What Straight Razor Did You Use Today?

Henckels 78 restore. This one took a great edge and gave a great shave. It is now firmly entrenched in my straight rotation.​

 

6/8 Torrey
Catie's Bubbles "Menta Terrosa"
homemade boar

 

That's some good lather.

 

I know that one too. You take better pictures of it than I did.

 

Bartmann 86

 

5/8 Twins
CB "Menta Terrosa''
homemade boar

 

I have noticed in my learning curve with the straight razor that a more watery (for lack of a better term) or looser lather works better for me than the way I lather when using a DE. I have actually been getting better at lathering that way in addition to my straight technique improving. I have a feeling that may be a part of why this shave in particular was so good.

 

Man that is a really nice, super clean razor. It is virtually mint.

 

H Boker Master razor

 

That's true and the first advice I got with my first straight razor to make the lather wetter. Lather does make a difference in gliding and not sticking when shaving. I re-wet the lather as needed during a pass.

 

Filarmonica 14 Sub Cero, pre-1950, early cryotempered stainless steel

 

Razor Erusta 96 Boehlersteel full hollow 13/16

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Hi Robert I would say that's a post 1950s Filarmonica, there's an easy way to tell If it says made in Spain or "FABRICACION ESPAÑOLA on the reverse side of the tang then that will indicate the razor is post and not pre 1950s, I have a very early Filarmonica and they have no markings on the reverse side of the tang and the coffin usually carries the Eagle emblem on the box, I'll leave you with my early Filarmonica plus some info on those razors.



Filarmonica date & model Info.
I found this piece of Info which I'm sure most Filarmonica owners and future owners will find of interest I know I do.

. First Generation: Jose Monserrat Pou's initial offerings - ~1915 - 1967.


Pre-1950 versions will NOT have "FABRICACION ESPAÑOLA / MADE IN SPAIN" stamped on the rear of the tang



Three main iterations of the "Especial" model (in order; transitional anomalies exist)
Tang shows curved Jose Monserrat Pou with stylized eagle (IMPERIAL brand), tall & vertical "14"
Tang shows IMPERIAL brand, straight Jose Monserrat Pou, short & horizontal "14" with lyre
Tang returns to curved Jose Monserrat Pou & tall/vertical "14", but with "FILARMONICA"
These would also have the 'musical' Especial/Filarmonica gold seal on the blade face
New white box with "Especial Para Barbas Duras" - the original EPBD



The original "Doble Temple"
Tang similar to Especial with curved Jose Monserrat Pou, tall & vertical "14", and "FILARMONICA"
A different gold seal on the face, most notable attribute being the "JMP" initials in the center
Collectors will refer to this as a "JMP signature blade", the initials were later replaced by the lyre
See my earlier image for a pristine example; these are more rare and more highly valued by some
The rest of the gold seal might have been generic; I've found a Carl Friedrich Ern Crown & Shield with the same seal design



The "Medallon Taurino" limited edition, bullfighting series was introduced
They're just Doble Temple 13s with six bullfighting themes on the face
Banderillas, Capote, Estocada, Cogida, Muleta, and Rejoneo
Three total iterations found across three generations of Filarmonica (anyone up to collect all 18?)

The "Sub Cero" was a cryo-treated Doble Temple. Tang stamp conventions apply. It stuck around into the next generations.



2. Second Generation: I call it the "Filarmonica Aesthetic Period" (FAP...fapfapfapfapfap...) - 1967-1979.

The company seems to have decided that pretty makes profit, and thus updated their look.
New scales (a few versions), gold seals, and tang stamps mark this era.
Tang stamps settled into a uniform style with small horizontal number, lyre, JMP, model, and Filarmonica

The Especial blossomed into the more ornate Especial Para Barbas Duras with laser etching and tang grommet.
The Doble Temple continued as the brand's steadfast workhorse, steady as she goes.
Four more models appeared
TRIDUR Especial Para Barbas Duras - Trivalent chromium coating for less corrosion. It's harder to hone until the outer coating is removed. Name is on the face, otherwise identical to the EPBD.
Novodur Para Profesionales - not much known, though the marketing goal is clear. Notable are the embossed scales from the EPBD, third pin in the scales, model on the tang, and gold seal similar to Sub Cero
Especial Para Corte de Pelo - narrow EPBDs made for hair cutting with attachment. "Corte Cabello" on the face.
INOX / INOXIDABLE - stainless steel Doble Temple. I don't like stainless, so not much to say there. Most were 3rd gen and don't bear JMP's name.



