The "what is" and " how to" thread for the Rolls Razor

Another set can be found here:

http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/razor-instructions.8232/#post-134379

 

Just wanted to thank you all for posting the instructions, i've emailed a company in Ireland, regarding the blade being professionally honed. Its a sad time, when you can't find a specialist in a city once famous for it's steel and cutlery trade, Sheffield is not the place it was 60+ years ago

I did spend 25 minutes honing the blade a couple of days ago and it did seem to give it an edge, it's just not at the point where it will take the hairs off my arm. Could I possibly trouble someone with a working setup to tell me if their strop is level with the metal sides of the lid or is it recessed? Since cleaning up the strop and removing the gunky glue from the back, I've now cut out two pieces of card from a cereal box, which seems to have done the job. I just want to know if I have raised the hone enough.

I dismantled the case best as i could, cleaned the pin assembly with the red tension sleeve, it was covered in spot of rubbish, which i was able to scratch of with my nail. The rest i used the suggested eraser and cotton bud approach to clean up.

With the main case disassembled, I used a small brush with some soapy water and gently cleaned the gears and removed all the fluff and rubbish from all the little craveses. After I thoroughly dried the case, i tried out the movement of the operating handle, Wow! smooth as anything! Before you had to fight with it even with the strop and hone removed. Once I re-assembled everything, I found there wasn't so much give when i tried moving the blade once it was affixed to the pin. It still will move, but not without applying pressure. The second unit i have, moves with the minimal amount of effort, so i know the cleaning has done something

When you push the blade along the hone, the resistance is now from the blade on the stone and not from all the rubbish clogging up the gears.

James

 

Greg,

I'd given up on a used late model unit I had laying around because I couldn't get a decent edge back onto it. Then I read your comment that a good honing requires a minimum of 60 passes.

I have the day off today so after 20 minutes of honing I got it back into fine shape. Superb BBS shave so she's good to go. Anyway, a question for you, sir:

Would flopping the blade (alternating the "up" side) with each shave make any difference if you strop after each use? I'm assuming the answer is no but want to consult the master. Thanks...also welcome any other tips on daily maintenance you can share.

 

I don't think flipping the blade will do much. I don't pay much attention so my blade probably gets fliped sum.


Tips:
1. Don't touch the saddle spring
2. I spent a lot of time polishing the scratches out of the cases and stains off the blades. To prevent new scratches and protect the bathroom counter, I strop and hone on a wash cloth.
I keep a glasses cleaning cloth with my kit and wipe down the blade with it after each shave removing all water and soap residue to prevent staining

 

Yeah, yeah...

Cool, thanks!

 

Hey all

Have some great news, I bought another Rolls razor from ebay, sadly when it arrived the hone was broke in three pieces. However I wasn't too bothered about this, my key interest was the blade which didn't look to worn at all. As it turned out the blade is pretty darn sharp. Enough to take the hairs off the back of my hand, so when i get chance, plan on honing and stropping this new blade and giving it a try out.

Cheers
James

 

Great going, James! Enjoy!

 

If you strop after each shave, is there any reason to also strop before the next? I read that somewhere and I don't quite get it.

 

If you use the Rolls every day or close to every day then, probably no need for a pre-shave strop. I think when blades were only used once a week (7 day sets), it was sort of a requirement. I rotate Rolls so I usually do a pre-shave strop. That being said, a straight shave from my barber usually starts with a pre-shave strop and often a strop session or 2 durring the shave. I think she has perfectionist tendencies.

 

Great thread every one,

I'm new to the thread but have been using a Rolls for better than 40 years. I used to buy and the pass them on but recently need to pic a new one up for myself. after traveling for years the TSA confiscated my jewel. I just found a NOS Imperial from 1952.

So here is the problem. I have never broke in a new one. Everything with the exception of the stop seems to be in great condition but I don't know if it reqires any break in. As for the strop, it seems to have dryed and shrank a bit. It also needs to be oiled and conditioned but this is to be expected. Does any one have any breakin advice or any advice on how much oil the strop may need(or is it a goner)

Thanks for the thread and any future help,
Craig

 

Hi Craig, welcome!

You might go to a shop where they sell all kind of things for horse riding. In a local store over here I found some special leather treatment wax that really nurtures the leather (a leather balm with bees' wax). My Rolls strop was fairly dry as well when I bought it, but not anymore! I put on a generous amount of wax and let it sit in the sun for some time. The sun's heat made the wax go soft and get into the leather. Then a good sturdy rubbing did the rest.

