My Straight Shave Saga (continues...)

Shaving with the grain first will help reduce a lot of razorburn.

Shaving my neck is the hardest place to shave against the grain for me. I usually just shave somewhat with and across the grain in one pass for a great combination of smoothness and comfort

 

I've always had good success with TOBS creams. Are you sure you have enough water in your lather? And don't forget to relather frequently.

James.

 

+1...I have the most trouble on my neck too, but unless you're a contortionist, you will have to settle for across the grain in some spots and if you really want to be smooth, you might have to touch up with a DE.

Glad to hear it's going better, olafurson.

 

Olafurson - with your introduction to the shave den being an intriguing exposition on expensive fragrances, you now find Aqua Velva AWESOME????

Pls explain!

 

Shave #7:

Not the SCENT, silly - the tactile experience. Perfumes don't generally sit there on your skin cooling and burning and numbing and cooling again before they settle down into their fragrance. Aqua Velva, on the other hand, has a JOB to do before it smells good.

Say what you will about its fragrance, Aqua Velva did what it was supposed to do, and did so with panache.

Anyways, onto Day 7:

Sir Irisch Moos shave soap
shave
warm water
cool water
Floid Italian aftershave

WoooOOOOOOOO!!! Now THAT's a shave soap. Holy crap, I think my fingers remained lubricated throughout the rest of the day just from coming in contact with this soap. I've never, EVER felt something so darn persistently slippery. This stuff seriously rivals that silicone-lube idea I was talking about in that other thread, as far as resisting drag. What do they put in this stuff!?!?

That damn, stupid under-my-nose. I swear. I can literally hear the razor "pinging" off of the individual hairs instead of cutting them. Is my hair really that hard to cut?

I've got a second razor on the way, we'll see if that makes a difference.

Floid Italian rocks even more than Aqua Velva. Smooth, smelled good, cooling menthol... dudes, you don't know how good you have it with this whole using menthol idea. Everything that ever touches my face from now on must be loaded with menthol. Kick-ass!

 

Shave #8:

Palmolive shave cream
shave/warm water/cool water
La Toja aftershave

So, I received two tubes of shaving cream in the mail yesterday: Musgo Real and Proraso. I already know the Proraso is going to be my favorite, because after that weird-ass eucalyptus top note, it settles nicely into just, plain, SOAP.

Musgo Real, with its lanolin base.... I smeared a bit of both creams onto my finger tips, and the MR dried out MUCH faster. I thought lanolin was supposed to be the good hydrator? Proraso's coconut oil seems to have it beat.

Anyways, I had a little sample of Palmolive to use, and honestly was hoping it would suck - therefore narrowing down my choice of which cream to use every day.

But it didn't suck. Now, it didn't kick ass and take names like the Proraso Red did, but it was still... adequate. I guess "palmolive" isn't cool/manly enough a name for me to buy a tube, but it was still fun to try.

Niiiiiiiiice technique today, if I do say so. Not a single, SINGLE bleeder today. Silky smooth on both cheeks, pretty damn good under my nose (still had to trim a few with the ol' cuticle scissors). Neck was probably as good a job as I've done, though it still feels like yesterday's electric shave. Does anybody ever get BBS smooth with a straight on their neck? Is it even possible?!?

Wow, the La Toja was a different experience altogether. It didn't cool my face like the Floid/AV do, it actually WARMED it. And warmed it, and warmed it... I could totally see using this in the winter, but since I was expecting the whole "cooling menthol" thing, it threw me off. Still very pleasant, and a CRAZY strong scent for an aftershave (really getting into this "old time scent" thing).

Believe it or not, I didn't even put cologne on afterwards. Imagine!

20 minutes later, face feels like gold. Well, unless I touch it of course, then it still burns for a second or two. This happen to you other guys?

I think I might actually be getting the hang of this!

 

Colognes:

For some reason, I haven't been listing the scent I wore to go with the shaves, so just for the sake of completeness, here's the last few:

Shave #4 and before... don't remember.
Shave #5: J. Peterman 1903
Shave #6: Rive Gauche pour Homme
Shave #7: Bulgari Aqua
Shave #8: nuthin!

 

It's possible but I am almost ashamed to say it isn't worth it for me. The acceptable line I have found between closeness and comfort on my neck leaves stubble perceptible to the touch against the grain, but still looks great

 

Ah HAH. The truth comes out. Come on, fellas, fess up - who agrees with this?

 

Oh I've got a lot more truth if you'd like to know more, and I'll even waive the usual application fee - pm me for my paypal address

 

when I first started straight shaving - I wasn't getting that close ... but now - with a sharp, well stropped razor.. stretching the skin tightly with ATG pass ... my face and neck are softer and smoother than any shave I've ever had.. it feels like my skin has been reborn ! hallelujah !!

so keep trying ... you will reach face nirvana yet !

