I started off with a painful shave with a Rolls Razors after finding out how expensive cartridges were once I shaved my beard. I drank the Amazon.com koolaid and bought an Escali Badger brush from Art of Shaving. Yes, I really did. Bought an EJ 89DE, Merkur 34cHD, and Van der Hagen TTO before being PIF'd a 1959 Fatboy. Steamed an Ever-Ready 89 because I thought I could pop the knot out. Never steam or boil a vintage brush, you'll effectively destroy it. I've shattered handles and ferrules trying to restore old brushes. Polished or cleaned Nickel off a Tech cap, sprayed scrubbing bubbles on a gold-washed Aristocrat...Don't. Ever. Had a razor re-plated and discovered it shaved differently.
What mistakes have you experienced? Can you offer a remedy

Mistakes
1. Being afraid to ask questions about fair costs via PM
2. Avoiding "used" razors
3. Avoiding "vintage" razors
4. Trying to Keep up with the Jones
5. Not recognizing that many of the brush knots made my "artisans" come from the same place.
6. Not recognizing that many of the brush handles made my "artisans" come from the same place.
7. Pretty doesn't mean good
8. Soaps and Creams do matter, but don't have to break the bank
9. There is a best blade out there and it is ________!
10. Thinking there is only one way to do "it"

Remedies
1. Reach out to someone who will be frank about overall costs and values for razors & brushes. Pricing is not usually discussed "here" but "here" refers to the threads and posts, not PM's. Pay attention to prices on the Classifieds
2. These are tools that are used to shave with. These instruments can be more than adequately sterilized and cleaned to a state that is most likely better than when they come out of the OEM packaging. Look at the PIF's, participate in them.
3. Newer and more modern does not equate as better. Vintage razors may lose some appeal due to cosmetics issues, but the gold wash is simply that-gold wash. It's going to come off, even with the lacquer finish. Make sure the alignment is good and the parts match. Too much metal wear(use and over polishing) can be a problem.
4. Be true to thyself. Know who you are or discover who you are. Be bold, but be smart. There are some folks who will drop a mint on gear because they can, but it doesn't mean you have to. We(shaving enthusiasts and collectors both) are evangelists trying to convince anyone who will listen that our way is superior. It is, at least for us, that is why we shave the way we do or collect the way we do.
5. Unless the knot is being hand-tied by a premium knot maker, 90% are all coming from the same place, so pay attention. Synthetic and Natural both.
6. See #5. I'll add that there are only a few professional handle turners out there, and @Rudy Vey is one of the best. Both his handles AND his knots are premium. For example he will walk you through the entire process of selecting a handle and knot. Many(not all) other "artisans" receive the knot and handle separately and assemble the brush before mailing to the buyer.
7. That razor that doesn't have any silver, gold, nickel, or chrome left on it might be perfect. Don't overlook it. By that same token, that razor that has been "revamped" or refinished will most likely shave with different tolerances because it has been stripped and refinished/resurfaced. Considering how the blade gap and blade exposure is measured, the gaps and exposure will be different. A refinished razor might look amazing, but that does mean it will shave amazingly. The razor without any finish left might look like a devil but shave like an angel and become your go-to for the rest of your DE shaving experiences.
8. After trying a few different soaps and cream, I found Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving cream($18-$30/tub) to be the easiest to use. Thankfully I was able to find what I liked with the ToOBS and after trial and error unlocked the mystery of the triple-milled shaving soap of Pre de Provence No. 63($8-$13). Williams($1.50) and Van de Hagen($2.50) are 2 store bought soaps. Stirling and Captain's Choice both have strong followings among the shaving forums and are not overly expensive. There are also brands like Prosaso, WARS, Palmolive, Nivea, Neutrogena, Arko, and the like that won't break the bank. Practice and try the less expensive offerings before buying something that ought to be sold by the ounce.
9. Blades are pretty subjective. I do like the PPI blades and have had great luck with them all. The PPI blades are those made by Petersburg Products International. It's P&G's massive factory in Russia. It's the factory that makes some of the best blades in the world:
● Polsilver Super Iridium
● Perma-Sharp Super
● Nacet
● Gillette Silver Blue
● Gillette 7 O'Clock SharpEdge(Yellow)
● Gillette 7 O'Clock Super Stainless(Green)
● Gillette Platinum
There could be others, but these are the ones I liked. I also like the Feather, Astra Platinum, Voskhod, & Personna. Other folks love the Wilkinson blades, Derby blades, and so on. A sleeve(20) of tucks(5) should set you back $10-$30. That is for 100 blades. me and 5 other guys bought 4 sleeves and split them up for less than $15(shipped) and ended up with Feather, GSB, Voskhod, Personna Blue, & Polsilver SI blades.
10. Whether you are face lathering, hand lathering, using an insulated scuttle, salsa bowl, mug or cereal bowl, you'll never know what you like until you give it a spin. Making shave sticks out of glue-stick containers isn't wrong or right, it what you do or tried. Live and learn. Be creative. Have fun. in the end, you might find out you've been nominated for a MAYhem 2020 Shavey Award.


