I have two old flat blade screwdrivers that I converted into chisels using a flat file. They have proven to be very valuable in removing old knots, and that hard-as-a-rock cement that some knots are set with. I've broken two handles trying to heat & twist out old knots. I believe it's far better to just take your time, and chip away at the old stuff. Much less chance of breaking that nice handle. I re-knotted my dad's old Ever Ready 200 some months ago using just hand tools.
I use the exact same method. I have two screwdrivers I use as chisels. I carefully take out the bristles after cutting them short using a chisel and a little brass hammer. Once the bristles are out, I drill 5 holes in the pattern of pips on a die, and again using a chisel, knock out the material that is below the bristles. When that is done, I use a dremel or drill to clean out, or expand the hole. I found that if I jumped to a quick solution, I tended to ruin or at least damage the handle. So this is the method I have safety arrived at. It is crazy time consuming, but strangely satisfying.
Good stuff. Look at the Tutorial section for info on restoring the paint, where the handle is embossed. http://theshaveden.com/forums/threads/how-i-restore-the-lettering-on-vintage-brushes.33939/
I have been thinking about using a drill but prefer not to drill too deeply into the handle I am restoring. I know you can't see it, but I just prefer to keep things as clean as possible. Can you feel or hear the change in material once you drill through the knot base or do you use your best guess.
I used a drill press with the depth guide set just beyond where the knot was. This kept me from going too deep and let me easily drill quick holes
Unfortunately my version of a drill press is having the wife push down on the drill until I say stop.
Got the knot set, let it sit over night and then washed the knot (de-stink) per Larrys instructions. Here are the results!! I'll use the brush Sunday, but I can tell already that these tips are ridiculously soft but the hair still has pleanty of backbone. I've noticed that this brush, like my other HMW knot (that one is from Nathan Clark) doesn't splay as much as my silvertips, but both are incredibly dense. I can't wait to get this bad boy in some shave soap!
. Sometimes the knot won't budge. I did one by cutting and drilling for two reasons: First, I couldn't get the knot to come out and, second, Larry at Whipped Dog suggested that cutting and drilling provided a bit more control.
You can feel it. There is almost always an air gap between the bristle substance, and the handle itself. So when I get the bristles out, and then drill, it is pretty clear when the breach occurs. The top layer is usually only a 1/4 to 1/2 thick. Although there are always exceptions.
Very cool. I too had issues with USPS from Whipped Dog. It was shipped on the 25th and supposed to arrive on the 28th but didn't arrive until the 30th. It took three days to get out of Texas. I got the High Mountain Badger, too, and I really like it. Here it is pre and post bloom.