 

Shave #9:

TSD Vetiver shave stick
followed closely by...
TOBS Mr. Taylor shave stick
shave/warm water/cool water
Master Well Comb's "Challenge" aftershave

I'm sorry, your highness, I really am. Obviously, today's shave stick failure was because of my poor technique, and I apologize for my ignorance.

In my hands (eg: on my face) the TSD vetiver stick hardened instantly into a powdery mess. It sucked so bad that I had to literally wash it off midway through my first pass, and apply the TOBS Mr. Taylor to finish the shave.

And the TOBS wasn't much better.

I guess I'm with you guys, in that glycerine based soaps like TOBS are simply not as long-lasting, and as lubricating as are soaps like Tabac. That's the thing with glycerine - it lubricates great for about five minutes, then it dries into a sticky mess.

Me? This newbie'll stick with oil-based products, I think.

Now, onto the shave.

What the HECK is with this razor, that I can't finish a third pass without feeling like I'm scraping my skin off with a dull-edged rock? Seriously?! I seriously am NOT going to strop midway through a shave. I simply refuse. DagNAbit!

I really hope my new razor is better. Or my stropping technique improves. SOMETHING.

I tell you what, though, I kept on scraping and scraping until I got darn near 80% of the lenth of my neck hair off. Razor burn be damned, I'm going to get a close shave with a blade if it kills me.

And speaking of burn....

Of all the Master's line, Challenge is the only one remotely tolerable as a standalone fragrance. Even my wife (whose nose is INFINITELY more acute than mine) agrees.

Here's the thing, though. Its ingredients are water, alcohol, fragrance and glycerine. No menthol whatsoever. And I'm really beginning to like the menthol.

I held a puddle of this stuff in my hand, KNEW it was going to roast my face, closed my eyes, clenched my jaw, and RUBBEDITINTOMYSKINREALFAST!!!

And it BUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRRRNNNNNNNNNED! OWWWWWWWWW!

Then settled down into a dull sizzle, then a mild throbbing warmth, then a warm tropical breeze, then into simply the finest cheap-ass generic-brand woody vetiver smell I think I've ever experienced.

Maybe my enjoyment of the scent had something to do with the endorphines released when the alcohol burned off yet another layer of my tender face skin, I don't know. Whatever it was, something about the Challenge fragrance sent me into smelly nirvana.

Buy it. Try it. Love it.

 

Keep at it. Also note that your expectations will change as you get better at wielding the blade. What was a decent shave last month, will be a crappy shave now. Pay attention to your technique - blade angle, pressure, etc. It all changes as you learn.

Have you bought another razor yet? :happy102

Jordan

 

Ummmm...... yup. :ashamed001 It's on the way to me now.

Getting me a round-point this time, by gum.

Shave #10:

Musgo Real shave cream
shave/warm water/cool water/MORE cool water
La Toja aftershave


Woohoo! the big #10! As expected, the Musgo Real was a more than adequate performer. I was actually a little surprised it didn't moisturize more, but whatever.

The La Toja, of course, was warm and burn-y just like before. I noticed I was doing more "scraping" on already-shaven areas today than usual, trying to lop the last bits off the tops of remaining visible hairs. These repeated scrapings leave the shave closer, of course, but obviously add irritation.

The La Toja took my "irritation" and turned it into pain. Ahhh, feel the burn!

All in all, a pretty good shave today. Glad I've stuck with this so far.

Shave time: 35 minutes total for three passes.

Cologne: none. The La Toja is a great smell all on its own.

 

Shave #11:

Antaeus shower gel by Chanel
Proraso green shave cream in a tube
shave/warm/cool water
Aqua Velva Ice Blue aftershave
Antaeus cologne

I needed a pick-me-up this morning, so called in the big guns: my newest fave Proraso, good ol' "the Velva", and my favorite 80's powerhouse, Antaeus by Chanel. I happen to have acquired a bottle of the Antaeus shower gel over the internet from Hong Kong, which is freaking awesome.

Today's shave was LAUGHABLE.

No irritation whatsoever, but I've never cut myself so many times in my life. I even cut my THUMB, for god's sake. I had a visible 2cm cut over my left cheek. VISIBLE. I had so many nicks under my nose that I couldn't count them all. I was so embarassed that I wouldn't even let my wife into the bathroom until I had stopped all the seeping with the (really painful) styptic stick. I looked like a damn fool.

Weirdly, after the carnage stopped.... my face felt pretty good. Yay Aqua Velva!

And of course, finished off with the great fire-breathing dragon in my fragrance arsonal, the venerable Antaeus by Chanel, vintage 80's formulation. What a monster, that stuff!

So yeah, today coulda been better. On the other hand, there really is something particularly (and weirdly) manly and exhilerating about cutting your face up and then dousing your wounds with alcohol... <insert Tim the Tool Man Taylor grunting here>

 

well, sounds like you're pretty persistent. That's always a good trait.

I'm on shave #3 myself but now only using the straight once a week or so. Need time to heal and work up the nerve again.

