Something to keep in mind when it comes to re-plating work on razors or refinishing anything your house a car and so on. * First and foremost I do believe that the biggest part of quality razor plating is the attention to detail in the prep work done to the razor followed by proper plating process and procedures. Also that old saying garbage in garbage out plays into it and only so much can be done here with a super worn old razor. The general quality of the razor going in plays a lot into it. If it’s just worn or aged plating with proper prep and detail you can get a great looking razor back with a quality reputable plating vender. If a quality plating vender gets a razor to re-plate that is extremely corroded and all pitted up you will get a lesser quality looking razor back. Again the key in my opinion is detailed prep work and a quality plating vender with at least a good/fair condition razor to start with. Of course all bets are off with a pour quality plating vender. Happy Shaves To Everyone, Bill G
Pictures For Comparison. Here is another pic of my 1959 E-1 Fat Boy revamp done by Razor Emporium. The razor on the left is the Fat Boy that was revamped by Razor Emporium. The Fat Boy on the right is my original condition 1959 E-2 razor that has never been touched other than clean up and sterilization. * As mentioned the finish on the revamp looks original I cannot tell any difference. Happy Shaves To All, Bill G
Hi team, Just a heads-up that I still offer restoration/replating services for Safety and Straight Razors too. Originally from UK (onotoman) and now in New Zealand since 2015. https://www.aucklandrazor.com/vintage-safety-razor-replating-and-restoration Best wishes from 'Middle Earth'
I just found out that one of the two Slims I had replated by a very, very well regarded vendor as my last year’s birthday gift to myself had a pretty large gap discrepancy on one side. I always had worse shaves with that Slim compared to the second one, but visually everything looked ok. I initially blamed it on my lack of experience with vintage razors. After all, the service included tune up and checking the safety bars for straightness, the razor could be nothing but perfect. However, as I got better technique I realized that all of my vintage Gillettes were working better and better for me - except that one. So earlier this week, I’ve ordered a set of feeler gauges and checked the gaps at four points (two per side, roughly where the lather slots are). At setting 3, I measured .022”, .022”, .022” and… wait for it… .034”. That’s a huge gap difference at a low setting. No wonder I was getting cuts and nicks with the razor set at 4-6. Luckily, the second Slim was good. Of course, the “bad” one was the fancier two-tone job… So… trust but verify. Check blade gaps before sending the razor in, and note any issues that the vendor needs to address. Check the gaps afterwards to make sure it was done.
Well, here you go. Get to work on that Slim, and make some.adjustments. Here is how. https://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/fixes-for-fatboys-slim-adjustables-etc.65448/ .
Thanks. It sucks that I had to do that with a nicely replated razor... it did leave a few marks on the safety bar (which I can see) and on the inside (which I don't see unless I squint so it doesn't bother me as much). Oh well, it is what it is. The lesson learned, and an advice to anyone thinking about having their razors "professionally" replated - buy a set of gauges (they are cheap) and take careful measurements before and after.
So, the adjustments you made worked? I found if I go with very slight changes at a time, it works better in the long run. Less chance of over correcting and bowing the safety bar out, which leads to even more possible issues.
Not 100% yet but it's better now, at least the gap difference is less. I need to think of what tool to use, as I've already damaged the finish on the safety bar somewhat with a butter knife. I'll just set this razor aside for a while and take a deep breath for now.