April 2017 30 Day Rule/Focus Pix & Discussion

Well, you basically said in three sentences what took me 3 paragraphs.

 

I bet if you used the Asta blades (which just happens to be one of the blades I swore off of I mentioned above) until you can get a consistently good shaves, almost automatically and then swapped back to the Derby, you might find it doesn't take 5 passes any more. You may still like the Astra better, but you'll find the Derby blades work better than you remember.

 

Let me throw out a quick thought as I see it from my experience. When you shave with a shavette, you are simply putting a blade in a very simple blade holder. I find that the blade used then makes very little difference. When you begin to add the components of a somewhat predetermined angle, flex, blade exposure which can determine chatter and stability, then characteristics begin to matter a bit more.

I would venture to say that the more aggressive of a razor, the blade choice becomes less important, because your touch necessarily has to be lighter. One can't simply wale away on himself and then say a blade for being rough.

I have read some blind trials where experienced shavers could not tell which blade they were given to use, despite their original contention that they would be able to.

I think in a blind test situation, I would probably be able to tell the difference between a Derby and a Feather, but likely not between a Derby and a Voskhod or a Feather and a 7:00 Black. I highly doubt I could tell between a Polsilver and a Nacet or Rapira though. To me, they are all too closely made of a blade. I would also bet that in a shavette, I would not be able to tell any of them apart; maybe if they were all new, but most likely not if they had a couple of shaves on them.

I have also not tried any of the more "exotic" blades that Neal has, and do not doubt that some of them shave like their edges were finished with a bastard file. I think it would be more than fair to say that some are certainly produced with better finishes and quality control.

 

Meanwhile, here in Saskatchewan, two provinces over from you, it snowed last night. We are enjoying a White Easter. And nobody's going golfing here today unless they like slush-filled shoes and hunting for a white golf ball in an acre of white field...

 

What I would say though is that some razors are actually crap. I have seen pics of razors whose caps leave a blade so wavy that I would rather shave with the popsicle razor. Or so much blade exposure that I can see the blade vibrating from my Ipad. I think this is the exception not the rule maybe, but some of them are razors I wouldn't want to use.

 

Eventually, i will certainly become better. However, getting better still doesn't solve the issue about blades being equal or not. Like i said, a double blind trial would answer that. I used Astra after 4 shaves with Derby. Derby were OK shaves. Astra was BBS. Then i used Shark SS. BBS above jawline, DFS below jawline. Why did i never get a DFS with Derby? How much of a technique one must develop to get BBS just from any blade, all the time, with the same effort? That's the big question. Because, if you need 3 repasses with Derby and 1 with Astra to have the same result, you are compensating for an inferior blade. The end result could be the same, but you put more effort. Which to me, doesn't make equal the blades. Anyway, time will tell.

What would interest me more, would be not whether one is able to tell the blade, but whether he can have BBS with the same 3 passes and no repasses. Because if you pass 5 times from the same area to get BBS, it means the blade is inferior and you are compensating. That would be the ultimate test. I don't think it's only about gear either. The type of skin also means different hair types. It's not all the same when cutting. For example, trust me, i can tell the difference between Derby and Astra SP and between Derby and Shark. Easily. The Derby is simply less sharp than Astra. By far. The Shark is more noisy when cutting and sharper than Derby. Between Astra and Shark i would have problems to guess. But this doesn't change that i can't shave with the same ease with them and they are both distant from Derby. Derby is very forgiving, i can do crazy manouvers on my face with it, but it has problem cutting hair.

 

In sports, the best atheletes with the best training tend to win over time regardless of whose equipment they use. I don't care what equipment you give an experienced shaver, it won't take him/her 5 passes to get a good shave.

 

But why then would some prefer Derby blades to Astra? There is a definite YMMV factor going on here, and I don't disagree with that. I woukd however say that you can't definitely state a blade doesn't work too well until you have truly mastered technique. When new, your technique varies more shave to shave than you think. That is why the 30 Day Rule was recommended. You provide your own variability with your technique. You don't want to complicate it with changing equipment. Once your technique is set, then changing equipment becomes easier.

Just like in golf. If I get up and hit a Calloway ball 300 yards straight down the middle of a fairway on one hole, but try then try a Pro V1 the next and shank it, would I be correct in saying the Pro V1 is inferior to the Calloway?

 

Ok, let's put it otherwise. Let's say Mantic99 and Bama Samurai are both given a Weishi and one is given Derby and the other is given a Feather. And are asked to perform the same 3 canonical passes (with no repass. Once the lather is gone from an area, you don't return). Will they both get BBS? That would be an interest test.

 

Well we need to get the best of the best to come to St. Louis for a shave off. We can take in a Cards game, spend a week shaving and have some fun!

I hear what you're saying. And I would agree that blades are different. However, from my own experience of trying way more than a lot of people do, in the end it's how I use the tools that makes a bigger difference. As far as technique being universal - yes and no. There are some basic guidelines/principles. The 30 degree/no pressure thing is probably one of the best known but it doesn't always apply. Some blades may require a bit of pressure, sometimes the razor may work better at 25 degrees, or 35 degrees or whatever. The idea is that there is a universal starting point - 30 degree/no pressure that can then be adjusted once we learn how to use the tools properly to accommodate the variances in blade/razor choice etc. It's the ability to start from a standard and instantly improvise to the best possible configuration that matters most. Same with a straight razor. Not every straight shaves the same. You have to be able to adjust angle, pressure, etc. to make the razor currently in your hand produce the best possible shave.

