Welcome to OCtober!


The Cartel is proud to welcome you to the October 2016 edition of the 30 Day Rule and Focus Discussion.

If you're new to traditional shaving, or to TSD, WELCOME!!! Jump in and let the friendliest and most knowledgeable bunch of people you'll ever meet help you along. Ask questions, show us your gear. There's nothing about shaving we don't like to see and hear. Even if you are just starting with a VDH razor and soap, we value you along with everyone else and we want you to become a part of this great community. It won't take long for the enablers within each of us to have you loaded down with razors, soaps, creams, brushes and enough blades to warrant building an addition onto your house! Keeps the better half happier if you do as they don’t have to lose counter space to your gear!


So, what is this group about? A couple of things, really. First and fore most this is a TECHNIQUE focused group. All of the fancy and shiny shave toys in the world won’t give you a great shave if you don’t know how to use them. That applies to any type of razor from DE safety razor to injector to traditional straights, kamisori, pain sticks, popsicle stick razors, sharp can lids and all the rest. Second, it’s a COMMUNITY focused group. Everyone here is supportive of the new people learning, the old timers learning new stuff or just working with a new razor or trying to adjust to fix an issue. We support each other and learn together. Third, it’s about SHENANIGANS. Yep, we sometimes drift off topic around here just because we can and it’s fun. As @Bama Samurai stated in the inaugural edition back in January 2015, this is an un-hijackable thread.

As one of the charter members of this thread, from January 2015, I can attest to the ability of the 30 Day Rule to build basic technique. I can also attest to the ability of the 30 Day Focus to adjust one or more areas of the shave, or to open doors to new methods and tools. This month’s theme happens to be Open Comb razors. Have some? Feel free to break them out and use them. Show them off. Make the rest of us run out and buy a few because they are so awesome! It’s called enabling, remember? If you don’t have any and don’t care don’t let that stop you either. Just use what you want to, either to learn it, change it, or just because you like it. Remember the un-hijackable part? It works that way too.


Well, that’s my introduction for the month. Wondering what the heck a 30 Day Rule or Focus is? Well, let’s let the one, the only, the legendary and mystical @Bama Samurai remind us. Please rise and remove your hats and hold your favorite razor aloft in tribute.

The 30 Day Rule (designed to build solid technique or learn new technique)

1 brush, 1 soap, 1 brand of blades, 1 razor, 30 Days. The rule is really that simple. It seems boring, but this is probably the most straightforward way to learn for a brand new shaver. This is the exercise that really allowed me to clearly see the interplay between the four elements. It is highly recommended for newly converted shavers and more experienced shavers who have a problem that defies resolution. This exercise eliminates variables and will likely solve any problem you may have, with a strict scientific approach.Any thing that strays from these simple guidelines is not a rule, but rather a focus (not that there's anything wrong with that!)

The 30 Day Focus (more flexible, for exploring and comparing)

This is a less rigorous exercise, designed for exploration and comparison of gear and technique. This is the most common exercise on the thread. Generally the elements are rotated one by one to allow clear observation. Examples of focus areas include brush types, blades, soaps, razor variants, or technique foci as a standalone.

These are the suggested guidelines, and serve as a starting point for the discussion each month. Any thematic elements are up to each individual. We believe that if you've ever sought a great shave, you have something to offer. And if you're searching for great shaves, we will definitely try to help. If you are new to TSD, I believe you've landed in a great place. Everyone here participating would love to answer your questions and help you get the most from your shaving. We are very glad you're here! So, if you're new, stop in for a cookie and meet the crew. The cookie of the month is Oreo. If this is old hat, welcome back, and let's rock another month out!

Rules are the same people.
1. New Members always welcome. Start anytime.

2. Old Members always welcome. (Maybe I should phrase that “experienced” members)
3. Respect everyone
4. Follow the rules of the forum
5. All razor types and styles welcome
6. You may not say anything negative about Russian blades, especially Voskhod. The Cartel is listening. And we have spies everywhere. They’re usually passed out drunk, but we get lucky occasionally.
7. Don't think we don't hear when you badmouth Rapira either. We're vodka loving wannabe Russians, not blithering idiots. Well, ok so sometimes.....and Ivan.....well you get the idea.


Let's have some great shaves people! Welcome to OCtober! So as always let’s huddle up for a group hug and off we go!

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I am in for a rule/focus hybrid this month. I had been toying with the idea of a strict rule but decided a little variety is necessary. A poll has been up in the Shave Soap forum to help me decide which soap I was going to use, and the winner is Stirling Barbershop.

So my rule hybrid will be:

Soap - Stirling Barbershop for most of the month, Mitchell's Wool Fat on Fridays, other change of pace if really needed
Razor - Schick L1 injector
Blade - Chinese Schick
Brush - Artisan badger, Satin Tip synthetic, Omega and Semogue boar
Aftershave - Stirling Barbershop, Fine American Blend, Skin Bracer, other change of pace

My goal is to make a dent in the Stirling soap to feel like I'm actually reducing my supply a little bit! I also want to really learn the new-to-me Schick L1.

The weather is finally changing here in the South and the cooler temperatures are going to go well with this combination. I'm really looking forward to this month of shaves.

Hello 30 day folks! I think for this month I'm going to focus on my Ever-Ready 1914, it is after all my best razor. I'm planning on cleaning up my Rolls Razor and giving it a try this month if I can get a blade sharp enough. I'm also hopeful to get a few straight shaves in. I own exactly 1 OC razor, my GEM MMOC, but in the spirit of OCtober I will also get in a few shaves with it. As for brushes, I'm going to bring back my RazoRock tri-color and do some comparisons with my AOS Fine Badger. Hopefully it is another wonderful month. I look forward to reading all of your antics.

