Lessons from an L-Plater

Discussion in 'Shave School' started by ChrisB, Dec 11, 2022.

  1. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    "Once I have that down pat, I can start trying my Muhle Rocca, and Merkur Progress. Next year maybe."

    Smart. Learn with what you have, not changing things around too soon or too often.
     
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  2. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    Yes, exactly. Rotary buffing. If that freaks you out, you can just do normal blade buffing on that spot and skip subsequent passes over it.

    It very much is like a martial art, that you practice, alone. With yourself. On yourself.
    Once you get past the "new" stage, after a few months you will get good shaves, even occasionally a perfect shave.

    The difference between an amateur wet shaver and an expert is this. The amateur is working on perfecting his or her shave. The expert does this without mistakes, flawlessly, without even thinking about it. Switching blades, razors, soaps, and brushes and transitioning from one to another without a care in the world.

    I've been wet shaving for nearly 20 years. I'm fairly close to expert level, by the standards I set. I'm not there yet.
     
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  3. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Ah yes too right @PLANofMAN ! Nice thought, that...

    {...those were the days, ~40 yrs ago, my 3rd set, American white oak, backyard, night time, eyes closed, half-moon stance, didn't take too long to find the knuckles!

    Planning on less damage these days LOL!}

    Edit: Image removed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2023
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  4. brit

    brit in a box

    very cool.:)i started in 1981 at 14 ,but with bic disposables and canned foamy.a truly crap way to start.but i figured it it out.the problems came with multiblades..:)
     
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  5. brit

    brit in a box

    for me it gets the most with fewer passes.i used to do 3.but only based on my growth pattern.if it grew in multiple directions it may not work.i will say also..it takes time for your skin to adapt.a raw shave at first the right way doesn't mean you did it wrong.it takes a few shaves in the same way.one day at a time..it will improve.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2022
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  6. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Dec 26th 2022
    Happy Boxing Day!

    Today I did something I have been wondering about for a while...can my DE wet shave get as smooth as my electric shave?
    I would say that a month ago the best/smoothest shaves I had were with the electric foil shaver, using really wet lather and going in all directions.
    I still thought that no ways could wet shaving get as smooth.

    So I went half and half:

    1. Right side of face dry shave with foil electric shaver, minimal pressure, going in all directions, until I felt it was done, all cleaned up.

    2. Left side of face with my usual Muhle R89, usual hot water prep, Proraso blue pre-shave and my favourite shaving cream TOBS tobacco leaf.
    Two day stubble. Astra SP day 4 still feels sharp. Two passes and touch ups, then ATG in the areas that tolerate this: left cheek and under lower lip. Thayer's both sides.

    I must say the shave is better on the left with DE/wet compared to the right. Even getting some areas of BBS, no nicks cuts weepers lumps or bumps.
    A few hours later the left (DE shave) definitely feels better.
    On the right (done with the electric shaver) the shave and the skin were not quite as smooth. Still very good though. Except the neck area below the level of the adam's apple, where I am still only going WTG and XTG with the R89/Astra SP at this stage. In this area the right side was smoother.

    Conclusion: Either I am getting better with the wet shave, or I should have done the right side with some slick lather.
    Either way the electric shaver results are good and likely good enough for a quick pre-work shave.
    It may not be quicker because you still need to clean, brush and rinse the electric shaver afterwards anyway.

    But, the wet-shaved left side of face is definitely smoother and much more satisfying and way more fun.

    Up to now I have felt the wet shave stubble feels sharper when it grows back over the next day or two. I will wait until tonight and tomorrow morning to see if the stubble on both sides feels the same, or one side feels sharper.

    Question 7: Do you Exfoliate, yes or no?
    On the recommendation of some shaving sites I saw somewhere, I bought some exfoliating cream last week and used it once.
    Is there any point to this? Surely we are taking off thin layers of skin too when we get a close shave, so does this not amount to blade induced exfoliation?
    Thoughts?
     
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  7. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    If you've done it right, a wet shave will feel smoother an hour after the shave, than immediately after the shave. This is particularly true with shavettes and straight razors.

    If you feel the need to exfoliate your nose and forehead, go for it. Using a brush and single blade razor, doing multiple passes is all the exfoliating a wet shaver needs on the lower half of the face.

    The exception is if you are prone to ingrown hairs, then yes, you may need to exfoliate more often.

    This can be a bit counter intuitive. Some people exfoliate because they have oily skin, except exfoliating causes the skin to over produce oil to compensate for the exfoliation, causing oily skin.

    A post shave skin toner splash, like witch hazel, will probably serve you better in the long run, if you are concerned about skin health. It will keep you from developing turkey wattles in your old age, if you care about that sort of thing.
     
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  8. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    My opinion is as PLANofMAN, the the brush and razor do plenty of exfoliating by themselves. Anything more is overkill and may (emphasis may) not be good for your face.
     
