My Straight Shave Saga (continues...)

Shave #19:

De Vergulde Hand shaving cream
Van Der Hagen "premium" badger-hair brush
Wapi
Floid (italian) aftershave
Pacific Nick Stick (only once!)


So this is what I've decided. If I want a CLOSE shave, as close as my electric razor used to get (yup, I said it) then I must shave my neck over... and over... and over again. Today, I even tried a new trick, which is to smear just a little cream on before each swipe of the razor, scraping off the tips of the beard little by little. I'm CONVINCED my beard is particularly tough ("man, how many blades do you go through in a week, dude?" my barber used to ask)

Hey, it worked. I had some crazy burn with the Floid, but then everything settled down nicely into my closest, most comfortable straight shave yet.

Things that helped:

1. Waiting 48h since last shave. Critical!
2. Good cream. I get where one dude said the DVH burned during use, but it otherwise functioned admirably.

 

Shave #20:

Musgo Real shaving cream
Van Der Hagen premium badger-hair brush
Geodecke 5/8 round-point straight razor honed by xChris (thanks!!!)
Musgo Real aftershave

I experienced something strange and wonderful this morning. Squeezing a dollop of Musgo Real into the little rammekin I was using to create my lather, I felt a sort of calm come over me. The smell of MR is simply weird, right? Medicinal, green, old-fashioned, not particularly comforting on its own. But the thing is, I simply knew that no matter how poorly my razor was functioning, no matter how tired I was, my good old friend Musgo Real was going to protect me from harm, like a little suit of armor on my face.

That stuff freaking ROCKS.

Which is a good thing, because even after xChris's FANTASTIC job bringing an edge to the Geodecke I bought off another TSD member, it STILL was pitifully inadequate at cutting my beard.

I tried the arm-hair test and everything, and it's sharp as a scalpel blade. That's not the problem. It MUST be the hollowness of the blade I don't like. There's no other solution. Apparently I can only use wedge or near-wedge blades like my Wapi.

Don't get me wrong, the Geodecke was a very gentle blade, caused me absolutely no irritation whatsoever. Trouble was, it was NOT a close shave at all. Probably a great starter blade for someone with finer hair than I.

Oh, and the Musgo Real aftershave is among the best-smelling, longest-lasting things I've ever used. Fantastic. No burn at all, very healing, a thing of beauty. I might just have to buy some stock in this company or something.

 

I found this to be true for me as well for months. My beard isn't very light and although I don't think it is unusually tough, I could not get a comfortable shave out of a full hollow for a long time. The wapi was my best friend I found wedges and especially quarter hollows like the wapi to be excellent for my personal combination of style, technique, equipment, beard, and skin

Through much stubborn practice I have found that I can get a very close shave with the grain now with full hollows. (But shaving against the grain with them is still painful and I do not feel worth my effort) In time you can better gauge the exact beard pattern you have and handle the very narrow window of efficiency that the full hollow offers those of us with beards like these. I enjoy reading your diary, keep it up

 

+1 on that! I have the Alcohol Free Original w/ aloe. I don't know if it's the same as the unscented (maybe?) but it doesn't smell like anything at all, certainly not witch hazel. It's always my first A/S to use after my CWR and before my "real" aftershave (splash, balm, scented, etc...)

I only have a full hollow straight that I'm learning with right now. It's been very trying, but I think I'm finally starting to get it. I have a very difficult beard myself (IMO) and it's been recommended I try something a bit heavier like a wedge. I have some that I'll be sending off shortly to get honed, and we'll see what the difference is.

 

I too have found this to be true. Don't give up on the hollows forever - it really is a technique issue that can be learned with patience and practice. When you do, you will wonder what all the fuss over wedges and less-than-full hollows is. Not that I do not love wedges - I do. But variety is the spice of life, no?

James.

 

I'm glad to read that the Goedecke arrived at least. I'm a little disappointed that it didn't produce a "eureka" moment for you. I had high expectations.

I concur with Lee & James. You should hold onto it, tossing it back into rotation, as your skill improves. I think i will be a nice shaver for you once you've got your technique nailed down for it.

I'm curious, though, what grind is the Shumate (that was your first razor, right?)? Isn't it hollow ground too? Do you feel you get the same quality of shave with it, as with the Goedecke?

 

Oh, Chris, don't take any offense please! Your Goedecke is sharper than my Barber's Delight (Shumate), I assure you.

But yes, the BD gives me a closer shave than the Goedecke. It's totally not your fault. The Goedecke just glides over my hair WTG, yet digs into my skin ATG. The BD digs into my skin because sometimes of that darned "square" point, but at least it cuts the hair. Eventually. The Wapi doesn't cut into my skin because it's a round point, and as long as I'm careful, it'll take as many skin (and hair) layers off as I ask it to. Just as a surgical instrument (its original intention) should do.

The BD is a full hollow, the Goedecke is more like 1/2 hollow or 2/3 hollow.