For October I will be focusing on Open Comb DE razors. I have sold off all my vintage OC razors so will concentrating on 3 of my modern OC DE razors. From Right to Left. Titanium Wolfman OC with increased blade gap, Time OC with 0.95 blade gap and SS Wolfman OC with standard blade gap.

I'm in. Last month worked out so well for me, how can I resist... besides, I got a 1937 Sheraton that I've never used. The soap & brush combo is the tough part as I ave some really good ones that I hate to see sit for 30 days, but here we go.

Soap - Proraso Green Tub (as I have a spare, I need to burn through some).
Brush - Omega 10098 Boar (because I want it good and broken in and I want to get consistent lather with it).
Ceramic Suribachi Bowl
Blade - Blade - Gillette Silver Blue - Russia (I've got a bunch)
Razor - 1937 Gillette Sheraton
Aftershave - At least I can use a rotation of aftershaves. I mean variety is the spice of life.

I look forward to gaining some mad skittles this month & who knows, maybe even a BBS shave or two. There's a first time for everything.

Good setup! Proraso Green is a great soap, underrated in my opinion. Some people can't abide the film it leaves in your sink or your razor, but that doesn't bother me. I've had some terrific shaves with Proraso Green. I followed your progress last month and am pleased you'll be back!

Here are the razors I will be using in OCtober:


Top Row: Cooper MonoBilt, Le Coq, Henckels Rapide
In between: Bigelo and Parkin Travel Razor

Bottom row: Ericsson, Gillette New Standard, Gillette New Short Comb, Gillette New Long Comb, Gillette Old Type Head on Cadet Handle, Merkur 15C, Old Type Clone

Considering I shave every other day each razor will get used twice. It's going to be a fun month.

Andrew, do you have a favorite OC out of the group?

It is by far and above the Cooper MonoBilt. It is very efficient but doesn't feel overly aggressive and really allows the blade to sing! The most aggressive feeling razor out of the bunch is the Le Coq, that one really requires you to pay attention when you are using it.

The Cooper Monobilt looks fantastic. You certainly have a very impressive collection of OC razors. I am looking forward to following along this month.

I agree with you regarding the Proraso Green. After using several brands of soaps and some creams, I find that it will whip up a slick and easy lather, it has a mild almost neutral scent which lends itself to being used with a variety of aftershaves and it is cheap. My tub was given to me in a Newbie Givaway by @Boojum1 who must be a very wise shaver as it may be the best soap for a beginner.

Very nice!

My Mitchell's Wool Fat was given to me by @Boojum1 as part of the Newbie give-away! I won back in December 2015. I love Mitchell's. I also got a small tub of Proraso Green in the same give-away from @Marverel. It was a great haul!

I will confirm that observation. My first Rule oh so many months ago featured Proraso Green in the tub. Loved it then and I still have it around today. I do think it is the easiest and most consistent to use whether you're starting out or a seasoned vet around here. I have never tried the Red or White version and probably will in the near future. But the Green will always be top shelf for me.

Not much changes for me this month other than the frequency of the Grand Blade Trial. I'll be on the Viking Sword blade starting Monday. After that will be the Tomy. That will complete the Israeli portion of the Trial and then back on list. On non-trial days I'll be using my OC razors. Slim pickings as I only have two of them but they're both classics. A 1918 Gillette Old Style and a Gillette New LC. The '18 is an aggressive beast that is just plain fun to shave with. The New may be one of the finest razors Gillette ever made. When I'm not trialing I'll be mixing up between Tabac, MWF and Proraso Green. I'm also returning to the Veg on a daily basis.....sales are down and I'm sure it's because of my lack of Veg!

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Red is very similar to green except it has a very light sandalwood scent. Very good stuff to.

@Boojum1 knows how to set it up! Glad you're back, you're building a great technique foundation.

@clint64 @NCoxSTL

Fatip Grande is my only OC. I will use it on Sundays and random other days in OCtober!

This will be my 24th consecutive month of focus. Many of those months were actually rules and helped me have a great time learning different techniques and razors. Thanks to Everybody here for making this thread such a worthwhile endeavor. My shift to moderating has cut the amount of time I have to write and post, and honestly, I miss the time.

My goal in 2016 was to master open blade (straights/shavette) shaves. Now that the techniques are all set, I am going to spend October trying to perfect the stroke pattern and dial in the two pass routine with a shavette. Hint: I may be moving into shavette 247365! The DE edges are crazy sharp, and I am getting great shaves daily.

So here's my plan....I will be posting Technique Focus (shavette shaves) here daily six days a week, with the aforementioned foray into Fatip on Sundays with the group led by @clint64 's theme.

Going minimalist.

Monday will be Proraso Green (h/t @Boojum1 and @bscarpenter ) and Osage (I won't get nuts with it)

All other shaves are Arko and Veg unless noted otherwise. (Keep the faith @NCoxSTL !!!)

Brush is always a Plisson synthetic. Shavette blades will be Derby barber blades. Barbasol will likely make a cameo. Shenanigans too! If any brand newbies are reading, jump in! You're surrounded by practical experts in traditional shaves. We'd love to help you become a master of the skills too!

Have a fun and productive October! And watch out for all those scary teeth!

Techniques Trump Tools​

Funny you should mention FaTip. I've been perusing those over on the bay. Won a spiff during the Labor Day Sale and am considering a birthday present to myself of one of them. Since my birthday is a week away......maybe I'll add one to my OC's for the month. The debate goes on in my head. (Yeah, it's noisy in there)

It's probably the best OC option, all things considered. It's well priced and a great aggressive razor head. Nickel over brass means longevity to boot. You'll like it.