It sounds counter-intuitive, but I've heard from Feather users that it does very well in aggressive razors.

I've used Nacets and Perma-sharps (gold), which are supposed to be as sharp as a Feather, after the first shave or 2. I don't think I've used them with the Parker 99R, though.

I've read so much how the Feather blades are only good for 1 or 2 shaves, then they need to be binned.

I don't see that.
Feathers are as sharp as they will be right out of the package.
I need sharp blades to get a comfortable shave.
I use Feather blades exclusively in my DE razors.
I get a great shave with a blade then it's done with that blade.
Only when I use a dull blade does it effect the quality of the shave for me.
In my case the roughness of the shave depends on where the angle is at, all razors are different somewhat too.


I say efficiency is in the blade, aggression is in the hand.
Don't care for that aggressive razor, tilt it for more top cap.
Knowing that the blade does all the work, that thing you call a razor is just a blade holder, nothing more, nothing less.

Now go tame those razors and blades to get a wonderful shave.
Good luck!
Edit.......

So looking at the picture you posted with the line drawn from the top cap to the safety bar is misleading.
the line should be drawn from the top cap to thr edge of the blade.
this means the safety bar should never touch the skin.
At least that's how I see it and hopefully use it.


tp

Hmmmm..
I use Astra SP blades and generic blades marketed to the military BX/PX exclusively, probably for the last 10 years. I have 30-some-odd DEs, all get used in a rotation that is very seldom broken. Every razor is different; some mild, some aggressive, some easier to get darn near bbs than others, though I have achieved darn near bbs with all of them.
All that to say, I'm still pondering your statement, "aggression is in the hand." Not sure if I agree. While it may be to some extent, I believe the razor plays a larger role.

Selling my Weber

That's the definition of exposure.

One of my pics does just that.

I think some razors give the ability to be aggressive, but in the right hands they will not be. The safety bar is aptly named -- it provides safety from the blade digging into your skin if you make a mistake. When your technique is up to snuff, you can still get a mild shave with a blade-forward razor with a big gap.

Proper technique can also get you as close a shave as you want with the mildest of razors -- not blade-forward, and very small gap. If you make a mistake, it will be very hard to cause irritation or draw blood (but it can still happen in extreme cases.) After all, a mild razor still cuts hair, and definitely still touches the skin. There is no reason you cannot get a BBS with one. Some may prefer a large gap because they are not daily shavers, and need the extra gap to prevent clogging.

Some people like razors at different points on the aggression scale because it is their preference. Which razor they choose for the job is not wrong.

Edit: Oh, I thought you were just letting us know you were selling it.

Yep, wish I still had that razor. That was my worst choice. But...$$$

Consistency. I changed up a lot of elements when I first began my journey into wet shaving. Should of stuck with keep it simple.

Actually you jumped in when wetshaving was just starting to make it's big comeback. You could barely find anything in the stores other than Carts, and shave gel. You did alright

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Been saying that for years...

Yes, but some razors hold the blade better than others.

I've heard of the Weber, but have never looked into it. Now I'm intrigued.

I'm proud to say that I have never made any mistakes with wet shaving! I have only made educational opportunities from which I could learn and grow!

- Bax

Selling these was a pretty stupid mistake. (Believe me, there were more...)

Well said.

My 1912 Dammy is like a straight razor on a stick

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