Member @Draftetdan dropped the tutorial on us but hasn't been active for a little while. It happens when folks join TSD, gather what advice or information they need and move on. Thank you @MrEE for adding to the data on the procedure! Getting the old razor clean before plating ought to increase the service life. Knowing all the supplies to do this are easily available & taking the proper precautions to keep it safe? Awesome
I think I am interpreting the question mark (?) accurately. The cleaning solution is safe enough. TSP sounds intimidating, but it's not any worse than acetone. The acids require care, but nothing too intimidating. You can also buy surface activator, but costs add up. https://www.caswellplating.com/elec...reatments-etches/nickel-activator-1-pint.html. Acids are no big deal. Just don't get any of it on your skin or anything else you want to keep in solid/non-liquid form and you'll be fine.
MrEE, I'm so glad you added to my story. So much of what I've done was based on what I gleaned from other sources. The whole time I was thinking "this seems right.. I hope nothing goes wrong". Your suspicions are correct. I tried re-plating a nice old Ever ready (1930's I think) and i didn't get anywhere near the results I was looking for (peeling and flaking and poor adhesion). The superspeed is holding up pretty well but, because the RAD bug has struck, the SS is farther back in the rotation than it deserves and doesn't get a lot of use. It seems to be getting a tiny hint of gold on the rounded edges. Likely from the plating getting thin. I'd love to pick your brain for some better techniques that could be applied. It seems that the majority of the web sources that I located were either very basic and didn't explain even a little of the science or ,worse, so in depth that they quickly overwhelmed me and what I could recall from high school chemistry. I'll have to review my process and see what kind of exciting questions i can toss at you, if you are willing to share. BTW, I saw the pic of some of your replating jobs (in another post)... Very Cool. It looks like you've really nailed down the process.
Certainly, I started exactly the way you did and had good initial results then disaster. Electro cleaning and/or alkali cleaning, water break testing, acid dip to activate, and then plating. I have had great results. It would be fun to see others get the results they want as well.
I want to re-plate my 1964 Slim I was thinking about letting Razor emporium do it but I’m the type of man that if I know I can do something why pay someone to do it !!! #HandyMan Plus on here and I think somewhere else I heard mixed reviews I heard they do great work and some people said they had a bad experienc and/ or messed up their vintage razor #FixStuff #GottaBeCareful #HANDYMAN
I had Razor Emporium revamp 2 razors in Rhodium. They do a good job, but they over polished my fatboy rounding all the crisp corners off the adjustment dial and on my red tip they left a thin pinkish spot on the TTO knob. I won't be sending them more business. They're a high volume business and don't do as good of a job as they use to. Replating it yourself isn't cheaper and your first attempt won't look as good. Its all about prep and using the right tools. I would ask for suggestions on who else can replate your slim. I'm sure someone here knows of a good place. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I know this is an old thread, but I just thought I would throw in my recommendation for Back Road Gold for anyone wanting a razor replated but don't necessarily have the time or inclination for DIY. I had them replate my Gillette Tech in nickel and they did a beautiful job.
Thanks for sharing this tutorial. I'm retired with too much time on my hands, so may have to try this myself some day.
This is why the person is fixing the shaver in the first place, common enough if they messed up to the point the shaver is no longer useable, they can get a new model of the same shacver
My mom did the same to replace a belt in the 2000's on early YouTube for the exact model she had from 2001, there was a crappier Menard's/Lowes version where the belt is made harder to replace and that had my mom confused at the time. I got for my brother and I in 2021 one of the least smart models but bought as beefy as they make for the set without the middle spindle for the washer because they are all plastic or cheap aluminum. The inner spindle is not even not like how my mom and dad 2001 washer at previous house was made with these screw like blades spindle part plastic but having an aluminum alloy cone like post in them, now they are either a garbage aluminum alloy where the screw like part fins on the spindle is thin/poorly made and has no support like my parents washer at new house they have lived in since 2020 is this kind of aluminum model or worse is a beefier plastic because it has no structural support inside.My modern washer has these mini drum fins on a dome piece in the spinning part when we needed to get a new washer in 2021. The one washer that came with the house was from early 1970's ended up dying in a way it was unrepairable some bearing parts rusted to the middle spindle parts and they are no longer made like the spindle and the part it spins on ended up blowing the motor out. Just before taking the washer to the scrap yard, and removing the cable to scrap separately, we did take apart the body so somebody we knew could use the holed drum as an in place set 1/2 body in the ground style fire pit for people who wanted it for that use as a second non mobile fire pit, they live further out of town and can use a one of the fire pits that sit in the ground that people in the 2 towns are not supposed to use this type due to laws in town for safety not that anybody checks that as longer as the risk of tall grass and wood are away from the fire pit either type. My brother and I did sell the never used until my brother and I did the 1970 appliance green dryer once the new set came in for more than enough to cover the cost of at the time buying a cheap used model of washer that has only 2 settings for the load. My brother and I still have the we paid $90 for crappy washer as we were selling it free with the purchase of the dryer. We were selling the set for $120 but the buyer who wanted the item was only wanting the dryer after seeing the washer and the dryer where the buyer had to right away replace a rubber belt they ended up replacing from what we were told was a geared style chain they got in proper width that fit the dryer that is still working last I heard when the repair finally worked once getting the tension/number of links right.
