I am generally a one pass shaver...WTG...with touch ups. And I walk away from the mirror with a great shave and no irritation and only the rare nick or weeper. I recently heard that barbers generally recommend only shaving with the grain. As much as I like the idea of a 3 pass shave I just can't seem to do it without major irritation...no matter what I try (prep/technique/tools/software/process). I recently have started a 2 pass WTG shave and I am achieving amazing results...without irritation. I am wondering if others have any experience with 2 pass WTG shaves?
I can only shave with the grain, and occasionally across the grain. I generally do a two pass shave with the grain, and sometimes up to a four pass shave WTG with really mild razors (blue tip, adjustables set at one) without irritation.
I only use WTG if I haven't shaved in a couple days, which doesn't happen very often. I recently stopped WTG as part of my normal routine to eliminate 1 pass of my normal 3. Now I'm XTG then ATG with possible touch-ups sometimes. Haven't noticed any irritation.
I make 3 passes - WTG, XTG, ATG for two reasons A) I want as close to BBS as I can get. I know my limits and I go there. 2) Because I can. But that's me.
My face I typically do 1, maybe 2 WTG passes, with some XTG touch up if needed (rarely). It's usually good enough for DFS. If I could just figure out how to replicate that on my head, I'd be in great shape...
The reality is, when it comes to both the number of passes and grain direction, our requirements vary greatly. I can probably get by with two passes (WTG, XTG) and come away with a 'clean shaven' face. Not BBS, and probably a notch below a DFS. No irritation, no nicks or weepers. For others with heavier, denser beards, only one or two passes simply wont do. I don't limit myself to just the two passes because... I want a truly close shave, no matter how many passes it takes (usually 3) Three passes plus a little touch-up is the norm as I enjoy the whole shaving ritual too much to... cut it short, so to speak. It's my shave, and I'll enjoy it my own stinking way!! ® (this statement has been registered and has not yet been trademarked. Trademark pending)
I do one WTG, one XTG and one ATG, with a little touch up as needed. I've got 12 minutes in my schedule to shave on weekdays and that includes cleanup and a splash of aftershave. Man, this life is crazy!
As my technique improved, ATG became possible and comfortable. Generally I do two (WTG x XTG) for a DFS experience.
I do two passes, WTG first and ATG last. I only do ATG as sort of a touch up to my WTG. I could easily get away with WTG for looks but to get the most satisfaction when faceturbating, I need that second pass.
I would argue that given the exact same parameters and assuming a non-perfect technique, going WTG will result in less irritation than ATG. However, I don't believe that ATG is necessarily a closer shave than WTG or XTG. I generally do 3 passes. WTG, XTG, and XTG. If I do a fourth pass, it is always WTG. I just don't do ATG well. My advice if you wish to increase the number of passes, do so by adding a third WTG pass. Then, if and only if you can do that with no irritation, you can consider going XTG with the last pass.
Seriously though...deep down, I think I am just jealous that I can't do multiple passes...but that's the way the genetic lottery works. Some guys are 1 pass guys and others are 2 pass guys and some are three or more pass guys.
On my face I usually go WTG, XTG and if needed ATG. My neck is a different story. That zone is stickily WTG, WTG otherwise I come out looking like I just hung myself with a double bight of hemp cord...But that is just me. It is your shave and only you know what you like and what feels right. Make it enjoyable and comfortable.