July 2015 30 Day Rule/Focus Pic & Discussion Thread

West Kansas stinks. Even those nice communities on e70.

 

Interesting you should mention that. I grew up in a little town called Hugoton, Kansas. Southwest corner so nowhere near I70. Oh no, no such civilization for us. Hugoton is around 3000 people 12 miles north of Oklahoma, 40 east of Colorado. Yeah, way out there in the "Great American Desert".

So, before you fear you offended me by saying "West Kansas Stinks"......you didn't. I know of few areas of the planet as devoid of life as that area. I couldn't wait to leave home for college, even though it was only to Northeast Kansas (where rivers have water and trees actually grow) and I did move back a couple of times but I finally broke free when I moved to South Dakota. Ok, so not much better in places but still. My mother always saw the beauty of Western Kansas....and I will admit the night sky is amazing there. Partly because of the view of the universe in complete darkness in the country and the clear atmosphere...partly because you can't see the land in the dark. At least in Eastern Colorado you're that much closer to the mountains and trees with the same kind of beautiful night skies. My advice to travelling through Western Kansas? Drive fast and and do it in the dark.

 

As promised, I thought I'd do a comparison and review of the CJB and the Feather SS since I ended up using both this month. My plan, of course, was to use the CJB all month but a broken spring ended that . So, thanks to an unused Amazon gift card I got the Feather SS as a replacement and to try it out. My CJB came from @Keithmax as part of the March PIF madness and I'm sure some of you remember me using it in April as my focus. It was my introduction to straight razor shaving and helped get me fascinated with Japanese style razors and shaving.

I won't bore you to death with tons of specific details since there are other great reviews of both razors. My intent is more of a comparison. Both are really handles for a specific type of blade, but then DE razors are actually the same thing. Variations on handles, though DE's do have other variables too such as adjustable razors, different gaps for mild or aggressive shaves, open comb, closed comb, bar designs and so on. With the CJB and Feather we're talking how it feels and handles due to the handle design and how it functions given its blade holder construction and how well it will last.

One consistent complaint I have found online with the CJB is the spring that creates the tension that keeps the blade in place. There seems to be a consistent issue with springs breaking, sometimes after only one or two shaves. Since there is no way to replace these springs, once the break the razor becomes a nice paperweight. I'm sure the same thing happens if and when the spring breaks in the Feather SS, but the quality of the razor is considerably better so that seems to be a rare problem. In fact, I dont' remember reading a review where it broke in the Feather.


You can see the spring in the Feather and the clear lack of the spring in the CJB after it broke. You can also tell from the inside view of the razor another major difference which is the build of the head. The Feather is a stainless steel razor while the CJB is something else. Notice the color difference and the spots on the inside of the CJB on top versus the stainless steel of the Feather below. I haven't found an answer to the question of what kind of metal is used in the CJB though some have suggested it's plated brass. I can't confirm that but it is a possibility given the coloration around the blemishes. Whatever it is it doesn't wear like stainless, and the finish on it is not as smooth or nice as the Feather.



The opening for the blade is also slightly different as the CJB tapers down in a wedge holding the blade while the Feather adds a slight ridge where the blade is held. This provides a bit of cushion to help avoid instant cuts and slices these razors can produce. It doesn't stop them from happening, but does provide just a bit of help.

The handles are both rubber, the CJB's is harder than the Feather's so not quite as grippy. It also features a thumb notch to help stabilize the blade along with ridges to add grip. My only problem with the CJB handle is the tendency to grip it too tightly which creates pressure which creates cuts with these razors. Not having the thumb notch keeps me from holding the Feather more loosely because I don't keep my thumb underneath the handle as I do on the CJB. I also find that changing grips for ATG passes or in switching the right hand to hold the razor in a cross face pass is a bit more intuitive with the Feather. Again, the lack of a notch and the roundness versus the shape of the CJB helps the grip adjust more naturally.

Both razors feel solid and provide nearly identical performance from the blade because, well, it's the same blade. It's the difference in grip, and the difference in the lip of the Feather and smoothness of the stainless head that creates the slight difference in feel. Since angle is all in how you hold the razor you can't blame either handle for affecting that.

The results from the razor are really identical if you achieve the same angle, pressure, direction of pass etc. Again, it's the same blade so that is expected.

Which do I prefer? Overall probably the Feather for one reason. Durability of the spring. If the spring hadn't broken I would have kept right on with the CJB. The appearance of the Feather is a bit more pleasant due to higher standards of manufacturing but I wouldn't spend the extra money for the Feather just for a bit of aesthetics. You can buy two CJB's for the price of the Feather SS and the CJB provides a great shave. Which would I recommend? Well, would you rather spend 30 bucks or 70? That's really the major question to ask. Yes, given the spring issue it's possible you might have to buy two or three CJB's before getting one that will really go the distance, but maybe not. With the Feather you're more assured of buying it once and using it for years. However, if you are going to use it as an occasional treat or break in your routine or as a travel razor to compliment your straights or even your Feather, it could be the perfect solution.

As for me? I'll be keeping my CJB without the spring as part of my collection. It was a gift, after all, and one that got me started on a whole new way of shaving and into a whole new set of tools and skills. Because of it I have my Henkotsu kamisori that I will be moving to as well. I'll also continue using the Feather as part of my rotation. Knowing me I'll most likely buy another CJB with spring intact to use as well, or perhaps as a travel alternative. Besides, it's a razor....I can acquire it....and there is a disorder associated with that.

 

Another great photo. MdC and a Shavemac Finest might be one of the best pairings I have ever tried.

