I'm here for you guys, Fuzzy. Just the other day, I helped a guy haul a load of Williams to the landfill. I'm really glad the landfill operator didn't notice the hazardous waste labels on the truck. That saved a lot of paperwork.
I think you're pressing down much too hard. The Fat Boy is a fairly hefty razor so let its weight do the work. Also use a good quality shaving soap to allow the blade to glide over your face.
Still a work in progress... I would like for top to open up further, so may need to fully disassemble again to pad up the top surface of the vertically moving member of the bottom knob.. then need to try to bend the safety guard in to place.
If you're used to a cartridge razor, the angle is entirely different, also Feather blades are great.....but.....on the first shave they can turn the best of us into hamburger, that's why a whole lot of very experienced shavers run a new Feather blade through a wine cork before using it to shave. It removes the jaggies left during production.
I don't know if he's still active or doing repairs - there's a guy well respected on the B&B forum you might contact. Well known for working on Fat Boys. I've read about folks sending their razor to him before getting them plated. CaptMurphy vintagerazorrepair@gmail.com
Feather blades are best used on a lower setting. I'd recommend a 4, 5 max. But I also used a slim. Might have a different head geometry.
Capt. Murphy's way of setting gap........... https://theshaveden.com/forums/thre...-other-useful-stuff.52584/page-2#post-1308001 Same way but in picture form......... https://theshaveden.com/forums/thre...ad-and-other-useful-stuff.52584/#post-1114932
A Google search for "comparing head geometry Gillette Fatboy Slim" goes to a B&B discussion that didn't answer the question. Too much YMMV. The Fat Boy does have a thicker, more rounded head than the Slim. I've used Feather Hi-Stainless and Kai blades in my E4 Fat Boy on setting nine for great reduction with no errors. Granted I worked my way up to it. Setting five was fine until I tried it at seven. Not long after I was on nine with any blade that worked at any lower setting. Stretch the skin, ride the cap, no pressure. Some shavers report Feather blades being harsh or rough on the first use, but smoothing out second shave until they get too dull to continue. I can't say I've noticed it. Maybe my "crisp" effective feeling is their damaged and raw.
I've had Capt Murphy work on a few of my razors with no regrets. two Fat Boys ... one seized (badly) and one with the drops A 1968 Super Speed in pieces (many) A 1968 Lady Gillette with bad alignment issues (restored and sent to daughter in-law).
I'm there on the FB. Still training up with the Merkur Futur clone. That thing has a blade gap, but it's not the gap that does the shaving.
all good, not a real adjustable user..i shave with 30-50s non adjustables that were used during war times..and get great shaves with them..just like yourself with your old types..adjustables are a gimmick..
You are correct Sir! Don't say that to loud! LOL. You should check out some of the replys on my youtube with my last video.
[QUOTE="BigMark83, post: 1538965, member: 19336"]Feather blades are best used on a lower setting. I'd recommend a 4, 5 max. But I also used a slim. Might have a different head geometry.[/QUOTE] Why?
After several attempts to shave with the fatboy and feather blades I came to a conclusion that for my facial hair a feather is only good for 1 shave; after that it tugs. Messing with a straight razor now. Planning to try chain saw next.
That is technique issues. No such thing as a one shave and out blade if everything is in proper shape. People do that but it is a personal choice more then a need too.