Eyeballing Aggressiveness

Discussion in 'Safety Razors' started by MadCapsule, Oct 17, 2009.

  1. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member

    Is it possible to estimate if the head of a razor will be more on the aggressive or on the gentle side just by looking at the way it's designed?

    If so, what does one need to look for?

    I'm curious because most of the descriptions for razors that I see on websites that sell them don't specify if it's aggressive or gentle and I would think that would be a pretty important detail that they would want to include.
     
  2. Etoyoc

    Etoyoc Backwards

    Most modern 3 piece safety razors are mild. The Weishi are known to be mild as well. Merkurs are in the middle (unless you get an adjustable). Older model Muhle Pinsels (which I think Mertz still has, unless they are on the new models now) are aggressive.

    You can eyeball it to a degree... but it helps if there is a picture of a blade in the razor. Look for how much gap there is between the razor blade and the safety bar or teeth. The larger the blade gap, the more aggressive the razor tends to be. However the Shave King has a huge blade gap but is extremely mild - so larger gap = more aggressive is not a hard set rule. Another thing to look for is to mentally extend a line from the cap to the safety bar/teeth. How much of the blade is exposed beyond that line? In general, greater exposure = more aggressive. You can also estimate aggressiveness based on the angle that the blade is bent. More bend tends to be more aggressive. Finally, many open comb razors tend to be more aggressive than safety bar razors. However, all these things add up together and sometimes cancel each other out.


    For example, the Shave King has a huge blade gap (should make it extremely aggressive) but no blade exposure (should make it so mild as to be almost impossible to shave with). It is a low profile 3 piece (generally less aggressive) and an open comb (generally more aggressive). All these factors cancel out to make a very mild but fairly affective razor.

    Here is a side picture of a Shave King. Notice the space between the blade and the teeth (blade gap). The red line is the line I was talking about. Notice the blade doesn't extend past the line giving it no blade exposure.
    bladeexposure2 line.JPG (I had this picture handy, so that is why I chose to use the Shave King as my discussion. It isn't a common razor - so don't expect to find one)
     
  3. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member

    Excellent info! Thanks for sharing.

    So, who made the Shave King?
     
  4. Etoyoc

    Etoyoc Backwards

    I wasn't trying to sell you on that razor. It will be tough finding one. I just selected that razor to discuss because I had the picture on my hard drive.

    It was made by the Morton B Farrell Co. I don't know how common they were back when they were made in the 40's. But I have only seen a few come up on eBay and they are usually one of the blurry razors as part of a lot. I have yet to see one come up on an auction that clearly states Shave King. If you want to see more about it click here
     
  5. cooncatbob

    cooncatbob Member

    Your face can tell you better then your eyes if a razor is aggressive or not.
     
  6. Etoyoc

    Etoyoc Backwards

    very true... if only you could try razors before you buy.
     
  7. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member


    Oh, I was just curious about it. I'm pretty much set on getting a Weishi to start with. I just really enjoy learning about this stuff.
     
  8. cooncatbob

    cooncatbob Member

    You carry a blade in your pocket when your out shopping for razor?
     
  9. Etoyoc

    Etoyoc Backwards

    doesn't everyone? Of course, that might be why they won't let me in some of the Chicago buildings now...

    That is why I said it would help if there was a picture of the razor with the blade in the razor. Unfortunately, that isn't the case and you would have to do your best to guestimate.

    Point is... back to the OP, like you said, they don't label a razor as mild or aggressive. Your best bet is to ask here if you can't find a picture like described or try it yourself. However, with about everything in this hobby, your experiences are different than everyone else. We each have unique skin chemistry, whisker density, whisker thickness, skin sensitivity, etc...
     
  10. Manos

    Manos Member

    I've looked for a comprehensive list, but the ones I've seen are not complete, and don't match my observations. Etoyoc listed some excellent indicators.

    I'm trying to rank my razors by tactile feedback, or how the razor transfers resistance from stubble to hand. My Merkur HD has lower tactile feedback, and cuts through everything with little resistance. Super Speeds seem to have more resistance, perhaps from the higher profile doors sliding against my face. My Tech's are in the middle. While each feels different to shave with, all do a good job.

    Because such comparisons are so personal, there may be no way to generalize a ranking of razors for everyone. Blade gap sure isn't the last word.
     
  11. DV8_JERM

    DV8_JERM New Member

    Everything I have read on hear has helped me in one way or another. A razor that maynot be aggressive for my face may be too aggressive for you. But if you read alot on the types of razors and their agressiveness is pretty much right on here, use the info these guys provide for you and your search for a good shaver will be much easier.
     
  12. sas71

    sas71 Member

    unless youre just dead set on getting a Weishi, id get a mid 60's SS for the same amount of money. when i started my quest 10 months ago i wanted a Weishi but the place i wanted to get it from shut down for a while so i researched the SS and ended up gettin a '65 SS. i know a lot of the fellas like the 40's SS but i wanted one with the lower profile head since my upper lip area isnt very large. im glad i got it, i wouldnt want anything more milder than the SS which i believe the Weishi is a tad milder. i dont have a thick beard or anything but the SS just works great, no prbs whatsoever.

    SS info and darn good reading http://www.theshaveden.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9077
     
  13. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member

    Well, I already have a Weishi on order from Amazon. It's not so much that I was dead set on getting one, it's more that I didn't feel like battling it out on eBay, waiting for the auction to end and then waiting for it to get here and then wondering if it has been properly cleaned.

    I'd just rather start with a "clean slate", so to speak, for my maiden voyage into DE shaving and then decide if I want something with a more aggressive shave, vintage, adjustable, etc.

    Should be here in a few days!

    Thanks for the pointers, though! I'll keep the Super Speed in mind if/when I decide I need something different.
     
  14. sas71

    sas71 Member

  15. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member

    So much to learn!

    Thanks for another great link.
     
  16. Etoyoc

    Etoyoc Backwards

  17. shavejunkie

    shavejunkie New Member

    I did the same thing in purchasing a weishi, almost scrapped wet shaving because of it. Please try a 40's-50's model Gillette before deciding wet-shaving may not be for you. If you send it to me I will remove all "cooties" and send it back to you for free. Just don't give up on double edge razors. Good luck let me know if I can help you in any way.
     
  18. boyextraordinare

    boyextraordinare New Member

    In a way you can. If you dial a Gillette adustable to its lowest setting and then dial up to its highest, you'll note a marked difference.

    Beyond such extremes, I don't think you can.

    Go by a razor's reputation.
     
  19. MadCapsule

    MadCapsule Member

    Oh, I definitely plan on sticking with wet shaving. I noticed there are a bunch of vintage Gillettes in the Shave Den store right now for what seem to be fair prices. If I decide that the Weishi isn't for me, I'll have to check out some of those. If they're still around, that is. Otherwise, it'll be eBay or the BST section here, I guess.

    And thank you for the offer! I'll keep that in mind in I end up getting a razor that is suspect.
     

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