SoS; March 2018

March 17th SOTD
Cooper MonoBilt w Polsilver (4)
TGN Synthetic/ Mahogany
Stirling Coniferous
Alum
TFS Mastro Miche AS

 

Sunday SOTD



Razor: OneBlade GENESIS
Blade: Feather FHS (D7)
Brush: Crown King Switchback 400 w 25mm HMB
Bowl: HoneycombCopper 4 ½”
Pre-Shave Scrub: Lisa's Spicy Lime Patchouli
Pre-Shave Oil: Homemade Jasmine Orange Vanilla
Shave Soap: Grooming Dept Voyage
Post: Monster Block Alum
Aftershave: Extro Rasoio E Pennello Summer 2015

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SOTD 3.17.2018
Head Shave (7 days) & Face Shave (24 hours)
Pre-shave: hot shower
Brush: Barburys synthetic
Cream: Godrej Shaving Cream
Razor: Gillette Tech
Blade: Best Choice (Made in Vietnam) DE (1)
Post-shave: Assured WH, Gillette AS Gel, Gillette Cool Wave AS
Background: 1976 E.L.O. LP album "A New World Record"

 

Declaration Grooming + Chatillon Lux Parfums | Santal Auster
Ever-Ready 100T | Elite Razor Manchurian
Ever-Ready SE | Gem PTFE
Chatillon Lux Parfums | Santal Auster Parfum Extrait

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I'm often perplexed when an artisan decides to introduce a new soap base when their current base is already performing at a very high level. I'm cautious to overstate this for concerns of being labeled a fan boy, but the new base from Declaration Grooming, named Icarus, is on a whole other level. I dare say this could be a leader board changer.

Declaration warned about potential "gaminess" from the base due to the combination of goat's milk and lamb tallow in addition to the bison tallow. To remedy this, it was recommended the puck be permitted to breath a bit prior to trying to get a fragrance assessment. I took a whiff right off the freshly opened tub, and I could barely detect any animalic notes. I suspect that if I hadn't been forewarned about it, I wouldn't have even detected that. Instead, I was met with a very pleasant soft warm sandalwood.

The temperature here in East Texas was around 80°F, and it only had about 2 hours to cool off in the house before I used it. I can't say the firmness of the soap is much different than their other base, but it did retract a tiny bit in the tub.

I loaded with a moderately damp badger knot, and there were no surprises. It was easy and intuitive as I felt the weight of the knot increase and the tug against the surface of the soap as I achieved max capacity. I do miss the marshmallow cream/stringiness of the prior base's protolather, but Icarus loads in a more traditional manner.

I scalp-lathered, testing the water range with my usual hard water. A usable lather was quickly forthcoming. I have sensitive skin and tend to get brush burn if I do much scrubbing with a badger knot, so my method involves brief scrubbing to bring in the air, but most of the lather building is done with painting and slapping. Despite a quick usable lather, I wanted to test the water limits of this new base. Ultimately, I couldn't find it---the limit, that is. More water just brought more lather. I ended up using enough water that would have killed most of my other soaps with the one exception being Barrister's Reserve.

Heavily watered Icarus yielded a dense paintable base with a light sheen, but not iridescent. The elite-status slickness was immediately apparent with the first swipe of the blade. Again, I'm reservedly stating this, but I may not have another soap that is as slick as this. There are certainly none in my den that surpass it. My feelings about the residual slickness are the same. There are absolutely no concerns about revisiting areas that are devoid of visible lather.

After just one pass, I was able to determine that the post-shave was going to excel as well. My skin already felt soft and supple. I completed a 2-pass plus touch-up head and face shave, and as per my usual routine when assessing a new soap, I smeared the pulled lather on my scalp and face and left it while I cleaned up my gear. There were no ill effects from the prolonged exposure, and my skin felt perfect. Despite the outstanding residual slickness, the final rinse was clean and easy. The post shave was reminiscent of that provided by Catie's Bubbles' Luxury line. A post product was completely unnecessary, but I enjoy the process, just the same, so I applied an aftershave.

Chatillon Lux Parfums' sandalwood fragrance for both the soap and the splash is quite pleasant in an elegant simple fashion. This is a singular sandalwood note, and in terms of sandalwood, it's anything but single-faceted. This sandalwood smells quite natural, and it's a rather forward fragrance but not choke-a-mule (or goat, in this case) TOBS-strong. With the initial application of the splash, I experienced a brief flash of sulfite scent followed by the same sandalwood I detected in the soap.

I can't speak to the longevity of the splash's scent, because I immediately layered on top a single pump of the simply outstanding Santal Auster extrait from Chatillon Lux Parfums. I've only been wearing it for 3 hours, now, so I can't provide an exhaustive assessment, but this is sandalwood on steroids. Santal Auster is a lovely, elegant, and classic fragrance with the expected creamy, and faintly powdery sandalwood, but much, much more. The unassuming, almost singular creamy woody note, swells within an hour and becomes more complex, giving way to a controlled resinous accord. As I write this, a muskiness sidles in, revealing a sultriness I was not expecting.

