15k Welsh slates. I had to apply slight pressure when using all stones, which I usually don't like to do.
In the end, It turned out very sharp, and about as sharp as any razor I have honed. I will give it a shave later.

CAPE FEAR

 

This was one of my first wild caught razors. Elliot & Co #223. Used 1, 3, and 5k Naniwia stones, then tried out my new Arkansas soft, hard, and black. My face didn't cooperate with a shave, so will try again tonight.

 

@Drygulch , I have razors that give me problems too.
In looking at your pics, it looks like the bevel is a little "wonky". Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me. Is the blade sitting flat on the hones? Both sides?

 

No, it's not flat on the hones, and the hones aren't flat on the bench either. The tip and heel have a wider bevel than the middle on this side, and it's the opposite on the back side. Bevel meets all the way across, and it treetops hair. I did a couple of strokes on my face with the razor, and realized my skin was too much of a mess for a good shave, due to dermatitis. When my face flares up, it can be painful and bloody to shave. I will shave as soon as my face clears up, and see how the shave goes.

 

Ok, that explains it. Sorry to hear.

 

Third Pain in the Neck razor honed today. It started with having to tighten the blade in the scales. No big deal. next was the hour it took getting as much rust and tarnish from the entire blade, tang and jimp. Top to bottom. The easiest thing was getting 70 years of crud from between the scales. 15 minute warm water soak with Palmolive dish soap, and a tooth brush. It took well over an hour to set the bevel. I felt like it wasnt cutting at all with the 1k. I don't know what this razor is made of, but dang, I don't want another like that. I progressed from 1k, 3k-8k, then 8k 12k 15k Welsh stones. It took a very sharp edge, but I might possibly have to touch it up on the heel and toe, if I don't like the way it shaves. If it's to be done, I don't look forward to it.
I need a big beer.

Japanese "CANON 東京"

 

Did some touch ups today using a Shapton ceramic 12k then Shapton glass 16k then CrOx and finally FeO3. Hitting the stones today: Rasurpur Western grind kamisori, Dovo Master's, Feon 172, Mastro Livi and a Hart Steel 6/8.

 

Nice. I just love my 2 Dovo straights.


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I retouched it up today, after a good night's sleep. I killed the edge and rehoned it. Once again, dang hard steel. But, I was able to correct the issues, not easily though. It's got a fine edge on it now. I gave it a shave, and it performed perfectly. Zero issues. On to the next problem child razor.

 

Best edge I have done to date. W. M. Elliot & Co razor, 1, 3, and 5k Naniwia, then Soft, Hard, and Black Arkansas. Finished with chromium oxide, hemp linen, and Chromexcel horse. Took about 2.5 hours overall, but a nice smooth shave.

 

I bought a Naniwa 12K last night and honed or touched up 7 razors. This morning I shaved with the Faultless this morning and got the best shave ever with this razor. I'm going to like this 12K!

Ready for the week.

 

My Minter than Mint French NOS Pradat Brun Theirs 6/8th Frame Back Just Arrived from France..I have Been Waiting a Long Time for One to Show Up..I Just Honed it Up on a Naniwa Super Stone progression...Never Honed a Frame Back Before & this One had Never Been Honed..Feels Weird on the Hone & the French Steel is Very Hard..

This SR is Factory Fresh..It Seems to have Taken a Wicked Edge..It will All Come out in the Washing when I Test Shave it..

Billy..

 

And what is your finished edge...jnats or synthetic?

 

Synthetic..After I Come off the 12 K Naniwa I Usually Use 1 Micron Chro/Ox Lapping Film On a Cushion..Paper Underneath the Film..It Leaves a Very Smooth Edge as a Finisher..

Billy..

 

Boker "Pearl"

I got home today and found my new Naniwa's waiting for me. I promptly unpackaged them. The first thing I did was lap them all flat. Starting with the 12k. I used 320 wet dry taped to one of my Aluminum flats. The 12k needed about 10 minutes.

Moving on to the 8k. Following the same procedure. It needed 20 minutes to flatten. Mind you I was applying little to no pressure on all of these steps.

Next came the 3k. This was surprisingly flat. As I only had to spend 5 minutes on it.

The 1k needed a good 10 minutes. Finishing up with the 220. There was 10 more minutes.

Not wanting all my work to go to waste. I decided to re-hone my Boker. I chose this due to the fact that it has the straightest edge.

Starting with the 1k, I reset the bevel. Right off the bat I could tell that I much prefer stones to lapping film. The feel of the blade on the stone, gave me instant feedback. using the circular stroke. I gave it a good 30 laps with just a touch of pressure. Then 30 more X strokes. I then went back to 30 circular with no pressure and 30 X strokes.

Looking at the bevel thru my loop, revealed a beautiful even wear pattern on the blade. I set my 3k up and gave it 30 circular and 30X strokes. Checking my progress with my loop. 90% of the previous stone work was gone. I did notice that on my forward stroke. The tip of the blade was not getting quite enough pressure. On my return stroke the heel was a bit light.

Trying to correct this I gave the blade 15 more X strokes. Checking with my loop again. I found all to be good. I also checked it with my thumb all the way across the edge. It felt very even on sharpness. Taking a stroke on my arm revealed I have a nice sharp edge going.

On to 8k. I gave the blade 25X strokes just to see how fast it was cutting. To my delight I figured another 25 would do the trick. Sure enough. Checking with the loop revealed an edge that was more polished than my 3 micron.

Loading up the 12k I chose to do 15X strokes on it. Again I checked and was stunned how freaking polished looking the edge is. It is better than my 1micron finish.

I will go and give it a good stropping as soon as I am done rambling. Test shave here I come.

Tom


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I took the time to hone this Russian Beauty. I have to say, @Billyfergie was not exaggerating. It took a very long time to hone this sucker. I don't want to do this again, for a while. This is the hardest steel I've come across, and the blade had issues. There wasn't even an attempt by the Russian factory to put an edge on it. The edge was squared off. After trying to get a Bevel on it, and nearly done, I found the blade is wavy, with more metal to the heel of the edge. This made the bevel look off, from the side view, but spot on, from above. Thank goodness there was plenty of metal. After about 3 1/2 hrs total(I kid you not), the blade was done. ten strokes on the Chromium Oxide strop, and 200 on the leather, and I think its ready for a shave.
Progression 1k, 3k/8k, 8k 12k 15k Welsh Slate, Chromium Oxide Strop, Linen strop, then 200 leather strop.
"Орбита"(Orbita)



Update: After the first shave, the conclusion is that this is the sharpest razor I have. The Welsh Slate Stones worked beautifully.

 

I had a honing session.
I made a few nice edges.
I also did my dovo pearlex, both c-mons

 

Columbia Cutlery

Before

After taking WD40 and 150 sandpaper to start. Then moved on to 320 and finally 600. I was only attempting to remove the rust and save the etching. I then just buffed the blade and scales. 1-1/2 hours total on that part.

Then I spent 3 hours setting the bevel and honing. The edge kept getting into little rust
Pockets. Finally got a clean edge.

I will shave with it tonight.

Tom




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