EW

 

Well, I have a few things going for me that you might not:

1. I only used the Merkur HD that I bought for one week. After that, I figured hell, I'm gonna end up wanting to be a straight razor shaver eventually, why use the "crutch" of the safety razor?

2. I think my vocation is helpful. I'm a veterinarian, so a) I use scalpel blades daily and feel pretty comfortable with unusually sharp knives, and b) I get lacerated/punctured by nails and teeth pretty much daily, so getting nailed by a razor-sharp razor doesn't scare me. Shoot, a slice by a straight razor beats an arm full of (poopy cat-litter encrusted) cat claws any day!

So for some reason, I don't have any fear of being cut by this thing. Maybe that's ignorance on my part, maybe I just expect it as part of the shave.

Somebody on this board put it well - "just remember, your great great grandfather learned how to do this when he was 16".

Anyways, on and on I go. And my face heals pretty darn quick, it seems.

Plus, I'm GOING to learn how to do this so I can teach my kid, dammit. Even if it kills (or hurts on a daily basis) me.

 

In my experience, cuts and nicks occur for only a number of reasons.

First off, and I hate to harp on about this but it is a definite possibility, the razor is not sharp enough. When you use a razor that is not sharp enough, it tends to hang up and pull and struggle through the stubble. This in turn leads the shaver to use more pressure than is necessary, or to hack away a bit with the blade, and increase their chance of nicks and cuts.

Secondly, technique (assuming the blade is shave sharp):

(a) The direction of the blade as it moves across the skin should be generally perpendicular to the spine. Lateral movement of the blade parallel to the spine should be avoided at all costs, particularly when you first start out. People talk of a scything motion with a straight - I would avoid that to begin with.

(b) Blade angle is important - a steep angle will increase the chances of cutting yourself.

(c) The movement (or lack thereof) of the blade on the skin is also a factor with nicks and cuts. I find it best if the blade is in motion just before it touches the skin, and remain in motion until just after it leaves the skin. A shortish, deft stroke minimises the risk of nicks and cuts - try to avoid stopping to adjust hand or arm positions, or modify or adjust your grip, when the blade is on your face. This is the one that always gets me - I get overconfident and change hand position on the fly, or modify my grip halfway through a stroke, and the next thing I know I have a 3 inch cut. Just take the blade away, do your adjustments for the next stroke, line it up off your face, and then decisively shave that bit. It might seem a bit start/stop to begin with, but pretty soon it becomes second nature, and it starts to become a part of your natural stroke.

(d) Stretching. One thing I have heard from people I know who have used DEs is that stretching is not as important as it is with straights. I do not personally know if that is true or not, but I do know that stretching is quite vital with straights. This is not just so that you get a close shave. It is also a way to avoid nicks and cuts: a nicely stretched, flat surface will be a lot easier and safer to shave with an open straight edge than a bumpy or loose surface. Again, make sure that the area to be shaved with a particular stroke is well-stretched beforehand, and the stretch held throughout the stroke. Don't go adjusting the stretch halfway through a stroke.

Anyway, sorry for the verbal diarrhoea. Its just that I have held numerous inquiries into my own cut and nick events and thought I would pass on the results...

I agree with Omegapd - you are persistent, and that is a good thing. And while it is good that you do not fear the blade, a healthy respect for it does not go amiss. It is usually when I start taking my "mastery" for granted that my razors bite me :ashamed001

James.

 

Shave #12:

First shave with my new Goedecke round point.

Tabac shave stick (at the gym today)
WTG, XTG, XTG, ATG, ATG (yup)
Brut aftershave


James, thank you for your advice. Today's shave clinches it - now I own TWO blades that aren't sharp. This is a beautiful razor to look at, but doesn't cut worth crap. And I'm cursing, because I have never honed before and would way rather learn than send out a razor and pay someone else $20 + S&H to do it. But what do I shave with in the meantime??

It took literally five passes to get anything remotely presentable out of this razor. The good news, of course, was that I had little to no irritation, even after five passes, and only cut my chin once (clumsy).

The downside was that I felt like I needed to shave after I shaved.

Dammit.

Now, the Brut, I must say, was a real treat! No burn, great scent! For real! Even this Basenoter, AND DW think it's equal to or greater than many out there. Brut fans, count me as +1.

Little or no menthol sensation, sadly, even though menthol is listed on the ingredients list. I wonder if the French Brut is better than this mexican stuff? I'll have to get me a bottle from across the pond to check...

Did I mention I've been doing ATG under my nose every day? I didn't read until later that the Fools Pass wasn't a good idea. I guess it's true what they say - sometimes not knowing something is impossible, makes it possible.

If I had some dang time in my dang day, I'd pull out my brand-spanking new hones and sharpen this thing, AND my "Barber's Delight". Both of which were sold to me by TSD members who said they were "shave ready". I'm 0 for 2 on that claim so far...

Grrrrrrr..... :mad:

 

Olaf,

I agree with everything that Jimbo posted. I'd be willing to hone up one or both of your razors for you too -- for free -- just cover the shipping. PM me if you're interested.