  9. ischiapp

    ischiapp New Product Bloodhound

    No. I don't use any specific product.

    Yes. I do face lathering and shave daily.
    When my dermatitis strikes back, I use exausted coffee powder to gently scrub the other areas.
    In the shaving areas, the brush and the edge are enough for me.
     
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  10. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Well, being stubborn, I exfoliated last night before going to bed. I figured, I have the product, I might as well use it. Only one way to find out.
    Shaved this morning. Reasonably good shave, day 5 with the Astra SP, skin did feel a bit more tender, maybe the combo of the 5 day old blade and the exfoliation, who knows. Stopped at 2 passes and some touch ups and left some stubble around the left lower chin.

    Lesson learnt.
    Anyway, I still have the product, thankfully it was on the cheap side, so as mentioned above, I guess I can just use on rest of my face and back of my neck, and leave the brush and razor to do the rest.

    A novel use of coffee powder, I must say it makes sense, the commercial exfoliators all have some kind of organic abrasives in them.

    I have heard of putting used coffee grounds in the garden as mulch or plant feed, might try some on my balding spot!
     
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  11. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Dec 27th 2022.

    Day 5 with the Astra SP, just starting to tug a bit, still managed a good enough shave. Skin starting to feel a raw around the sides of the chin after 2 passes and some touch ups, called it a day and just enjoyed the parts of the face that were nice and smooth.

    Slowly learning which areas are the more challenging and how to work around them.

    (BTW: The other side of the face done with the electric shaver yesterday clearly had more stubble, so I am happy with where I am at the moment as I learn more about wet shaving. Progress!)
     
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  12. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    @PLANofMAN #21 of this thread https://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/on-blades-coatings-etc.66939/page-2 you mentioned different waters.

    Well anecdotally anyway, I think using our reverse osmosis (RO) water makes a difference.
    Not scientific of course; the best I could do was mix up 2 lathers with the same starting points and just using different water.
    Definite impression is the RO water lathers quicker faster and better.

    Looking online, our Perth, Western Australia water is quite hard, but don't know enough how to test it. I do know it tastes terrible, and when the filter guys replace the RO filters annually they are clogged brown, lots of ferrous stuff in the water here. You can spot the houses here with bore water: the walls and fences discolour brown fairly fast. We only use the RO water in our coffee machine.

    I could only control for the use of the same shaving soap, the same 1.0 gram of the soap tared off on the scale, the same boar brush, the same 'dryness' of brush before soaking the brush, leaving the same amount of water in the brush and going from there. The end point of when the lather is 'right' is more problematic to measure. 3 minutes with the tap water and 90 seconds with the RO water to get to where I wanted it to be. Don't know the science behind this, but I am convinced enough to know I will stick with RO water.
    1 gram.jpg
     
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  13. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    It's something to do with how soap forms bubbles, I think. I haven't written that chapter yet.

    You've already seen the conclusion, though. You can get equal results, it might just take a bit longer.

    There is an old thread over on Badger & Blade discussing water hardness and Mitchell's Wool Fat shaving soap. I'll see if I can track it down and add the link.

    Edit:
    https://www.badgerandblade.com/foru...ool-fat-water-sensitive-answer-inside.458599/

    Edit: lather goes though stages. Big bubbles, small bubbles, whipped topping, and whipped yoghurt. I'm not sure there is such a thing as an over-whipped lather.

    Overly dry lather is a thing, though.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2022
  14. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    @PLANofMAN Wow, that's a good thread, thanks for pointing me over there. Clearly I am coming late to the party! Seems more interesting/complex than I thought. I do know we have added Chlorine to our water in Perth, and coffee experts also suggest to allow the tap water to stand overnight to allow this to diffuse/evaporate off. Another variable! They likely also add Fluoride to our water here, too many variables to bother about.

    29th December 2022
    Two day growth, Muhle R89, Muhle Raserkultur blade Day 1. Pure Badger brush.
    TOBS Tobacco. This reacts completely differently than the Mr Taylor's Shaving Cream. Needed the water from the brush AND an additional 6 cc water and then more!

    Hmm yup, already had that issue a few times, when it dries before the end of the first pass.

    Lesson 1 of the Day: I think I need to get the lather more glossy, paint like, like milk just before the latte art. If it dries half way through the 1st pass >> rough shave. No good. The lather starts to sound different just before it comes right, more sloppy like...?

    Lesson 2 of the Day: the Muhle blade 'aint bad, not nearly as sharp as the Astra, but smoother, and I could afford to do more passes and touch ups with less "raw skin." Easier to navigate around the chin area with no damage. Will take it for a second run and see how it goes.

    Really satisfying shave, though. Still a few red spots left lower neck, but Thayer's 3x during the day almost cleared that up.
    It will be a while before I can tackle the lower neck with more than a WTG pass and a XTG pass. Or maybe too much sun damage means I never will. I will try using even less less pressure here.

