Tallow + Steel "West Indies"
Island Bladeworks "Stoya" | Elite Razor Manchurian
Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE (1)
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As you know, I've been working my way through Tallow + Steel's sophomore offerings. I saved "West Indies" for last because, based on the scent notes, I'd already decided it would probably be my least favorite of the five. One reason is the likelihood that it would be another Bay Rum. Many Bay Rum interpretations actually repulse me, so I'm hesitant to try new ones. The other reason is the coconut. I just couldn't see how a coconut fragrance would work as something wearable. The thought of it immediately reminded me of a sickly sweet Bath and Bodyworks hand soap. So, now that "West Indies" is starting off well behind, I lathered up.
First off was a convincing fresh bay aroma that got warmer and greener in a short time and remained dominant throughout the shave. A mellow, creamy note subtly moved in, followed by the spice. To me, the spice was non-specific. I could almost declare it to be cinnamon, or to a lesser degree clove, but the overall accord may have been suggesting it just by my association with bay. It could have been allspice, but I find allspice transforms so much depending on its associates that I don't think I could pick it out regardless. Towards the end of the shave, the accord acquired a creamy woodiness with only a hint of orange that was on the bitter end of the spectrum. Not once did I really notice anything that smelled like coconut. Perhaps coconut oil smells different from the fruit (technically a drupe), or maybe it was the creaminess I was detecting. At either rate, I was actually relieved to not have smelled what I was anticipating.
The splash was also bay-forward, but the sharp orange made more of a showing, and it got sharper and spicier during the drydown. After about 30 minutes, the orange became less specific and more of a general citrus. Soon afterward, the bay was replaced by a lovely, slightly smoky and woody vetiver. Four hours later, the citrus is still detectable and vetiver waxes and wanes.
I really enjoyed "West Indies" despite my foregone bias. This is clearly not a Bay Rum, nor is it advertised as such. That said, there are elements that will attract bay rum fans while still being an enjoyable fragrance for those who do not. This is quite simply a warm island citrus fragrance that's rooted in bay.
Tallow + Steel made a daunting decision to revamp their soap base and fragrance offerings as a sophomore wet shaving software company. They adhered to a business model in which they almost exclusively use organic ingredients and always use essential oils. That in and of itself doesn't bring me in as a customer, but I do admire the conviction. Additionally, their current theme involving fragrance profiles and essential oils to specific regions adds to the self-imposed restrictions, but I must say it's worked out well thus far. This has been a fun journey working through their new offerings, and I find it difficult to pick out a single one that outshines the group. They are all quite enjoyable and will have a place in my expansive rotation. Despite the subjective nature of the fragrances, the real story here is the performance. Initially, I was skeptical about the wisdom of overhauling their base because it was already a fine product. However, after working through the full spread, I'm convinced it was the right decision. This is a soap that can honestly hold its own against any of the current competition.
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