Did you use your Rolls on a daily basis? And how is your honing / stropping routine? Anything like gregindallas' routine? (which is great, by the way) Since I guess you might be an expert as well, you might have set your own routine.

 

Some positives I've noticed using the Rolls (YMMV)...

• It is exactly what they advertised: a self-contained shaving unit so well engineered and constructed (Imperial 2, anyway) that, with care, it will outlast you.
• If you find one cheap in good shape, and commit to using it, it'll pay for itself before long (I found a dead mint set for $30 but that's fairly unusual).
• Supremely close, comfy shaves...I can go over a full day before really needing to shave again. Not so with DEs; yes with SEs but usually not without blood.
• I've yet to draw blood using my Rolls, yet it passes the hanging hair test.
• It can take off a full goatee - I just did it - without choking or clogging.
• The relatively short, thin handle gives surprisingly good control and maneuverability. Lends itself well to some fine blade buffing, too.
• Wedge blade gives very good visibility when trying to avoid goatees, sideburns, etc.
• Audio feedback is on par with an SE.

The following aren't really negatives, they just need to be kept in mind...

• It is a straight on a stick, meaning you cannot go offline and shave by remote control the way we often do with other razors. Attention must be paid at all times.
• If you have a shnozz like mine, getting right up under the nose may take some doin'.
• You gotta get in the habit of maintaining it but it's really simple and not a big deal at all.
• Hone and strop in a separate room or garage - even 60 seconds of stropping (quieter than honing) can annoy wives and small children.

More additions to either of these lists are welcome.

 

Add a positive:

It's cool!

 

Mechanical questions on the Rolls Razor

Hello folks,

Thanks to you, I have spent many enjoyable hours reading the wealth of information in this forum.

Recently I rekindled an appreciation for Rolls Razors which are truly amazing shaving instruments - attested by the fact that some have had a lifetime of use and are still functional.

Having wet shaved for many decades and with a background in instrument design and fabrication I just had to restore some to functionality. Unfortunately one of my razors requires replacing the steel clamp rod in the lower part of the Shaving Handle. But without distructive analysis I am unable to determine how it is fixed into the handle. Can any of you Rolls enthusiasts enlighten me?

Thanks in anticipation
Swigman

 

Well, Swigman, I'm not sure what you mean, but it seems to me that the simplest solution is to find a replacement. Another Rolls set, that is, perhaps not complete or with a broken hone (cheaper ). But I can appreciate the wish to repair the part.

 

Mike,

Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately Rolls Razor Shave Handles seem to be in short supply with many an eBay offering missing the handle. As you suggested I purchased two old Rolls Razors just for their handles. Unfortunately both handles were unusable. I can fix one of them by machining and fitting a new stainless steel clamp rod. But I need to remove the old rod first and not ruin the handle in the process. What I am hoping is that a stainless steel replacement rod will fix the common Rolls problems of a rusted or short clamp rod and others could employ the same fix.

Hope this helps
Swigman

 

I can't tell for sure if you have the one or two-piece handle?

 

It is the two piece handle. The upper part of the handle assembly has cylindrical lower body, a conical upper body and the hook on top that holds the blade. When viewed from the bottom there a female thread and hole goes thru its center for the steel clamp rod. The lower part of the assembly has a cylindrical body with a male thread on its top and the steel clamp rod projecting from its center. When assembled with the blade in place the lower part is turned and the steel clamp rod pushes on the underside of the blade clamping it in place. It is this clamp rod that I want to replace with stainless steel.

Swigman

 

I found the answer. The lower part of the Shave Handle is comprised of 4 parts. The knurled barrel, a steel clamp rod, a steel spring, and a threaded end cap. It is the force from the compressed spring on the Clamp Rod that ultimately clamps the blade. Something I was unaware of because the Clamp Rods on my Rolls handles are jammed. I was able to restore the handle in the photo by cleaning it up and lubricating its parts with marine grade anti corrosion grease and then assembled it. Now, no more hard twisting of the lower barrel of the handle to hold the blade. I just screw the lower barrel until it is closed up and the spring holds the blade very firmly. An ingenious solution for holding a potentially dangerous piece of sharp metal which gives me even greater appreciation of the Rolls.

Swigman

 

Now I see what the problem was. Good fix! I'm going to remember this if I ever have the same issue. You've done us a service, sir!