Pain sticks also demonstrate this. From the DX head to the SS head, the difference in that lip on the SS creates the need to change angle ever so slightly to maximize the result. Again, the "perfect technique" is not a specific set of degrees etc., but rather the ability to adjust the tool to its maximum performance.

As I said in my earlier post there are blades that I definitely prefer. I find them to be smoother, a bit more effective, or easier to use. Perhaps I've just used them more than the rest so my response to them is more instant. And, perhaps there is something about the coating, bevel, etc. that just works better for me too. When I say blades don't matter I don't mean that it means absolutely nothing. Just that with experience you can minimize the differences and challenges and turn most of them into quite nice shaves. And yes, there are those blades that will never work. I can list a number of those that just make me cringe.

 

Give me a shavette and yes, the blade makes no difference. I can get the same shave in three passes. With the Weishi no. That razor is limiting the usefulness of the blade; castrating it. That is why I am saying the razor does play a part. The more aggressive you get, the blade makes less of a difference.

 

If you want a speculative guess, for the same reason why a dermatologist, always determines skin type before prescribing a therapy. Because the skin type affects many things. Oily skin glides easier. Softer hair can be cut easier with duller blade (compared to tough hair). Dry skin likes smoother blade more, to compensate for the dryness. For the opposite reason, in a local forum i saw protests against the Cella, for being "way too slippery" from oily skin wet shavers, who complained that every time they use Cella, they have to make more repasses, than when they use a non tallow based soap. Because tallow, gives "too much" cushion to an oily skin that makes the blade slip instead of cutting. Tougher hair, will be easier cut when a sharper blade, but the sharper blade on a more sensitive, dry skin, can scratch and cause more irritation. On the opposite side of the spectrum, a dull blade that tugs while cutting can also cause irritation.

 

April 16, 2017- Happy Easter

Razor: F2 Gillette 195 Adjustable (4)
Blade: GSB (1)
Brush: Cremo by Vie-Long
Cream: KMF fragrance-free
Post: Alum, Listerine, Witch Hazel

I've been a bit lazy and skipped one report and a shave. Friday was a nice DFS from the pre-War Tech and a well-used 7 O'Clock Sharpedge while yesterday was a no-shave day.

For today's shave, I decided to go with the GSB. Usually this is a good blade for me but last time... not so much. In retrospect, I think the issue may be with the razor, a post-War British Tech with an Aluminum base plate. So far, I've not been impressed with it and I suspect it is actually somehow damaging the blade as moving a blade from it to another razor also produces a bad result. I have a post-War US Tech coming and hope to be able to compare them and figure this out.

As for today's shave... two passes and a bit of touchup to an effective BBS.

 

For the record, I'd hook both into the rough. So really, no difference. But yes, that speaks to my technique issues with golf. And there is a YMMV factor to blades at some level. Why do I prefer Voskhod? They feel the best to me, shave the best and quickest and with the least amount of problems. I've heard others say that Voskhod are dull and draggy and horrible. That could also be the difference in their beard, skin type/condition etc. I think trying to narrow the whole blade thing down to a scientific conclusion is impossible given the variances between people. As you say, though, not complicating the learning curve of traditional shaving by changing equipment will shorten the learning curve and help open doors to new equipment faster down the line. Well put.

 

There is always one variable that can't be removed, though, that will make it YMMV to at least some extent. The people. Nobody is exactly the same in beard type/density, skin condition - oily, dry, in between etc. All of that can make a difference too. We can only get to a certain point of "scientific certainty" until it breaks down because people are people.

 

Ah! This answers to one of my questions. About whether it's a technique which works with anything or whether you have to use a different technique according to the gear. That's interesting to know and more interesting is the other question of "at this point, how easy is to make this technique" (because, if it's like becoming Formula 1 driver, i can see why many people can't arrive there). And the other interesting part, would be the double blind test. Because if you don't know what blade it's inside, will your technique work immediately or not? That would interesting.

 

I would honestly bet that yes, both shaves will end up with a BBS if they chose. I can tell you that I am not as experienced as either shaver, but I have no doubt I could get a BBS from just about any blade made. And, the shave would be comfortable. I will take Neil's word for it on some of the Toothless Tiger blades he has tried, so these are excluded from my statements.

 

Ah! I agree! But what is the element that is affected by skin and beard? For me, the only element that gets into contact with them: the blade's effectiveness. Because, the skin and beard, can't affect the technique. If one has excellent technique, he sure can work his beard and skin with no problem.

One could do also the following. Give them blindly a Derby and then a Gilette 7 O'clock and see if they will have equally BBS on 3 passes. Same beard, same skin, same technique. Only variable the blade.

 

There are outside things that can change skin/beard. But the genetic differences that occur can still change things drastically. Still, yes, learning how to shave with your specific characteristics can solve it and should equalize things more.

 

Just for the record, i am not trying to be neither an arrogant newbie nor rude. It's just that i have been taught to be careful about personal bias, because people can believe anything they want. It has been verified that even a scientist that makes an experiment, if he expects a certain result, he is capable of leading the experiment towards the desired result. Or someone can interpret the result towards his expectations. Which is why the "double blind trials" were invented. Not to speak of the placebo and nocebo effect (you give a patient a supposed drug, which is sugar pill and he says he was cured or you give him a supposed drug that in reality is sugar pill and you tell him that unfortunately there are high chances he will experience sideeffects such as stomach ache or diarrhea and he runs to the bathroom).