Not harder, but with a mild razor, I find I often require MORE passes to achieve a nice BBS shave. As I have über-sensitiver skin, I tend to be prone to irritation or 'tender face' with multiple passes. If I can achieve a smooth, close shave in fewer passes with NO irritation (i.e. a comfortable shave), I'm all in! I have discovered that I am able to do this (fewer passes) with as more 'aggressive' razor. It requires good prep and sound technique, but the results are worth the extra care. Agreed. But if I can achieve exemplary results on a quicker 2-pass shave, I'm a happy camper!
You're right the less passes the better. For me aggressive means irritation, but if you use a light touch should work. I have sensitive skin and learned a year ago that cold water shaves are helpful. Then lately I discovered I had to give up ATG passes on my face. On my neck I can go all directions. Also, I found I can get an efficient DE shave with a mild razor with a sharp blade and a heavy handle. I have a heavy handle on a 1941 Tech and it is very efficient, without being scarily aggressive.
This is going to sound silly but wouldn't it all be up to the user when shaving as to apply how much pressure to get a different shave? I understand some blades are super sharp, but wouldn't given the same blade to the same person still have different outcomes? IE, if I know something is super sharp I wouldn't press as hard that might cause it to cut more into the skin? I'm just sorta of thinking aloud, if one is new how does one go about even picking a blade not knowing where to start or how one or another shaves? Thanks, -Nigel
The way blades sit in different razors can wind up producing different appropriate blade angles, which in turn can influence how much pressure one needs to use to get a close shave. Couple this with: the amount of blade exposure a given razor has, the coarseness and density of a person's beard (or other hair) growth, and how tough a given person's skin is beneath the blade, and a blade that is considered "super sharp" by a sample majority may not be a good choice for you. For a personal example, Astra SP gets lots of praise on various shaving fora, but I can't get a comfortable shave with it. As always, the most reliable way to pick a blade is to get a decent sized sample pack of different brands, and change the blade for a new brand after a few uses. Keep notes on what each blade has in its favor and what might be a problem with that blade, and don't dismiss a given brand just because a single blade didn't perform well for you. The most common advice is to change as little else as possible while you're sampling blades, to reduce the number of variables that could influence how good the shave is.
Nigel, I agree that the person holding the razor has the final say as to how different a shaving experience one has, but inherent in the design of some razors is a greater blade exposure and blade 'gap'—which essentially means your face is going to notice a difference no matter how great or how little pressure is applied. In my own experience, if I were to take two of my razors on the opposite ends of blade exposure/blade gap design, not only would I probably feel the difference, but I venture to say if I applied identical pressure on each, the results would be significantly (?) different. For example, I tread VERY lightly when using my R41 (a notoriously aggressive DE razor) and get an ultra-smooth shave after only one pass. If I shave the other side of my face with a less-aggressive razor (my Gillette Tech, for example) applying the same gentle pressure used on the R41, the results would not likely be as close or as smooth as the R41 after one pass. The Tech WILL get the job done, but just not as efficiently as a more aggressive razor. If I were starting out, I would recommend a milder razor and a not-so-sharp blade until I get enough practice in and am confident in my technique. At that point, if I feel I'm using decent technique, but still getting some tugging or 'rough' shaves, then i'd begin considering alternate blade choices. Too often, I believe, new shavers begin introducing new parts (such a blades, etc) to the puzzle before nailing down the technique.
All makes perfect sense! Another question is that most of these are adjustable no? I always thought they were when you turned the bottom handle, how does one combat the blade settings from changing when going back and forth from one and to another and also I know for straight razor the skin stretching technique is used... is it also used in this application? Thanks again, -Nigel
No, I wouldn't say most razors are adjustable. There are some, of course, and they can be easily identified by numbers on an adjusting dial. If the razor has no numbers, it is not adjustable; the head, and therefore the blade, are fixed. It is important to make sure the blade is snug in the razor before shaving. A loose blade can be a catastrophe, although some do experiment with it. Not quite sure what you mean about combating blade settings. Here's my recommendations when starting out with an adjustable: 1st shave - set at 3, complete the entire shave, evaluate 2nd shave - set at 4, complete the entire shave, evaluate 3rd shave - set at 5, complete the entire shave, evaluate 4th shave... Continue this until you find that one setting that is just one click too much. Back it down one, lock and leave it. I'm locked at 6 for my Gillette adjustables. Some folks like to change the settings for each pass, but that's because they have come to learn the razor and what each setting provides for them. As for a fixed head razor, not all have the same geometry; that is, the shape of the head will affect how it sits on your face, and since the blade is in the head, the angle of the blade is affected, as well. It's a matter of experimentation to find that sweet angle that will give you the best shave. Stretching the skin is applicable to all types of razors - DEs, SEs, straights, even cartridges. Stretching helps lift the beard for a closer shave. It also will create a flatter surface on the skin that helps, too.
Thanks Steve! Appreciate you answering all my newb questions so far!! I was under the impression that all DE razors were adjustable but now glad to see that I was not correct so that will probably make it that much harder if going that route later on... I am excited though for when my straight razor comes in hopefully this week! -Nigel
And remember too that this is a game of very small differences. Blade gap can change a few thousands of an inch and send you into a bloody fugue. Subtleties matter.
Shaving proficiency is a combination of skill mastering, personal preference, skin/hair chemistry, and age. While there are a number of quantitative indices that are common to all shaving, there are also a great deal of qualitative indices. I advise others to experiment once they have an understanding of the basics. No two individuals are alike. Some folks find something that works for them and stick with it. My father was a great experimenter LOL. He used a Schick electric razor when he got out of the army in 1945 and used it for 50 years..........I on the other hand will order something, try it, and then give it away so I can move on to something else. I like motorcycles and wine. I dont collect wine but my wine fridge has about 100 bottles and they are all different wines. I have a friend who, when he finds a wine he likes, order two trillion cases and drinks it for 10 years. I like to buy/ride/sell motorcycles every year as the experimentation is just fun. I have friends however who have 30 year old motorcycles that they wouldn't think of selling..........to each his own. BTW, surprising my son (for Ramadan) with a brand new never used 1958 fatboy. Hope he likes it.
Quick question, I have Edwin Jagger DE 89, the one with a lined handle. Is this considered a less aggressive razor or more aggressive? I going to get another razor to keep in the camper and was thinking of something a little less aggressive. Parker maybe? Anyone have any thoughts?
Couple of charts I've found on the net put the EJ89 in the middle of the road in terms of blade gap, head weight, and aggressiveness. A Gillette Tech or Super Speed Blue Tip would be milder and you can pick one up pretty easily at an antique shop or online. I've got three Techs, one I won in a PIF and the other two at antique stores cheap.
I haven't used a Parker but I think most people consider them a little more aggressive than the DE89. SuperSpeeds feel pretty close to the same for me. If you want something less aggressive, a Tech would probably fit the bill and be easy to find. Maybe a Weishi if you want a TTO?
My son learned to wetshave with a Tech—a pretty mild shaver. I then bought him an EJ89. He claims he had to be a bit more careful with the EJ89 as it was more prone to 'biting him' if he wasn't paying attention. So in his experience, the Tech was certainly less aggressive than the EJ. The nice thing about the mild Techs, as John mentioned here, is there are plenty of them out there (ebay) and for a relatively small investment. One of only two Gilettes I've hung on to....
