No question it would be easier. I just thought if we made a group purchase from somewhere like APShave Co or TGN that had multiple knots and I put the knots in, it would cut down on folks shipping costs. Especially since I'll be shipping from Canada. The knots are so light that they wouldn't add a cost to the package I would think. I am perfectly fine with just making the handles and shipping them.
April 7 (Friday night ) - creams and Gem SE razors again Gem Featherweight / Gem PTFE ( 1) Alluminati Envy White brush La Toja shaving cream Alum and Thayers Witch Hazel Aftershave Today I received a package from Brian @mrchick that contained not only the vicious Japanese Stick Razor of Doom but also a Gem MMOC and Featherweight. Naturally, I have to try the Gem razors as soon as possible. So I did an evening shave with the Featherweight and I will do my normal shave tomorrow with the MMOC instead of my Schick Krona as planned. My next cream up was La Toja. I will repeat with it tomorrow because I am trying to decide what I think of it. The cream is made with mineral salts from the hot springs at La Toja, Spain. It builds a thick lather quickly and seems to provide decent cushion and glide. The scent is mild and sort of like bath salts. The post shave feel seemed more or less neutral; I didn't notice any particular dryness or tautness such as one gets after bathing in hot springs. I suspect I would have to use the cream for a couple weeks of daily shaves to see if in fact it had any of the skin cleansing health benefits claimed for it. Anyway, I will try repeating with it tomorrow to see if that gives me a better idea of what it is like. The Gem Featherweight was easier to assess. It's a light and handy version of the Gem SE. It was easy for me to use and I quickly got an excellent shave from it. I would peg it as milder than the 1912s. I was able to do both my usual diagonal passes and a complete ATG pass with it on my first use of it. The result was a DFS+ with no irritation. In short, a nice little razor.
SOTD 2: -Lutters Co. 5/8" -Simpson Duke 3 Synthetic -Stirling Electric Sheep -Stirling Gin and Tonic I know I am kind of an obsessive, but I spent half the day half bothered about the edge being messed up on that razor. So when I got home I ran the blade over a quick progression of 5,3 and 1 micron film. I wanted to see how it would do compared to hones. The only way to tell is to shave with it, and luckily for me I am something of a gorilla, and pretty much always need another shave. The film worked great, and tuned that edge right back up to where it had been. I am very pleased with the results, and it is nice to know that the film is such a functional option. Anyone looking to get into the straight game but is worried about the expense of hones can definitely keep this in the back of their mind as an option.
That's true too. Come to think of it, isn't APShave Co the one that does the tuxedo knots and isn't it in Canada too? The truth is, of course, that as the craftsman involved, you are in the driver's seat on these decisions - the rest of us are basically the peanut gallery.
OK, I don't want to send this thread too far off the rails, but with all this handle talk, I thought @jtspartan or one of the guys here could answer a question for me. The pic below is a handle my Dad turned for me from spalted maple. He did it on a lark at my request, and is going to make a second, taller one out of amboyna burl. Although it has no coating on it and Dad says it should be fine because of the high level of buffing. I don't want to risk damaging a keepsake by not coating it, and I don't want to risk ruining it by having it done wrong. Any advice from anyone who knows more than me?
I think we would all be willing to set our own. This is a pretty cool thing you are doing. I hope you know we are all just hacking on you about it, and didn't expect you to feel obligated do it at all, let alone for nothing.
Sorry, I kind of rambled there. My question was "does it need some sort of coating on it to protect it from water, and if so does anyone have any suggestions on this?" Thanks.
I know that, Jared. If I didn't want to do, I wouldn't do it. The 'doing it for nothing' part is not me trying to be a martyr, but more based on past precedent. I have made quite a bit of furniture or other wood items over the years as a hobbyist. Over the rare times when I have agreed to take on a project for someone else that had a $ value, or a trade value or a fixed timeline, my enjoyment went down exponentially. If I can make some handles over the next several weeks, and people are happy with them, that is great. Without sounding too sappy, the time I have spent on TSD in general, and this thread in particular, has been very rewarding and often a highlight in my day. I have seen lots of other members do very generous things, and this really isn't costing me much as I've had that board of nice maple for so long I don't even know what I paid for it, and have all the other equipment already (save for the punch set- a massive commitment of $18 Canadian on Amazon). BTW- At this point, it looks like most people want to put in their own knots.
You can't hijack this thread. Ask away! Marine polyurethane, perhaps? Wax? You can use anything you like, waterproof always good.
@Jayaruh does a lot of wood handles, he would be the one to ask. That's an awesome handle by the way.
I'll sound sappy too. I've witnessed LE buys on other forums and didn't purchase because they are not my home. This group and more specifically, my 30 day homies add joy to each and every day. This brush will be very special. Time for a group hug, sniff.
Coolest thing ever! You have my full support, lately me know what you need. This will be the only forum LE ever for me.
You'd be much better served with an answer from a pro. My own experience is that I do put a few coats of Marine Grade Urethane on my handles, and have not had any sort of problem. Untreated wood will deteriorate faster, in theory, based on tonnes of factors- type of wood, treatment of the brush, do you soak it, etc.