Oh Aye Forgot..Goin Senile..I Have been Fortunate Enough to Shave with a Number of these Kinda Hollow Ground Blades from the Factory..Every One of Em was "Bevel Set...Angle = To Blade Flat on the Hone"..That is Enough Empirical Evidence for Me & the End Result of Course..

Billy..

I will try it your way next time.

Two razors for @Jayaruh .

J.R.Torrey Razor Co.
Where do I start. This was a razor after my own heart. It was rusty, and crusty, but, aside from several he sent, it was the second best of the lot. I like a challenge, so, I did not give up. I had to sand sand sand, and polish galore. I didnt know the make of the razor, until I got through the rust. I even bled over it(My wife distracted me), it was my fault.. I then had to polish out the scales. So, after the acceptable prettifying, and as much as could be done, I took it to the stones. Under the 60x loupe, things looked bad. There were a couple of corrosion pits, on the bevel, about 1/2 inch from the toe. I had to remove about 1 1/2 of the bevel, to get to clean metal. There is still pitting almost at the edge of the bevel, but at least its not effecting the very edge, just very near.
I started with one one layer of tape, on the spine. The 220 grit Norton brought up a new bevel, fast, followed by the 100 grit Norton. Next, the King 1k(I will say its more like a 2k). Then, a Chinese 3k/8k. The tape was changed and I hit the Welsh Slate Stones, 8k, 12k, 15k. Finally the Arkansas Surgical black, Progression stone really made it sing. Some laps on the Linen and leather, and it was ready to go.



J.A.Henckels #28
This one just needed a light polishing of the blade and scales, but not much, to make it look nice. .
The honing was basically the same as above, without the bevel problems, and I went straight to the 1000 grit Norton. Excellent razor, and very well made.

Norvell-Shapleigh HDWE Co. "SNAP" #35. St Louis Germany.

The last razor of the day, was an ebay special, for $11.99. But, it looked like it had little hone wear, and it had potential. Well, I almost had a cow, when I saw a crack, about 1/4 inch from the toe, the entire depth of the bevel. Well I was able to massage that out, and polish it up, after some light sanding.
The honing was straight forward. Norton 220 grit/1000 grit. Then Chinese 3k/8k. Welsh Slate Stones 8k, 12k, 15k. Finally the Arkie Surgical Black Progression Stone. Oh, and the linen and leather. Hair popping all the way down the edge.

Today's restores:

Dubl Duck SatinEdge
This one had a frown that needed to be worked out, on the heel, as well as a chippy toe end. All came out well, in the end. It was a full on restore, but I've had worse. I did re-blue the tang, as was original on this razor.
Easy progression, as I've done before. This one is a serious Hanging Hair Popper.



Dubl Duck No1
This one had corrosion on the bevel, at the heel, and needed a lot of TLC, from head to toe. Just some polishing, and some Hone work, made it as sharp as the other Ducky. The tang was also re-blued.



Landers Frary & Clark. Warranted ."Universal".

Full on nasty razor, from the beginning. Chips, and corrosion along the entire bevel. I had to grind down about half the bevel to get to good steel. This ones tang was blued, as it was original too.
After that, it was easy going with the hones. It took a very sharp edge.

Sometimes I just say "Yeah sure I'll try it"

Guy asks "Hey Glen can you PLEASE try and Sharpen my Barber Shears"

I says "Never done any before"

He says "Sending you a razor and some shears give it a try"


I watch some Vids On Youtube call the Gal that used to cut my hair in CO and shoot I am am expert hehehehe

Actually I messed around wit the one "Practice" set he sent me and once I had it passing the tests I was told about I did the two good sets
Interesting a challenging for a SR guy

Now the SR was a bear, one of those Douglas Cutlery "Customs" that had the worst grinds out there, Finally got it dialed in and came up with a pretty even bevel







Hone on Gents

Yeh, I have had some "Even Bevels" that look like that too. Wonky blades make it look funny on the photos, with some parts of the bevel larger than the other. But, in they end, it doesnt matter, the whiskers cant tell.

Tried something different for me... bevel set to finish with just a Coticule. I acquired this Otto Busch World Master 194 and it had a slight frown about a third of the way back from the toe. I have this thin vintage Coti so I thought to try my hand at sharpening it as-is.
I started on the BBW side because I love purple... probably not needed but I actually enjoy working this side of this stone. My slurry stone pictured is harder than either side of this stone so I get base slurry.

Got the bevel set on this side with 2 rounds of dilution and then flipped it over to continue refining.

3 rounds of generating slurry and diluting to water. Overkill? Probably. Ugly edge? Sort of.

I don’t really shave off this one so I took an “extra extra fine” bout that I do enjoy the edge off of and headed to the sink. No slurry, just pooling some water, doing 3 swooping passes, then more water. Just repeated this almost to a meditative state. Never done this before and I was in there for quite a while.

Not sure if this is repeatable but the shave was very comfortable. .
Enjoy your shave!
Tom.

A German touch-up

A nice evening with my Okudo & a Gebr. Weyersberg...

Went synthetic for the bevel with Naniwa 1k and Shapton 4k. Then went Tenjou and Mejiro Mikawa Nagura before finishing with Nakayama tomo nagura. Got into the habit of going Mejiro if I use the 8k, but I throw in the Tenjou if I transition straight from the 4k.
Will see how we did in a bit .

Who says you can't get a smooth edge from a synthetic. I nick the edge on this razor putting it back in it stand. It didn't look like any damage was done but I did not want to take any chances. Shapton SS 8k, 12k then Gokyumo 20k followed by CrOx and 50k diamond paste. Sharp and smooth.

Yep, a re-scaled Gold Dollar that I use for travel and testing. I'm testing the tomo nagura to see how it does with the karasu, a very hard and fine stone. Shave maybe tomorrow.

Cheers, Steve

Keithmax,

you lost me, crox after a synthetic makes the edge smoother, but the diamand?

I cleaned a bartman, light grinding and polish, then to the ozuko 5+, yae botan, botan, tenyou, mejiro, koma, and finished on tomonagara slurry.
Stropped on my arm, and that is smooth!

I was surprised to but I tend to get very smooth edges off the Gokuymo 20k and Shapton glass without the diamond and just finishing with CrOx.

Oh boy

they all look like fun except that Shefworks in the horn scales (4th from the left) that edge is DULL

Something we don't do that very often in the Netherlands I guess?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G920F met Tapatalk

I am from belgium

For me diamond is for honing tools

Got these a Couple of Days Ago..A Tailor & Witness Sheffield 6/8th & a Made in the USA Top Flight 7/8th by Burrell Cutlery Co. Ellicottville, N.Y...The Top Flight has Custom Scales..The Blade is Mint & Scales Fit it to a Tea..

Both Honed on a Naniwa Super Stone Progression...The Top Flight was Finished on My 16 K Plus Escher Thuri..The Sheffield Finished on My Black Arkie..I Took the Sheffield Off the Arkie at the 16 K Mark...Sheffield Hollow Grinds Wont Take Anything Like the 20 K Potential of the Arkie..I Find 16 K to be Optimal for Hollow Ground Sheffield's..

I Am Tempted to Keep the Sheffield..Both Took Sweet Sweet Edges..

Billy..

You have mentioned finishing Sheffields at a lower grit in a couple of posts. Can you elaborate a little please? What happens if you try to push them further?