For the sake of full disclosure, I am an avid, not quite rabid, Vintage shaving gear fan. I either collect what I use or use what I collect. So, with the exception of a handful of SE razors which I still have yet to try, I have used all of the razors on my shelf or in my study. Further, I tried the Merkur 34C hd, EJ 89DE, and VDH TTO a couple of times until I found the old Gillette razors.

Awesome sir.. very well spoken..

Very good advise!

Someone else will need to be a voice for modern razors, as they are not my bag.

I couldn’t agree more! a nice read for an 8 month old rookie in...“this thing of ours” =]

Well written, I would add:

They are just blade holders, technique is the key. You don’t have to spend big bucks to get a great shave.

I prefer modern razors, like the looks and I prefer aggressive razors. We all have different tastes, that what makes life interesting.

VDH is a super speed clone. Upon examination, one will find no real innovation in DE design since the 1950s. Your list and advice are wll thought out, thanks for putting it down for the newer guys.

best place to learn a proven shave technique..and cool people here..

Oh man!
Yes, yes, did that one, uh huh that too...

So!
Knowing what I went through, I now lend out razors, give out blades, spoon out soap samples and have a small cash of cheap and inexpensive brushes and soaps to sell if needed. I have no issues getting a younger or older gentleman started down the path. I have started a few guys out and they are doing fine now. Not saying that we should all do this lending and tutoring of this ritual, manhood, hobby thing we do.
I find that some don't have anyone to show them how, I didn't. This skill seems to have been lost to the dust bin of history.
So I step in when asked.
I find when shown the craft, many are interested, to my surprise.
Great post!
Thanks for sharing.
tp

I spent the week with some young men in HS and was surprised at what many did not know about “grooming” and other personal hygiene techniques.
Traditional shaving has a number of challenges, however, we as enthusiasts can help address many of these challenges.

It took years to realize all I needed were ONE razor, ONE brush, a couple of creams or soaps and blade brands.

This is hobby shaving and not daily shaving that the masses do. Experiencing a Barbasol Floating Head with a Feather blade or a GEM MMOC/BMMOC is something very special, not to mention the efficiency of a Type E Schick injector.

First, let me say thanks for an informative, well written, and, at times, entertaining post. I enjoyed it tremendously!

One of the previous posts contained a comment about the "art of shaving" being lost to the dust bins of history. Had never thought of that, but you're right. It has! I had a grandfather that lived in an old two story farmhouse with a wood fired cook stove in the kitchen. In that kitchen hung his razor strop where I'm sure he shaved in the morning since that was the only heated place in the mornings. Did I pay attention to his shaving then? Sadly, no! And I was "taught" to shave with Gillette DE safety razors and a pack of Gillette Blue blades in the dispenser pack. Did I retain what I learned then? Again, sadly, no! So now I'm here trying to recapture some of which was lost. I appreciate the journey and the help I receive along the way!

Using a shavette or straight is much easier than I initially thought. Just keep the blade flat and it will be impossible to cut flesh. Think of the angle to cut meat and never use it to shave.