30 Day Rule/Focus; August 2022

I'm working on a new article for The Shave Den, and it's requiring me to exclusively shave with one razor type for a while. I'm about 3 weeks of shaves in on it and about 300 miles from home, so I'm also dealing with a limited selection of products, sorry.

I don't normally do SOTD posts, but I thought some of you might find the razor and process interesting.

The razor in question is the Rolls Razor. Well, two different models, anyways. An Imperial No. 2 from 1951, and a stainless cased Imperial No. 3 from 1939. A third blade may show up from time to time, an undated blade, presumably from 1939 as well.

Both razor systems needed maintenance. The set from 1939 is complete and functions well, but is very worn, so all blades are stropped and honed on the '51 Rolls Razor system. The strops were rejuvenated with lubriderm skin lotion, and pasted with Turtle Wax rubbing compound of unknown vintage (been using it for 30 years, though this is the first time using it on a strop). The compound is FeOx (iron oxide) based, and is probably pretty close to the original Rolls Razor strop dressing. *shrug*

Red jeweler's rouge can also be used as a strop dressing, when mixed with a small amount of light oil (such as 3in1 or sewing machine oil

The hone was prepped with petroleum jelly (NOTE: Rolls instructions say to use the hone dry). The stock hone is between 6k and 8k grit, and I've heard estimates even lower, at 4k. Letting petroleum jelly soak into the stone and then wiping it off after a few hours, completely rejuvenates the hone and allows for a slightly keener edge (imo).

The gears were cleaned and greased, again with petroleum jelly... I mean, it was just sitting there, waiting to be used. The spindle and friction pad in both razors were disassembled and cleaned in 91% rubbing alcohol.

It's always bothered me that a once popular, common, and expensive razor; that was in production for over 30 years, is now relegated to the equivalent of a sideshow attraction for most shavers. It's one of the most affordable "vintage" razors out there, often selling for less than it's original price.

The Rolls is what collectors call a "transitional razor." It gets lumped in with the Wilkinson Sword Empires, the Darwin Universal, and other wedge blade safety razors.

Anyway, enough of that.

Aug. 3, 2022
Pre-shave: shower
Razor: Rolls Imperial No. 2, 1951
Brush: Shavemac D01/Wolf Whiskers handle
Soap: Saponifico Verisino Cosmo
Aftershave: Derby City Chop Shop Winter Reserve
Cologne: Ralph Lauren Safari for Men

I finally achieved a BBS/DFS shave with this razor. I used a thin slick lather, skin stretching, and two WTG passes. Spine of the razor near touching the face, short strokes and firm pressure (more "confidently" rather than "heavy handed," and yes, there is a difference). The shave was really smooth and is definitely my best outing yet with this particular blade. I stropped the blade for about 30 seconds before the shave, and for about a minute after the shave.

I subscribe to the "less is more" theory of shaving, and the Rolls is a very good razor system indeed. People overthink it, ignore the first principles of shaving, (pressure, angle, and lather), ignore the directions, skip basic maintenance, and then wonder why they can't get a good shave with a Rolls.

...and yes, I swapped the razors. The nickel set is in the stainless set's travel case. I prefer that leather covered case over the blue leatherette and chrome snap case that is fairly common.

Edit: Some people try to use these without strop dressing. You can get away with this only if you hone outside the case on a 10 to 12k stone. The edge off one of those stones is refined enough to skip using strop dressimg, though the blade will still need to be stropped. If you don't have strop dressing or strop dressing alternative, you won't be shaving with a Rolls Razor.

 

That's part of the problem. When used properly, it's not difficult to get good shaves from it.

There's a shaver over on B&B who has been using the same blade in his Rolls (and he is an almost exclusively Rolls razor user) for over 60 years. His strop is original, his hone was replaced about 50 years ago (after he dropped and broke the original). It really is a lifetime bit of kit.