Finally got to hone some razors last night. The Geneva has given me a hard time getting a bevel. Finally got on the fourth try. I have tried it on a 1K, 1K w/slurry, and 1 layer of tape on a 1K. Had to go to 2 layers of tape. Thanks @DaltonGang for posting about a similar situation. Then ran it through a Norton 4,8, 12 SS progression. I had to use a finger on the front side toe, and the backside heel to hot the entire bevel. The Spike and W&B were just refreshes. Norton 8 and 12k SS. Finished the Spike on a mottled black thuringian on water only. I've been using the Spike as my experimental razor. Shaved with all three to test them out. Spike for the left side, Geneva right, and the W&B for my chin and the middle of my throat. The Spike was the only one lacking. I still haven't figured the mottled black out. I'm definitely downgrading the 12k SS edge.
This "ShurEdge" looked like a slam dunk since it was new looking and not honed but it is not. Tried to set the bevel on a 1k Naniwa but it had a spot in the middle of one side that wasn't really coming into contact with the stone. So I backed up to a 600 DMT. Not quite there yet so anyway I'm ready to go to the 325 and just remove material until things even out. Thankfully I don't have much invested here.
Are you adding any pressure, or blade torquing?? I've had several that were the exact same. Kind of bowed in the middle.
I have nice Red Point with the same issue. I've put it back in the cabinet until I get better at honing. It's too nice of a razor for me to screw it up. I hope you get your razor figured out. I look forward to hearing about how it turns out.
That's a bigger drop in grit than I personally would ever consider. Sometimes for a bowed razor it's best to use a 1 to 2 inch stone, I use a tiny coticule sluty stone and run circles from heal to toe. I both chamfered and rounded the edges just for this purpose.
I have considered a few different ways to go about this and understand the option of using a narrow stone. However while the this would evenly bevel the edge it would still be bowed or warped or whatever. How do I get to a point where I'm able to finish and put the final polish on the edge if it's not flat? This is why I'm approaching it this way. To get the the edge flat and beveled so I can progress through my stones. So anyway I went ahead with this and I think it's OK. I worked it on the 1k, it was kind of noisy at first but after a couple sessions using light to no pressure it quieted down and felt smooth on the hone. Next is the 3k. My only concern is the heel but as I go it'll probably work. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.....
For What its Worth..All the Bevel Work & Pulling things into Line Should All be Done Before You Leave the 1 K Stone..That's Where All the Issues are Sorted Out..The Honing then Begins on the Progression & Not Before.. Billy..
If the warp is just in the edge you should be able to hone past the problem but it its through to the spine you might end up honing the heal and toe on one side and just the belly on the other til there is no blade left. Different issues require different approaches so now you have one more tool in the box as you discern what the blade needs.
I took a closer look at this razor today and checked the spine with a straight edge and sure enough the spine is warped. So now what I wonder? I was thinking of honing it without tape and try to flatten out the spine that way.