    @brit thanks for the encouragement, the learning curve continues...so little time.
     
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  15. brit

    brit in a box

    :):eatdrink047:
     
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  16. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    30 Dec 2022

    Yep, still too impulsive, but got have some fun.

    After reading the above thread in #53 about lathering (amongst others), while I was washing my face with Shea butter soap this morning... I thought: Hmmm? can I get this to lather? And maybe shave with it?

    butter Shea Butter Soap.jpg

    Loaded the brush from the bar for around 30 seconds, added to bowl, adding tap water as I went, looked ok.
    Should I apply this to face? Why not? feels ok. Shrug.
    Should I try shaving, I can always bail out....
    Added blade to R89 and before I knew it, I had completed the shave.

    shea1.jpg
    Growth: 1 day
    Lather Bowl: Blue op-shop bowl.
    Brush: Pure Badger, quick dunk in the sink
    Razor: R89
    Blade: Muhle (2)
    Face Prep: quick soap wash, cold water.
    Pre shave: None!
    Shaving Soap: Shea butter soap! Loaded brush off the bar around 30 secs, then into the bowl, adding tap water on the trot, as it were.
    Passes: mainly WTG, the XTG in some areas, then XTG (the other way), one or two areas ATG.
    Post Shave: Warm then cold-water rinse, then Thayer’s unscented, (lots of), rubbing in ATG.
    Aftershave: Nivea Sensitive for Men, rubbing in ATG

    Result: a pretty good shave actually. Just one tiny weeper on chin, cleared on its own after cold water rinse.

    Cold water prep and shave is not as comforting but is a different experience. Not sure I would have done this with a sharper blade/more efficient razor.
    I will come back to this at a late date.

    Question to self? Am I spending too much on expensive shaving soaps and creams?

    Learning Point of the Day: slowly mapping out my face into Zones and trying to stick to that routine.
     
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  17. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    My grandfather shaved with tag ends of bar soap. As far as I know, right up until he switched to electric shaving.

    His grandson, (me) sees nothing wrong with spending $50 on a soap that will last a year. My wife, bless her heart, does. Seems she spent my soap budget on her $100 shampoo.
    :angry019:

    Creams are lovely things. Strongly scented and a joy to lather. Also a huge waste of money compared to a triple milled soap. The same can be said of croaps too. The exception is some regional stuff in Europe and Northern Africa, Egypt, Hungary and the like. Between $1.50 and 2.00 a tube. Good stuff, hard to find in the U.S.

    Then there's Xpec. Doesn't get much traction around here, but is (or was) considered to be one of the best shaving creams ever made. It was selling for $80 a few years ago. The price has dropped down to a more reasonable $65, lately. I've never tried it. It's still sold, so apparently people think it's worth it.

    One thing I have found is that the "higher end" stuff generally lasts a lot longer, and tends to be more concentrated. They also spend more money on fragrance.

    Once I discovered Kiss my Face shaving cream, it pretty much ended my other shaving cream purchases. I can usually find it at health food stores in my area, so I don't wind up doubling the cost in shipping. The pumps on the pump bottles tend to be hit or miss, so I save a working pump from an empty bottle in case one doesn't work. It's one of the best 'bang per buck' shave creams out there.
     
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  18. swarden43

    swarden43 "It's your shave. Enjoy it your way."©

    You're spending too much on shaving stuff when you can no longer cover the bills for utility, house, food, medical, etc.

    There's plenty of inexpensive shaving gear out there that can be a joy to use and still give you a close, comfortable shave.
     
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  19. ChrisB

    ChrisB Well-Known Member

    Hi Steve, thanks for the comment, perhaps a bit of a rhetorical question of course, but you are right I am not mortgaging the house quite yet! Even if this hobby goes overboard it would still be one of the cheapest ones I have ever had. TOBS 150 gram tub for AUD 35 or so, around 150 to 200 shaves, that's way less than a dollar a day! At this stage I only have about 7 soaps/creams with many more that look exciting to try! Bring on the New Year. Just need to avoid the urge to get more razors, (Brain to Heart: you only need one razor, you only need one razor, you only need one razor.......). The vintage ones seem to be hard to get around here. Only found one Rolls Razor in an antique store last week, didn't even bother to look at it. Might have to go online at some stage.

    No shave for 2 days, BBQ with friends y'day, giving my face a rest today, spent some time with my eldest today. Tomorrow is another day, and another Year.

    All the best for 2023 for everyone here on this great forum.
     
  20. PLANofMAN

    PLANofMAN Eccentric Razor Collector Staff Member

    Moderator Article Team
    +1

    Being envious of other people's shave stuff is the quickest way to suck the joy out of a new hobby.
    How come you didn't bother to look at it? They can be a bit of pain in the arse to tune back up, but once fettled, make nice shavers.
     
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