I think the Goedecke is not a quality steel, that's the only conclusion I can come to. You can sharpen it til the cows come home, it's never going to cut like a Wapi. The Barber's Delight, on the other hand, is a poorly designed (shaped) blade that happens to be made with particularly good steel.

The heck if I know. All I know is the Wapi shaves good without hurting me, the Barber's Delight shaves good "at a price", and the Goedecke couldn't give a good shave if I paid it, bought it dinner, AND called it the next day.

 

Here's the thing, James. I do respect where you're coming from, I really do. I spent an entire year on Basenotes "experiencing" all that the fragrance world has to offer. At the end of that period, however, one fact became painfully clear - my favorite fragrances/blades/aftershaves/straight razors/etc. are the ones that just WORK, fancy or not. For me, a Wapi "works". It does the job with a minimum of fuss, and lets me get on with the rest of my day.

Wanna buy a Goedecke? I bet it's like nothing you've ever experienced........

 

to me, the statement "at a price" is a determinant stating that it does not, in fact, shave good. For me, a good shave is one that costs nothing, and I don't mean in $$... Kind of like the word "except." As in, "I like it, except for this (reason)..." Well, then, you don't like it!? Right?

Anyways, I hope you don't take that the wrong way....it's meant tongue-in-cheek. Thanks for documenting your saga. I had hoped to do the same, but changed my mind because I didn't want to bore everyone with every detail about my horrible shaves. Quite ironic, huh? I really enjoy reading about yours! Go figure...

 

No, no offense taken by me. I just had a lot of hope that the new edge would reveal something about straight shaving that you've been missing. Maybe it has, and it's just not what I was expecting it to be.

I agree that the grind is heavier than the usual full hollow, and especially when comparing it to thinner American styles like the Shumate. However, I think the steel is good, based on the indications that I got from honing & test shaving with it. Are you adjusting the blade angle at all to remove the difference in edge presentation because of the different blade grinds?

Ultimately, I think this goes back to a formula of your technique (i.e., style & skill) combined with an appropriate razor (grind, point, width, etc.). Right now, the Wapi marries up with your technique. There's no reason to not improve the fidelity of your shaves with it. Keep using it until you're getting the closeness of the electric -- even on the neck(!). After that, some adventure back into blade variations can begin.

Are you going to get the BD honed up now, and see if that improves its perfomance?

 

Oh, I absolutely agree with what you are saying. It is just that things (RAD) tend to happen, particularly once you have the 'amazing' shave experience for the first time. You start to wonder. And your wallet follows your wonder, and before you know it you have become intimately acquainted with sniping software and start ranting about unscrupulous and unfair ebay bidders... :happy102

No, seriously, if you find the razor for you, and are happy to stick with that, then more power to you. That was certainly my intention when I started using straights. I am now at the point where I am too afraid to count how many I own for fear of proving my wife's initial predictions correct...

James.

 

I would add that I had EXACTLY the same problems with my Wapi giving me great shaves, and a Kropp full hollow not...So I stuck to my wapi for a good month. As my shaves improved I was finding that it was ANGLE that was my big issue.

I eventually went back to the Kropp, which I had been convinced wasn't sharp enough and Lo and Behold--my technique had improved to the point where the Kropp shaves were just as good as the Wapi. I think it works out that full hollows have a sharper learning curve than half or quarter hollows because they have more flex and less mass than the thicker grinds. They NEED better angles.

Just my experiences, it might or might not be the same with you.

 

It could be. There is that narrow window of efficiency that the wedgier razors do not seem to require for me anyway

 

Good morning fellas, and thanks for your input!

So my question is, why do you all bother with hollows at all? Is it just for the "fun" of trying to make the wrong-tool-for-the-job work? Why torture yourself, if a wedge works from the get-go?

Maybe I'm just missing Jimbo's 'amazing' shave...

Obviously hollows were created for a reason, and there certainly must be those out there that PREFER them to wedges. Right?

Why does one buy razors (RAD)? Have you not found one that does the job adequately, or do you just think they're pretty? I mean, don't get me wrong, I'm all about collecting! In this case, though, I'm having trouble rationalizing buying more than one of this particular tool. Do they all function differently enough, shaving close but each in a different way somehow, to make a "rotation" of razors worthwhile? I'm having a hard enough time making ONE work, let alone taming a whole drawer-full.

 

Besides that, Nelson at SRP keeps on this crusade to convince people that everyone that shaved shaved with full hollows for decades and anyone can get a good shave with one. I cannot prove him wrong unless I am satisfied I have not proved him right - which will never happen until I know I can prove him right at which point it is no longer possible to prove him wrong lol

Like I tried to say it is many times no more than a personal preference based on shaving style, beard quality, prep, etc.

 

The only razor I have that's shave-worthy is a full hollow... it's a 6/8 Geo. Wostenholm & Sons "Double Concave" Celebrated IXL...does "Double Concave" mean Extra full hollow or just full hollow? I'm not sure....

