Yeah ok guys Here is the thing you are not arguing with me on this Almost 250 Years of Razor Hone sheets and Barbers manuals say you are wrong, they all have in the past and now, explained why you use an X stroke and hone toward a smile If you frown the blades and create uneven wear doing it. that is simply "User Error" and you are applying incorrect pressure and don't understand torque. I didn't invent it, I didn't say it should be that way, now if you think you know better then millions on men over hundreds of years then by all means they are your razors and your hones have at it. Myself I tend to think those old farts knew a weeee bit more than you might think about Straight Razors and I plan on explaining it that way when I teach Also this is by far not the first time this has come up, you can search "Why the X-Stroke" on here SRP and B&B you will find the exact same question the exact same explanation of uneven wear and the exact same answer of why it isn't true.. I have probably answered myself at least 50 times in the last 10+ years.. This explains it the best I have been able to come up with when teaching people to hone http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/frowning-blade-question.57777/#post-1333069
I agree, with your explanation. But, it the X-Stroke was applied with even pressure, during the entire stroke, then, yes, the toe end of the blade would wear faster. That is why you have tried, I hope not in vain, to explain that it's all about pressure, and feel. I read a short book, by a Japanese Honemeister, who explained pressures in honing, and how it should be varied, with the progression through each stone. Honing a blade is not Black and White guys. If you apply the same honing tactics with every blade, then you will have a lot of sub par razors. Learn from those who have many many years of experience, and more.razors honed, under their belts, than most of us will ever see.
*sigh*. I'm talking physics and geometry, and you're arguing semantics. I'm saying that if you're aware of the physics and the geometry, you can compensate for the natural tendency of people to 1) underhone the end closest to the hand, and 2) frequently overhone the end furthest away. (You'd think it'd be underhoned as well, but from sharpening lots of knives over a lot of time, I've noticed that the knives tend to be overworked at the point. I suspect it's both additional pressure by lifting, and just extra 'working') The only way to sharpen the entire blade the same way is 1) if it's _completely_ straight, 2) There are no scales, and 3) you have a hone long enough to lay the razor completely flat upon it at a slight angle, and run the entire blade at once the exact same amount on the stone. (even then, the leading/trailing corners will take a beating) Every other sharpening method requires technique - which I don't have for a straight razor, as @DaltonGang can attest.
Well, you can talk about it, and theorize, until the cows come home. But, none of that matters, until the "Metal hits the stone". I think, in all kindness and sincerity, that it's time for you to start honing some razors. Then, all this will make more sense. The toe and heel ends do need to take a beating, if you apply proper techniques. Pressure, blade torquing, a little rocking motion, is all about feel and how the water is pushed. It's hard to learn it, by just reading, or watching videos. But, all of that is a good start.
Oh - I hone blades all the time. Usually at least once a week, I have a stone out. I just don't hone _razors_. The only flat blades I hone are planes and chisels, and those aren't even close. I'm just well aware of the physics of putting a piece of steel on a stone, and if you grind 1/2" for 1 second, and 1 inch for 2 seconds, you lose more metal on the 1 inch section than the 1/2" section. That's it. My father's knives often end up looking like awls. Mine, although thinner than original, are still the same profile, end to end, as they were to start. (a couple I've had to grind out a notch on so that I don't end up with that weird curved section by the handle) Want an axe sharpened? I can do that You just don't want to shave with it.
Me, I sharpen my axes with a bench grinder. Very brutal on the edge, but I only use them to split wood.
I used to do that, but after the initial round of getting rid of the bludgeon edge that everyone sells an axe with, I found that taking a Crystolon stone to the axe, dry, by hand, does a really good job while your chopping. If you want a smoother edge, then you simply use water or oil, and still do it by hand. Holding the stone in the hand, and using a sweeping motion down and across leaves a REALLY nice edge. Keep your thumb away from the edge. Turn the axe the other way, so the handle is away from you, and you can use the exact same motion to polish the other side. As you said - proper technique. I REALLY want a pedal stone.
You have a very strange way of communicating? You say it is totally opposite, and in the next line you rephrase what i said??? Did you read my post before you said it was all wrong?
