Well *I* Screwed Up...

Discussion in 'Straight Razors' started by Michael_W, Jan 22, 2018.

  1. Michael_W

    Michael_W Well-Known Member

    I should have known better than to leave my recently-arrived Wusthof on the sink without first making sure it was dried. This evening I noticed rust patches forming on the metal, so I wiped off as much as I could with a cleaning cloth and proceeded to coat it with mineral oil. But now the rusting is begun and so I need to get it in for restoration ASAP. Who's got good rates for straight razor restoration?
     
    Keithmax likes this.
  2. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    A little sanding wit 1500 grit wet/dry should bring it back. Use water or wd-40 for lubrication.
     
  3. Michael_W

    Michael_W Well-Known Member

    Yeah, I don't have that or I'd be glad to do it. My next paycheck's deposit date is up in the air with the partial government shutdown here in the states screwing things up for public employees.
     
    Billyfergie likes this.
  4. PickledNorthern

    PickledNorthern Fabulous, the unicorn

    Just keep the oil on it til you can hit the hardware store. $5 worth of sandpaper and WD will have you fixed up. Way cheaper than sending it out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  5. RezDog

    RezDog Well-Known Member

    I’m a big fan of WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. Be very careful around the edge on a shave ready razor when doing any cleaning, for the obvious reason of your finger safety but edges are very delicate and you can ruin one in a blink of an eye. Even something as simple as a little polish on a paper towel and it’s done.
     
  6. Edison Carter

    Edison Carter Well-Known Member

    I would like to suggest Bar Keepers Friend. I have used it to clear rust from a high carbon kitchen knife. It's a metal polish that can be found with abrasive cleansers like comet and ajax.
     
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  7. Michael_W

    Michael_W Well-Known Member

    Ooh, okay. I just read news that the shutdown is temporarily halted, so I hope to be paid on time this week. If I am, then I'll certainly pick some of that stuff up. I might also be able to track down a tube of Metal-Glo, which I've used to polish up my metals.
     
    Keithmax likes this.
  8. DaltonGang

    DaltonGang Ol' Itchy Whiskers

    All very good suggestions. I have always had good luck with Flitz Metal Polish.
    From now on, get into the habit of keeping your razors out of the bathroom. I also wipe mine down with mineral oil, after each use. The humid Houston environment is hard on straight razors.
     
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  9. Michael_W

    Michael_W Well-Known Member

    Normally I don't leave such things in the bathroom, but my roommate keeps the heat in the bathroom high enough that things dry out quickly. Oh but then the weather warmed up yesterday and it began raining, driving up the humidity and the forcing radiator temp down.
     
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  10. urrlord

    urrlord Well-Known Member

    try some regular old tooth paste ,not the gel type to remove the rust.Or get a barbicide type dip cleaner and dip the razor after each use...you can also buy some olive oil hair spray and give it a spray after each use.
     
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  11. Rugger007

    Rugger007 Active Member

    MAAS metal polish should clean it right up,follow that with a light coat of RenWax and you will never have an issue again. The RenWax is absolutely amazing and far cleaner than oils.
     
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  12. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    I'd use something besides Barkeeper's friend. It's great stuff but it contains oxalic acid, and if you don't get it off quickly and completely, it might damage carbon steel. I also note that the label only mentions stainless steel, not carbon steel.

    Always, always know what you're putting on carbon steel and there's no safe acid that I know of. One fellow left his razor in Coke (phosphoric acid) to 'clean' it and forgot, a couple of hours later the blade is black. Also, never any chlorine or chlorides on steel, it chelates or chemically 'grabs' iron, not a good thing for your razor. But that's why bleach works so well removing iron stains in sinks and such.

    Always read the label, no acids and no chlorine/chlorides especially on carbon steel.

    Cheers, Steve
     
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  13. Billyfergie

    Billyfergie The Scottish Ninja

  14. Bookworm

    Bookworm Well-Known Member

    So, he parkerized the finish of his razor. I'd think that could be pretty cool if you were aiming for it. Glinting silver edge, and black/grey blade.
     
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  15. Michael_W

    Michael_W Well-Known Member

    I'll get a fresh tube of Metal-Glo. I've used it in past to clean carbon steel replicas and it's done a good job. I'll also be sure to keep my straight razor coated in mineral oil when not in use, and properly dry it after shaving. Thanks!
     
    Spyder likes this.
  16. Kilgore Trout

    Kilgore Trout The Smart Bunny

    How did you know my epitaph?
     
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  17. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    Absolutely, but he wasn't lol. Also you'd probably need to re-set the bevel since the apex of the bevel is now oxidized.

    Dovo makes a model that's Parkerized I believe, and many vintage razors had blued/Parkerized tangs, probably to help prevent corrosion when folks got water into the pivot which you should never do, because you should not be manipulating a straight razor with wet/soapy fingers. Always dry fingers, dry tang. If you get the tang or your fingers wet, dry them off with your handy barber's towel. JMO.

    Cheers, Steve
     
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  18. Bookworm

    Bookworm Well-Known Member

    Shoulda, woulda, coulda. Considering that you're _shaving_, and that usually involves soap - which is wet - then it's almost inevitable that liquid will end up at the pivot point. Parkerizing and bluing are excellent things to do. Well, either that, or make the razor from bronze :)
     
  19. Steve56

    Steve56 Hone Hoarder

    I would have to disagree with the water in the pivot part. Since re-learning straight shaving around a decade ago, I think that I've gotten water in the pivot maybe once. You can do it, but it's like everything else with straights, honing stropping, etc, you just have to learn it. That said, a friend said that he had his razor 'mechanic' on speed dial because he cannot keep water out of the pivot, so there maybe is something different from me. And an alcohol rinse will take care of the water.

    That said, I have gotten water in the pivot a couple of times while honing a straight, but still a blue moon event. Why I'm a little worse about it honing I haven't a clue!

    A good tip for those that have the water in the pivot problem is bicycle chain wax. It isn't slippery, it displaces water, and if it gets on the tang just wipe it off, it won't creep out of the pivot like oil.

    Cheers, Steve
     
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  20. Spyder

    Spyder Well-Known Member

    I hardly ever get water there either. I use running water and rinse the blade point down, then wipe the blade on the linen towel between passes. I fold a piece of tp diagonally and wipe thoroughly between the scales. The tp always is dry, so it shows I’m keeping water out. Keep em dried and oiled.

    The bike chain wax, reminded me of Boshield T9, which is excellent for keeping bike chains lubed, rust free, and clean. Thanks for that tip, Steve!
     
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