Anyways, that's the razor I'm learning with, and although it's been quite a trial and I've often thought about hanging it up, I plugged through and after a month or so I've gotten to where I can get an OK shave. It's definitely very picky about angle and pressure, but in the long run I think it's going to make me a better shaver. I do have some wedges I hope to get out to a honemeister by next week (I'm sanding them right now...), and I've got several others going out to him today (a W&B 7/8 that I think may be a 1/2 hollow, not full hollow; 2 Bokers, and an Autocraft which I believe are all full hollow). The Bokers feel like the blade is stiffer than my Wostenholm's blade. I've also got a W&B Special on it's way back to me from a buddy who wanted to try his honing capabilities (he's honed for himself, but not anyone else yet...). I believe that W&B Special is a full hollow,too.

For me, it's RAD fueled by wanting to find a couple of blades that I really like asthetically and that shave well for me....

 

Shave #21

La Toja shave stick
Vulfix 2233
Wapi
Musgo Real aftershave
Pacific Nick Stick (which failed, and had to resort to...)
...a Toilet Paper square


Man, you guys weren't kidding when you said this straight shaving is a tough business to master.

The La Toja shave stick was a pleasure. Finally something from La Toja I can actually USE and doesn't just smell good (I'm talking to you, evil La Toja aftershave). I also like how it's halfway wrapped with foil so I don't get soap on my fingers. A nice touch. Putting it into a proper twist-up container a la Tabac or Irisch Moos would have made it a winner. But still... probably my second favorite now after IM.

Using my Wapi after yesterday's debacle with the Goedecke was a giant sigh of relief. She glided over my face like a dancer, catching only once at the very base of my neck when I tried pulling a fancy move and got sloppy (hence the TP square). An alllllllllllmost perfect shave, except for the usual micro-nicks and irritation that I'm starting to think come part-and-parcel
with this method of shaving.

And boys, let me tell you. That Musgo Real aftershave got a VERY nice reaction out of my wife last night. She literally couldn't take her nose off me. It does WONDERS with a little body heat. And considering all the colognes I've made DW smell over the past year, getting that kind of reaction out of her is quite an accomplishment. That's some MAN smell right there! olafurson says buy a bottle.

By the way, do any of you know if Musgo Real colognes 1 2 or 3 smell like the aftershave? Are any of them any good? Can one get samples somewhere?

It's really too bad the MR aftershave leaves my face kinda sticky, because I *REALLY* want to make this my go-to company. I know, sticky=moisturized, but still. It's a bit much. MR is the thickest, most viscous aftershave "splash" I've encountered. Great for winter, I bet, but do I want to be sticky in the summer?

 

I guess you have to define what you mean by "works": I have found that definition changes over time, particularly when it comes to shaving with straights.

In any event, hollows are far easier to hone than a wedge for a start. They are also generally lighter in the hand which can make for a less cumbersome shave. Their relative lightness also, in my experience, makes stropping a tad more convenient too. The flexibility in the blade compared to the stiffness of a wedge will also, with practice, allow you to get closer and smoother shaves. I will also go out on a limb here and say that, ceteris paribus, a hollow will take a finer edge than a wedge. That is just my experience, YMMV.

This is just a guess, but I imagine that, like everything, straights went through fashions both in what the user wanted and in how they were manufactured. I've noticed that the old makers mainly made wedges early on, and as technologies advanced you started to see more and more hollow grinds being pumped out etc.

I personally know I get a better shave, stroke for stroke, with a hollow compared to a wedge. I liken it to filleting a piece of meat: you'll get a result if you do it with a meat cleaver but, if you really know how, using a filleting knife will always give the best results.

RAD is a funny thing. I think the "disorder" part probably has some element of truth to it. I have seen some people get RAD before they have even shaved! For others, the acquisition of razors progresses as their technique and what they come to expect from a shaving experience matures and develops - curiosity. Others get curious about how different razors react to the hones, and it becomes about that. And do not forget that this is a "lost art" kind of thing, perhaps moreso than DEs etc. That attracts a certain kind of person, on average. That kind of person most likely wants to get ahold of a few razors...

Different strokes for different folks.

I will say one thing though - even if it is not RAD per se, having a rotation of a few razors is, IMO, a good idea. Spread the load, you know?

James.

 

For me, it is about the differences in the various razors that I have in my collection. There are many that would do fine by themselves if needed, either wedge, or hollow ground. I like having the variety. For me, straight shaving is really an all-around hobby – the shaving, the honing, the restoring.

Nicks and irritation are not a regular part of shaving with an open razor. Mastering the required technique takes time; you're un-learning (previous shave system) and re-learning (open razor) simultaneously.

I've read many recommend applying less of the new formula of Musgo Real, and to wet/damp skin as well. This helps prevent the tackiness. I haven't tried the new (current) formulation, as I've been guarding a bottle sold in the cork box; it acts differently than the available stuff

The Musgo Real colognes are not at all like the aftershave, Each has its own distinct scent.. I actually have all three. Maybe I could enclose a couple of cotton balls soaked in each with the package that I'll be sending your way?

 

Very thoughtful and generous of you, xChris! I would like that.