OK all done on this Oldie Moldy... The name on the razor says W. Wilton the second initial is questionable we have found reference to C. G. or O. looking through a magnifying glass I would guess O. myself now... Some before pics This is after the initial polishing which revealed some deeper pitting under the patina
More pics The next step was a ton more work than I had figured on... I tried the greaseless compounds pretty aggressively 4 separate times the pitting was just to deep... With this much heavy steel to play with I stepped it up a notch and re-ground the faces of the blade... These next pics are the blade after the re-grind and a pass of the 80 grit greaseless ... I chose some Leopardwood for the scales and re-con Amber for the wedge.. This is the mock up for fitting before the final polishing on the blade and the CA finish for the scales... The blade will get a bevel set on there, then I will re-polish the steel again, and finally after the razor is all together I'll hone her up...
Finally Done !!! Now that it is done make sure if you can make the Spokane Meet on Sunday Sept.26th links: To keep you updated http://www.theshaveden.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20185 http://www.straightrazorplace.com/f...ific-nw-inland-nw-western-canada-meet-up.html This razor is the Door Prize, no gimmicks no strings attached, just show up and have fun, and you stand a chance of taking it home... Now back to the razor Basically finished it out as expected, the finish on the Leopardwood is CA... I ended up using all Brass hardware even the spacer for the third pin... The razor itself I took to a mirror finish... Now for the rest of the story you didn't know, see this one came to me from LZ6, one of SRP's senior members, his words "Figure out something special to do with it Glen" So I hope you like it Bob....
Seriously, I was talking to CarrieM and JoeD about making it for the May 2011 NY Meet-up in Rochester.. I gotta see how things are going but it is a possibility
Fantastic work Glen! Tell me, what do you use to regrind the razor? I have a few that I want to send out for regrinds, but may just end up trying myself... Care to share your tool? Thanks! Jeremy
Actually Jeremy how I did it is both dangerous and inaccurate, hence why I did not post the details.. I know it looks good, but I have very, very, steady hands... It could have gone bad in an instant... I would not recommend anything but a Belt Grinder specifically designed for for the purpose..... something like these http://www.stephenbader.com/ Those give the safest and most accurate grinds...
Glen, always great and amazing talent in all your work!! Would it be possible to take it from start to the final mirror finish without the use of the power tool to grind a new surface? What's the greaseless compound you refer to? Sorry if you've covered this in other posts, I've just never come across them if you have.
This site has a ton of info right here http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/strrz.html Lynn and JoeD worked with these guys to get the kits put together... The 80-600 grits Greaseless from Formax is what I use on sewn Cotton wheels then Black Emory - Green Chromium - Stainless Steel - Red Chromium - Blue Magic on the polishing wheels that is just my system... When I was restoring only for myself, I used Wet-r-dry 220-2000 grit sandpaper with wd-40, and one buffing wheel with the Emory and the SS polishes to do the same, it just took days instead of hours... I hate I mean HATE changing wheels so I went a slightly different route for my buffers I have multiple Harbor Freight buffers made into an an actual buffer bench that I just walk down the line on... Starting at the far end those wheels now go 80-80 / 120-180 / 320-400 / 600- Emory / CrOx - SS / Red Cr - Plain Cotton / the single motor at this end is a 1725 rpm with a cotton buff and Plastic polish for scales... The 80-80 on the first Buffer is because you do a ton of the work right there, sorta like honing you have to get the bevel set before moving up on these you have to get clean steel before moving up too... Also I use 4 inch wheels exclusively for this for two reasons 1. Speed = Heat since these buffers are not adjustable and spin at 3450 rpm I have to use the size of the wheel to keep the actual surface speed of the buffs down (the formula is on the Caswell site) 2. The smaller wheel helps me get into Hollow grind razors better... Hope that helped some..