A local monastery was closing up, and I went to the estate sale. I was delighted to find a commercial grade toaster for a mere $50 dollars. I was less delighted to find it requires specialized connections. It is a NEMA 6-15P connection, rated for 208 volts. Can I use an adapter to run it off the clothes dryer outlet, or is this something I would need to call an electrician to deal with? Alternatively, can I rewire two 110 volt outlets to supply the needed power to a NEMA outlet? I'd like to be able to use the toaster, but I'd rather not burn down my house in the process. We have 10 people living in the household, and making 20 pieces of toast for a breakfast meal is a major holdup in the mornings. I'd like to think that this toaster would speed that process up considerably. Edit: it also came with 3 spare elements, and from the "patent pending" verbiage on the back, assume it's from the late 1970's.
I wouldn’t make an adapter. Besides, you might need to have toast and dry clothes at the same time. Google some how-to’s and see if you feel comfortable doing the work before calling an electrician. In the days before the interwebs I learned to do electrical stuff with a library card. Running a single 208 to your kitchen normally isn’t too difficult.
Wouldn't sticking all that bread under the broiler just be easier? Otherwise, I'm guessing it would be definitely better to speak to a professional.
-- Well then, It's set up for 208 and is the correct voltage for a 3 phase service. Not knowing what the internal circuit is makes it impossible to determine if a rewire is possible. I have to assume that the heating coils are specifically built for each voltage listed in the instructions. But still maybe not. Sometimes parts for commercial restaurant equipment can be purchased and that might help convert the unit if you buy 120 or 240 volt heating coils. Have you checked to see if any of the spare elements are labeled 120v? If by chance you can get the correct parts Remember, 120 volts at 16 amps require a 20 amp breaker, #12 wire, 20 amp receptacle with the correct power plug. 240 volts requires a new line run in most cases. Running it off the 240 / 220 house voltage without correct modifications could make it a fire hazard because it would increase the element temperature that it isn't designed for. Not knowing your knowledge or experiences in such matters this is the best I can help. Your question does seem to me that you might need some expert help in this matter. Good luck! Be safe!! Edit.... Oh, the plug pictured is correct for 208 volts. tp
This might help you convert it to 120v. Look on ebay at this part. SAVORY ELEMENT, TOASTER (120V, 328W) PART NUMBER 51098 Savory model PD-4
First of all, very cool toaster. Second, this appliance should be on a dedicated circuit - meaning the load is on its own circuit. Not shared with other loads in your home. Go look at your panelboard. If you have two spaces in your panel, one above the other, then we can start. The project will involve running 2 #12 AWG and 1 #12 Ground from a new receptacle to your panelboard. Use copper wire. You'll need a NEMA 6-15R receptacle and a 2-pole 20 Ampere circuit breaker in the two spaces in your panel, one over the other. You'll have cutting, patching, and painting, the receptacle, a face plate, cable, and the circuit breaker. You'll need to update the panel directory showing the new load. All of this assumes you are not at the limit of your existing panel. Most homes can accommodate a new 11 ampere load, but not all. I would get quotes from a few electricians. I had a dedicated 20 Ampere circuit put in for an old rolling-type linen/sheets tabletop iron for my wife but it was part of a larger electrical upgrade in my home so I don't have estimated costs for you. Maybe a few hundred dollars. Good luck!
Nuns, actually. And, yes, they set it up as a monastery. Odd, I know. I have 5 empty spots, but also an unused 2-pole 50 amp and two unused 2-pole 20 amp breakers in the box. A legacy left over from when the building was being used as part of an illegal marijuana grow operation back in the 1990's. Sounds like something I could do myself, then call in an electrician to certify it and make it all legal.
Yes. But some people like their toast light, and some dark. Also, gas oven, so the broiler tends to heat the center way more than the outer edges. It's a pain to use, even for french toast. ...and it's usually being used to cook part of the meal too. It came with the house. It's a bit more extravagant than anything we would have gone with. Other than the broiler heating unevenly across the width, no complaints. It's just easier to use a toaster. If the world was a decent place, a modern version of the Sunbeam automatic "magic eye" radiant control toaster would exist, but alas, the old ones don't toast bagels, or larger slices of bread. If I ever win a huge lottery jackpot, a modern version of that toaster will be coming back to the market, energy efficiency be damned. Toast should be crispy on the outside, and soft and fluffy on the inside. Modern toasters heat way too slowly and just dry the bread out, imo.
Nice stove!! I have found that Commercial cooking products work and hold up better than the box store appliances. I admit that all of mine I bought new or refurbished from factory stock. I tend to stay away from older units that I may not be able to get parts for. The toaster I bought new cost over 100 bucks but it can do over 200 slices an hour and does 4 slices of bread at one time. It has large openings for beagles too. It's a 120 volt at 1800 watts so it takes a single 20 amp circuit and because it's close to the sink I have a GFI outlet for safety. But, I think, if you look around at restaurant equipment stores, you should be able to find what you need. Everything in restaurant equipment is 3 to 5 times the price because it has to be NSF certified, but normally worth the extra cost. Look on Amazon for and "restaurant equippers". Getting a deal for commercial equipment isn't the norm. But unless you can run a 208 circuit for the unit you have, it may cost you more than the price of a new commercial unit you can just plug in and go. I look at the voltage, frequency (it needs to work at 60 Hz) and current or wattage. Some things are 50Hz, that's european power standard and will not work in North America unless, it says 50/60Hz. 120 or 240 volts at 60 Hz. For #12 wire and a 20 amp breaker. 120 volts needs to be 2000 watts or less. If in amps, it needs to be under 18 amps at 120 volts. Most will be 1500 to 1800 watts for 120 volt units. 240 volts needs a new circuit ran and so far I haven't had the need. Commercial equipment is at much higher level of goods so knowing what you want and can use is prime. I have 5 separate 120v 20 amp circuits in my kitchen along with a gas cook top and gas oven. Welcome to commercial cooking. Hope this helps some. tp
The following calculation won't work with motors or electronics, but it will work for a simple resistive device like a heater or toaster. The toaster's internal resistance is: R=V/I =208/12.8 =16.25 ohm. If you adapt it to plug into a standards 110Vrms wall socket it will draw: I= V/R =110/16.25 =6.77A. This is less than a standard 10A breaker, or the 15A one found in most residential kitchens. So you should be OK adapting the plug this way. Unfortunately, the heat dissipated will only be: P =I*V =6.77*110 = 744W. Which is a lot less than the 2600W your toaster says it is. So, you probably won't burn the house down. But your toast won't be as toasty as you might hope.
I like your philosophy on appliance buying! I can't resist asking! Don't you have trouble keeping those beagles from climbing out?
The secret is to put their treats at the bottom of the toaster slots and then set the toaster on high.
I say that and then realize I have a commercial coffee grinder and a commercial water filtration unit (to make better coffee). Never mind ....... carry on.