3. Third generation: Jose Monserrat Pou passed away sometime in the late '70s - early '80s. His son took over for a brief period, apparently continuing to sell out the old stock of materials. This is a murky period which I avoid. Straight razors were banned from Spanish barbershops in 1985 (Hepatitis & HIV?) and safety/cartridge razors had taken over worldwide, so the diminished demand (along with JMP's absence) had a direct affect on production. Many people have declared success with these razors, but they are considered hit or miss by collectors.


Key identifier is JMP's name having disappeared from the blades altogether
These are the razors you see in black "Sello Oro" boxes
Quality control was on the fritz with blade faces not matching tang stamps and other issues (lots of these on ebay from Japan)



4. Fourth generation: JMP's son died shortly after his father, then the daughter took over. The company closed a few years later in 1990.

Very hard, brittle steel sourced from Pakistan - takes an edge, but falls apart sooner than expected
No tang marks, only perfunctory "FILARMONICA -DOBLE TEMPLE-" etched on the face
Some have Sello Oro packaging or just plastic sleeves
Simply avoid these unless you're a collector



The first gen blades are considered by some to be the highest quality Filarmónica produced. I believe this is partially a matter of nostalgia, because when examining the first two generations historically & practically (on hones and face), there doesn't seem to be a difference between them with regard to steel and grinding. There is no reason that the earliest third gen razors shouldn't perform as well as previous generation blades, but any razor lacking Jose Monserrat Pou's name is a gamble. For those of you who got the good ones, congratulations! But caveat emptor to anyone on the hunt for a new Filarmónica.

 

6/8 Grelot
Mike's
homemade boar

 

Thanks, Jamie for the info. I did read that post and many others on trying to date the Filaromonica, when I bought the Sub Cero. I was incorrect about saying pre-1950. The seller said pre-1952. This is indeed first generation though. The back side of the tang is blank. The coffin doesn't have an eagle emblem, just the lyre.



Alfredo Gil/doc226 on badgerandblade sold it as pre-1952 and I think he knows his stuff. I wish there was more info on dating straight razors like you can a Gillette safety razor. Just think of the hundreds of makers in Solingen and Barcelona, etc. and many will not be found in Unilecta or other sources.

Manah on badgerandblade and straightrazorplace seems to be a fount of knowledge, but I don't know where he gets all his information. There a couple of old books that cost a fortune that document straights, but I don't know that those are even fully informative. I've read posts where people asked Dovo about specific history and razors and got no information. I guess they didn't think that was important.

My next area of interest is in the French razors. I only have one little known one, Fransique Delolme Le Thiernois that is a great shaver and like the Japanese razors has a different feel in the hand. Like the old English razors, it feels heavy for its size. I keep looking at vintage and modern Theirs-Issards, but they are so expensive for the ones I'd want to try.

 

I have a theory Robert I believe the very early Filarmonicas were made by the Germany maker Guillermo Hoppe they look so similar there definitely must be a connection I'm convinced they are the same razors. http://straightrazorplace.com/razors/61069-guillermo-hoppe.html

 

It could be true. I've read one little or large company or individual worker could be producing for several different brands. I think the J A Henckels workers made straights for other companies. A very inbred business, just as today, major shaving soap brands being made by a handful of major companies. Proraso makes soaps and creams for cheaper company brands and expensive ones, such Santa Maria Novella soaps, once made by monks in Florence, Italy.

Also, it seems straight razor makers used blanks such as the 14s that might be from one maker.

 

Sunday 5/11/2014

Wostenholm Genuine Pipe Razor (shorty)​

 

Sub Cero #12
WSO "White Lightning"
homemade boar

 

Ben using a new GD that I received a little over a week ago. It's been nice.