What a specimen! For $20 you are a thief you know. The only thing I’ve found harder to hone, or at least equally difficult, to an Eskiltuna blade is a Dorko. Absolutely outstanding and well worth the work it put you to. Congratulations.
What do my eyes read??? Glen is using a Chinese Whaterstone???? This isn't April 1st, is it??? Ok, I need to take a break, to gain my thoughts..,........................................................................................................ Ok, better now. So, @gssixgun , these PHIG(Chinese Waterstone) can do a good job at honing a razor??? ..
Some of them are exceptional,, There are two different Threads I did on them over at SRP I even went so far as to explain which to look for But yes I have used mine on almost every Swede and Russian razor that has come in for honing, it does a very good job on very hard steel Full disclosure; I bought 4 of them from 4 different sources and narrowed it down to this one I gave away the other three to new guys. I have probably honed on at least 20 different ones over the last 10 years, some are fair, most are good, a few are REALLY good..
Ahh, that explains the "Select". Can you please educate us, on what to look for in a "Good" Chinese Waterstone?? If you have old pics, that might help even more. .
One of my good friends is going to send me a straight razor and a strap and I have a sharpening stone but not sure if you can use it with a straight razor I’m going to put a picture and you guys please let me know Whether it’s applicable or or whether it’s applicable or not .
Not sure about the actual composition of that stone, but the Kramer & Zwilling branding reputation is in knives. I believe you have a 1000 grit stone. The highest I go on knives is 1000. Before considering trying to sharpen a straight razor, I highly recommend learning to shave on one with a 'known edge'. I allowed 100 shaves for my open edge boot camp, based on the opinion of many. It was good advice. I had multiple razors with known edges in use before I made a honing attempt. 'known edges' - (defined as honed by experienced individuals) 1000 is where one might start on a razor.
That stone is a 1000 grit stone, used for bevel setting. It is probably intended for knives, not razors. If that is the only stone you are going to use on a razor, then the razor will not be "Shave Ready". It will be a very rough and uncomfortable shave. I suggest you watch some videos on what is needed to sharpen a razor, and how to use the equipment. ..
Honed My Mint Factory Fresh Engels Solingen Special on a Naniwa Super Stone Progression & Finished on My 17 K Escher Thuri.. Billy..
Trying to learn the Black Hard Arkansas... Took this Kaufmann Old No.55 up to a Naniwa 12k then transitioned to this Black Gold. Felt good, so interested to see how I did. Happy honing. Tom
It’s turned cool here, a refreshing change from the heat that’s been over the southeastern US for a number of weeks. The first really cool fall weather means one thing, chili! So I tuned up my Takeda sassanoa (bamboo leaf) on a suita, and the thin, hard, blade made short work of peppers, onions, garlic, and a piece of sirloin. The kanji on the blade read Shosui ‘heart’ Nimei (his city), AS for aogami (blue) super steel, and for those familiar with Nakayama jnats, the naka kanji which means middle sized in this case. Next up was a Cape 1000 Swedish Steel refresh on ol’ ugly, a hard, super fine probably Nakayama. The razor is one of the better shaving blades that I have, and the stone is just perfect though it takes a little bit to raise a thin working slurry. The surface of the stone is so smooth that your first impression sliding your hand across it is that you’re feeling air, not stone, there’s just something stopping your hand. It will shave without effort.
Tuckmar Extra Ober Prima Silver Steel Solingen This is my $7 Tuckmar. I had to massage out a crack in the blade, which was how I came by it so inexpensively. This is some crazy had steel, and took a long time on the Norton 220 stone, to get a pre bevel set. It was tough going throughout, because of the hardness. I used a JNAT and several Naguras I acquired from @Steve56 . In the end, it proved to hold a wicked edge. Very well put together razor.
C-MON Solingen Germany Another razor I had to take a chip out of, as well as a tiny crack. That is the theme for today. this was the same progression as the Tuckmar, but the steel was easier to hone. Very thin grind. In the end, very very sharp.
Puma 6/8th Solingen I acquired this from france, with a very chippy, and rusty blade, that had a good crack in it. I did my best to save the gold, and as much etching, but had to leave a little pitting to do this. This proved to be the biggest PITA. the steel is very hard and brittle, which made taking the crack out very labor intensive, and a little stressful. I used the same progression as the other two razors today. But, this one decided to flake off a tiny portion of the bevel, for no reason. No rust in the area, no cracks, no reason. Other than it is a PITA. No wonder someone, 80 or so years ago got pissed and whacked it on something hard several times. Well, patience paid off. It delivered a very sharp, and shiny edge. I might give it a shave tonight.
I use FEATHER Artist Club SS Straight Razor that I got for 50 bucks on amazon, pretty budget but works fine for me
There are certain days that working on SR's really standout as EXCELLENT days.. Today is one of those days Serious steel on the honing bench Hone On !!