 

1956 Gillette Super Speed Flair
Vulfix Super Badger (660)
Georgetown G12 Scuttle
Proraso Sandalwood cream
Aqua Velva Ice Blue
Current Blade under review: Lord Platinum Class

Shave #3 with the Lord Platinum Class blade. Fine BBS results, a nice shave. Very close, comfortable, no nicks, weepers, irritation or razor burn. My lather was much better today. I took Adam's (Drygulch) advice and dipped my brush in the water a few times (3 times today) after beginning my lather.
2 Full passes: Pass 1: WTG on my face (N/S), and XTG on my neck (N/S). Pass 2: ATG. At this point, I had a solid DFS and almost a BBS shave.
Lathered up those areas that needed touch up. I used stretching and some blade buffing to get the remaining two spots. The Aqua Velva was pretty calm today.

A nice BBS shave from the Lord Platinum Class blade. During the focus I’ve moved on to another blade after 3 shaves, but because the Lord didn’t get a fair shake due to the poor lather I had Monday and Tuesday, I think I’ll give it another go tomorrow.

 

30 day rule - Day 29
MDC Lavender Face Lathered
Ladas blade
Slim Adjustable set to 8
3 passes

Another excellent shave. 30 days of concentrating on one method really does wonders for one's technique.

 

07/29/2015
Razor – Mongoose B2 with Jürgen Hempel Ti
Blade – Feather Super Pro (14)
Brush – Rubberset 400-3 with WSP HMW
Lather – Lo Haiku
Post - Witch Hazel and Fine Platinum



Had a decent shave this morning ending up with a near BBS but alot of tugging and work to get to that point. This blade is just done. I think I'll load a Kai Mild to finish of the Focus. Finished off with a splash of Fine Platinum.

 

As someone who lives in Kansas, I just want to say how much this explains about Missouri.

 

You should post this in the Straight Razor forum in it's own thread. People won't really find it here, and its very good information.

 

July 29th, SOTD (Shave 16 of this focus)
Two days’ growth
Prep: Hot shower
Razor: Cattaraugus Cutlery Co Green Lizard Model B54GL
Strop: Drygulch Chromexcel/ Linen (20 laps Linen/ 20 laps Leather pre and 10/10 post)
Soap: The Shave Den Lime with M-Bomb added
Brush: Spalted Maple Brush with Badger Knot
Post Shave: Cold Water Rinse, Alum Block, Thayer’s Witch Hazel
Aftershave: The Shave Den Aftershave Milk, Iced Lime with M-Bomb

Great shave today! I am trying to use up the last of my samples of Lime soap and Aftershave Milk from the Shave Den shop. They are good products, but I ordered full size ones, and want to put a different soap in the soap bowl. Whipped up a great lather, and went to add a few drops of M-Bomb, but more came out than I planned. Soap was cold enough it was making my eyes water. Did my normal N/S pass and S/N pass, and my chin and jaw were still just SAS. I lathered up again and did a XTG pass on my chin, jaw, and neck. Ended up with BBS on face, chin, and jawline, but a few spots on my neck are keeping me from calling this a BBS. Since I had already over mentholated the soap, I decided to add some M-Bomb to the already mentholated Aftershave Milk. Made it very frosty. Took almost an hour for the menthol feeling to wear off on my face. It was awesome.

Starting to think about what I will be doing for next month’s focus, but haven’t nailed anything down yet.

 

Phoenix Dbl OC Focus:

Homemade PS Oil
WD High Mountain Badger 30 mm
Kiss My Face Lavender Shea SC
Phoenix Dbl OC
Stirling Unscented PSB
Old Spice Classic AS

So after somewhere near 30 shaves with this razor, I can say that it has jumped up my list and may indeed be my favorite razor. I will need to spend a little time the next couple of weeks working on my other razors, just to remind myself about what they were like, but I suspect this will confirm it for me. The razor is definitely smooth and mild, but it feels very efficient to me. I consistently get a DFS out of it and can achieve this without as much care as with my other razors. Not that I usually get too much irritation, but I have less with this razor.

The most aggressive razor I own is a FB set on 7+, and I get just as close a shave with the Phoenix, so it is up to the task for me. I would definitely recommend this razor to others, especially if you are looking for a nice, smooth and mild shaver.

 

You're right! Only slight negative, I ordered a bulb and they sent me a fan. Would have sent it back but that would have taken another two months.

 

Nice set up! Why do I keep imagining a 4, or no number on that brush? Oh nooo!

 

A new no number 400 was just listed on the bay this morning. You know it's calling your name.

 

Razor: Merkur 34 C
Blade: Merkur Super (3)
Brush: Semogue 1305 Superior Boar
Soap: Knock Out, "Cool Blue"
A/S: Pinuad Musk
Day 29

Excellent 3 pass shave this evening. The razor, blade, brush, soap, and A/S work great together. I have never gone 30 days not using a Badger brush and tomorrow will be the end of this focus.
DFS & BBS.

 

Charlie, it does have a good grip but not as good as the Bomber Mongoose handles. It is a little bigger than the Big Bomber handle but only weighs 62 grams compared with 95 for the Bomber and 150 for the Big Bomber. The Hempel is a custom handle made by Jurgen Hempel in Germany. I just sent him and message on Facebook but if your interested I can get you his email just message me and let me know.

I do really like the scent and performance of the soap. It was a gift from @Darkbulb While my wife likes the scent, I have not had that reaction yet. Not sure my back would survive.

 

By the end of the month it's all basically automatic!

 

Agree. Good idea.

 

The Henkotsu is getting ever closer to its month in the spotlight. I appreciate your comments on the comparison. And I did post it to its own thread at straight razors.

 

Done and done.