did som touch ups on these.not that they needed it,but they all had welsh slate edges so wanted to try if i could improve them.since i did not use any synthetics i slurried the zulu and diluted to water. the 14 filarmoica might had a little,but the boker seemed to improve a lot in sharpness. was not happy with the edge it had so this looks promising.
on the 13 filarmonica i used the black ark.since both filarmonicas are dobble temple i used different stones to do a comparison,will be fun to see which is best. only test shave will showe

@Bjoerge Brathagen , you've been a busy Viking today, haven't you? Nice looking razors.

had some time on my own.it is good relaxation the filarmonicas is in like new condition. the boker is not as nice as it looks.much pitting near the bevel.

test shaved the boker king kutter today.it became another beast.definitely leaves the modern king kutter down in the dirt.they really knew hove to make razors back then.

Finished up the restoration of an old Dubl Duck Dwarf (see HERE) recently and honed it up yesterday for this morning's shave.
Chosera 1k (bevel set), followed by a Naniwa SS progression (3k, 5k, 8k) and finished on an old Escher waterstone.
Raised a light slurry on the Escher with an atoma plate, progressive laps with light pressure, thinning with water until the final dozen light laps with just water. Laps on linen and fast bridle leather = keen & smooth. Made for a very comfy shave!

Here's my latest, well my first hone job. A 6/8 made by Challenge Cutlery, Bridgeport Connecticut. They were in business from the late 1800's till 1928. The blade is in excellent condition. No pitting, chipping or corrosion whatsoever. Virtually no home wear. I figured that the risk was small and the price as well The blade was sharp enough to shave arm hare, but so are my hunting knives. I have a new Norton4/8k, which I lapped on 400 grit wd. Since the edge looked fine, I figured it needed a touch up and passed on resetting the bevel, which seemed to be the right decision. I did a pyramid between the 4&8k, 5 passes on the Swaty bh, then a dozen on 1 micron lapping paper. Finally went to the diamond paste, linen and leather. Wow! I am geeked Now I'll have to get a finisher and I'll be all set. Got an excellent shave

Congrats on your first successful hone.

Spyder, that's a nice razor! Congratulations on your first successful hone!

When I first started honing razors, all I had was a combo 3k/8k stone and I was able to get decent shaves off of it. I then added a Cnat 12-15k (or so the box said) and the edge improved. The Cnat cost me less than $40 and I think it was a good investment. I recently moved up to a Naniwa super stone set and really like it a lot.

So, what I'm saying is stick with the Norton and add a finishing hone. If money is an issue, look at the Cnat stones on Woodcraft. If money is not an issue, the Naniwa 12k is wonderful.

50 to 100 Laps on the 1 Micron Film is what I Use as a Finisher..A Dozen Strokes Wont Look Near it..Trust Me..

Billy..

Thanks. I didn't know how many laps. It shaves pretty good now, maybe I should take it back for some more laps on the paper.

Yeah..I Would..The Differnce will Blow You Away..Around 80 laps is Kinda Optimal on 1 Micron Film..Its about the Same as a 16/17 K Synthetic Stone..It Refines the Edge Way Beyond a 12 K Naniwa Super Stone & the Edge from a 12 K Super Stone is Smooth..If the 1 Micron Film is Used on a Cushion after Some Use You are Talkin the Eqivilant of a 20 K Stone..Easy..

Billy..

What is your recommendation for laps off and on a cushion? Im assuming just a piece of printer paper for the cushion,

Right..This is All a Judgement of Taste..That Said..40/50 Laps on the 1 Micron Film as Normal..A Further 40/50 Laps on the Printer Paper..Just Damp the Paper or it will Wrinkle or Not be Flat..Just the Weight of the Blade on the Cushion & that's the Beauty of it as it will Do its Job..

On the 1st 50 Laps on the Film as Normal Just Very Light Pressure the Same as a Stone..On the Cushion..No Pressure is Needed as the Film will be Pushed in Front of the Blade in a Very Subtle Way..Its a Neat Trick..

Billy..

Finally finished this SureEdge razor. I took @DaltonGang advice and hammered the spine. Taped the edge of the blade and went to town on a 600 DMT to get the alignment where it was better. Anyway I went back to the 1k and went through the 3,5,12 Naniwa progression. It looks and feels like a smooth sharp edge. You can see the spine if you look closely. Stropped it up and hopefully it will shave well.

Awesome. I'm glad it worked for you.

I'm going to find out in the morning if it shaves....

Did a touch up today on a 1865 (+\-5 years) Wostenholm & Sons EBRO Perseverance Works 7/8 (at the tip) razor. Just did a medium dry slurry on the Purple Welsh Slate and thinned it out to clear water. Realized that the spine is a little warped, and it requires a little pressure on the heel to get it. I'll bet that's why the heel is narrower than the toe. Did 10 laps on chromium oxide, and linen and leather. Smooth shave.

So I'm feeling pretty good about my honing now and am ready to take this one to the stones. Never honed, the factory edge is decent. I'm pretty sure that for the first time out, since it shouldn't need much in the way of setting the bevel, 1k lightly then 3,5 and 12k. Maybe just start on the 3k. I was going to go without tape. I actually prefer not using tape if I can get away with it. What do you guys think of my plan?

Using tape is a personal preference, but I have gotten into the habit of using at least one strip of tape. To me, it preserves the spine longer.

I understand but done right the bevel would be set once and after that only a refresh from time to time. Everyone seems to use tape. I'm pretty sure that in the day it wasn't used. Touching up an edge on a 12 k stone should have minimum wear.