I'm a complete noob here, and I've been reading through trying to put together my first DE kit. (See my intro thread here: http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/my-new-obsession-help-me-im-completely-ignorant-cheers.30944/) One recurring term is that one razor is more or less "aggressive" than others. What do you mean by this? Does one need an "aggressive" razor to achieve the closest shaves? Is it an indicator of how careful one must be with technique?? Perhaps one of you might be kind enough to clarify how this term is used. Cheers.
Aggressive razors in very general terms apply the blade at a more extreme measure to the skin either through angle or exposure. A more aggressive shave can be more efficient by bringing the blade closer to the skin, but it can also cause irritation, weepers, and nick if it is too close. A less aggressive shave can be more efficient by taking the blade further from the skin, but it can also be less efficient at cutting hairs close so more passes may be needed. A smooth shave is one that does not bring irritation, weepers or nicks to the skin. Here are some of the issues that affect aggressiveness. 1. Blade Gap - The gap between the cap and the base plate. That can be adjusted on "adjustable" razors. 2. Head Curvature - This is the curve of the head. That is the pivot that allows you to create the blade angle of approach. 3. Open area versus Closed on the base plate. This is often referred as the Comb. If it has teeth that have open spaces that is an open comb. If it has teeth with closed spaces that is a closed comb and the straight bar is the the guard bar. This along with the blade gap helps to either accentuate or reduce the level of exposure along with the blade gap. 4. Weight of Head - How much the head and weighs (cap and base plate). 5. Handle Length - How long the handle is. That acts as a lever. The longer the handle, the more precision angle you can make since it take more motion to create angle chages at the head. A short handle will react with a greater angle change because it takes less physical difference to move the head at an angle. 6. Center of Gravity - This is where the entire razor (head and handle) if held on a single point would balance. If the center of gravity moves forward toward the head, it can apply more pressure so that is important. A hollow handle and a solid handle will cause two razors of the same size with the same head and materials to have different centers of gravity. 7. Material types uses and placement can also affect the aggressiveness of a razor. 8. The Blade itself. (That is another large set of issues so I will stop right there.) There are probably more that I have not listed. I know this is a lot to digest, but the design of mechanical items is not always straight forward. That is why there were so many different variant designs just on the double edge razor from the 1920s to the 1960s. Hundreds and hundreds of small tweaks to larger variations are documented pictorially in various books on the subject.
Hi..welcome! In general the term aggressiveness when referenced to a razor, denotes overall razor efficiency. Gary has done his usual comprehensive job in explaining the fundamentals so I'll just add.. what complicates the matter, is that razor aggression can also be a subjective experience, fraught with myriads of variables. I think it's safe to assume though, that razor aggression should generally vary according to ones beard type..more aggressive for heavy..less for the easier grow etc. It's probably wise when starting out to go with the less aggressive set up such as a Feather Popular, one of the Lord razors, or if your Budget allows, an Edwin Jagger. All these are what are considered relatively mild and good for a start. Later when yours skills become more solidified, you can experiment with the aggression variable, should it turn out that you need something more efficient. I also would like to point out that an experienced DE hand with a heavy grow, can make even a well designed relatively mild shaver such as a vintage Gillette Tech, do a pretty efficient job...
Thank you. I think I've decided on some variant of the EJ DE89 for my first razor, based on several recommendations from members here. However, I was curious to know so I could be slightly less ignorant in the future. Cheers.
Do a search for the post by Geogaga.. He did a great one last year on the topic of what makes a razor aggressive...accompanied by this picture. I have it save in my Subscribed posts, but I am on the iPad..
I've personally never tried the EJ DE89, but I've heard good things about it for both newbs and veterans alike. Good choice, I think you'll be happy.
I am glad you saved that diagram because it is seems to be no longer attache to the original thread below. http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/what-makes-a-razor-aggressive-or-mild.20482/
There you go!! But looks like I owe abernath an apology.. I though that post was by geogaga... Credit where credit is due!!
would I be correct to assume heavy growth/dense bearded people would prefer to have more aggressive razors?
Not necessarily. If one has sensitive skin then a milder razor and taking an additional shaving pass may serve one better, even with a thick beard. Remember that the goal is the best way to remove hair without injuring your skin. In the end, your skin type is, in my view, the biggest determiner of what will be the best razor for an individual.