It should come as no surprise that when Declaration Grooming and Chatillon Lux collaborate, good things happen. However, with this release, I believe they've achieved new heights with each of the artisans having flexed their respective creative muscles, thereby turning out two products that have far exceeded my expectations.

 

Thanks. Now I have the ELO song "Turn to Stone" stuck in my head. Not that it's a bad song though. Just way too easy to get it on a mental subconscious loop.

 

Pre-Shave: SebaMed, cold water
Razor: Parker Variant on 3.0
Blade: Ladas (1)
Brush: Tony Forsyth Platypus Prototype Bob Quinn Manchurian
Lather: Mystic Water Bergamot, Cedarwood & Juniper
Post-Shave: Alum, Thayers Original Alcohol Free Witch Hazel, Australian Emu Oil​

 

That's a good tune. Just be glad I didn't select The Best of Bread for the background.

 

That's a fantastic photo!

 

Razor: English Flare
Blade: 7 O'clock (Yellow)
Soap: Stirling Lime
After Shave: Florida Frost
Shaving Balm: Stirling Island Man

Foolishly I misjudged my time to departing to church; so rushed through my shave. I survived with a DFS in two passes with only minor aggravation of my lower neck.

 

SHAVE OF THE DAY


Prep: Musgo Real Oakmoss
Razor: Wilkinson Sword Classic
Blade: Lord Platinum (3rd shave)
Brush: Razorock BC Plissoft
Soap: Wheat State Soaps Creekside
Post: Proraso Woods & Spice balm



Had a decent shave today. The scent of Creekside is a bit reminiscent of the discontinued Tim's Roots, which is a great woodsy/earthy type of scent. Wheat State Soaps whipped up a thick lather with no problems. Finished off with Proraso Woods & Spice balm for a drama free shave. Hope everyone has a safe St. Patricks day!

 

18 March 2018

* Blackbird Black Oxide OC 85
* Wizamet Iridium Super
* Paladin Butterscotch Chief
* Mystic Water Sardinian Honey
* Unrefined Shea Butter
* Bergamot/Vetiver EO


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Excellent St. Patrick's Day theme!

 

March Madness!!!

March 17 The Shave of the Irish!

Razor - 1959 (E4) Gillette Fatboy (9)
Blade - (2)
Soap - Stirling Ozark Mountain
Brush - Stirling Synthetic Pro Type
Post - Alum

It's almost too late but Happy St. Patrick's Day!! I nearly wore my kilt to work today but decided against it. Yeah, I know kilts are Scottish, but us Irish types sometimes wear the County tartans. Anyway, a very busy day followed by a couple of hours of packing up around my desk when I got home. Finally got to shave.

Setting "me" turned into a bit of a problem tonight, but only because I wasn't paying attention. Forgot I had the razor wide open with a Permasharp and paid a bit of a price. A couple of weepers and a minor nick. Nothing major. But I'll remember tomorrow that I need to pay more attention to the shave than to the list of things still needing to be done in my head.

Three passes on that fantastic Stirling lather and I'm still enjoying the after shave scent it leaves behind. Even with the slight issues, a very fine DFS shave and all's well in Cartel HQ.

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What a write up!!

 

Always a good read.

Nice brush!

 

Jeeves Bay Rum
B-400 WD High Mountain badger
Suribachi bowl & cool water
Ming Shi 2oooS & Wilkinson blade
Osage Rub, M&L Florida Water​

 

Great shave tonight .

 

Dubl Duck Wonderedge
Scrupleworks strop
Shavemac D-01 2 Band
L&L
Nevermore Body Company AS

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Wednesday:
Prep: Hot towel
Pre shave: Prep
Razor: Sensor Excel
Blade: N/A
Brush: Rough,No Name Boar
Soap: L&L: Bon Vivant
Post: Cold water rinse / Witch Hazel / Chatillon Lux: Bon Vivant Post Shave Toner

L&L 'Bon Vivant' providing the base for an excellent shave.. nuff said, methinks!

Saturday:
Prep: Hot towel
Pre shave: Prep
Razor: Sensor Excel
Blade: N/A
Brush: Rough,No Name Boar
Soap: Jeeves of Hudson Street 'Tobacco/Bay Leaf'
Post: Cold water rinse / Witch Hazel / ASB

1st run out with Jeeves of Hudson Street 'Tobacco/Bay Leaf', and quite frankly, I couldn't fault it... the post shave might not be as luxurious as some of the current big guns, but that's why we have post shave products, innit! ;-)

 

Good Morning Everyone SOTD 03/18/18

Trac II Handle (unknown brand)
Dollar General Cart. (6)
Barbasol Pacific Rush
Cold Water Rinse, Alum Block
Barbasol Pacific Rush A/S

Have A Great Day!